Heat pump water heater update

[Richard S.]

This is similar to the one I got. I installed it horizontally. There is two screens on the inlets so it's easy to dissemble to clean them.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Wilkins-3-4-in-ZW1017 ... /311811152

Terrible picture but it's the best my phone will do in the low light condition. Cold is coming in from the right. T to supply the tank and the valve. Hot side is on the backside.

[nut]

Thanks. I expect one more tank replacement in my lifetime. I think that's the way I'll go. A lot less initial costs and a lot less complicated

[Richard S.]

Thanks. I expect one more tank replacement in my lifetime. I think that's the way I'll go. A lot less initial costs and a lot less complicated

Double post!

[nut]

Well that makes me qualified for President.

[BigBarney]

I have an eighty gallon Rheem tank ... It uses about 0.5 kw...

So it adds about 1.5 Kw of heat at about a 3 cop...

So that reduces your cost by 3 ... Than $0.15 Kwhr costs $0.05 ...

I also have a GE heat pump water heater that heats some of my house...

I run it during peak time to reduce the cost...So an effective $0.04 on peak...

I run the tank at 140 degrees to run my baseboard heat...

Getting a air to water heat pump next year to be able to run at peak...

Your utility probably offer some rebate on tanks here I get $500.00 off...

BigBarney

[Hoytman]

Any chance of a better picture of that mixing valve in place?

Explain how this valve works again, please.

I currently have a 30 year old 40 gallons electric tank.

Our electric service is through a co-op and it’s about $.21 kW…I think. It’s higher than what many of you pay, by far. The co-op offers a nice 60 gallon insulated tank that is way more efficient, but my problem is a big one. My water heater is in what used to be a hallway, but a 1976 remodel of the home made its location a closet…and as such my 40 gallon water heater takes up all the space so the door can just close and that is it. No chance for relocating it other than loving it across the breezeway and into an uninsulated garage, way too much work to relocate it there.

I’m pretty certain the bottom element has been shot for several years because of lime build-up. I dread hauling that water heater out, but as it stands now the top element just barely supplies us with enough hot water for 3 showers and washing clothes, but we have time washing clothes when no showers are needed.

If a $200+ mixing valve would benefit us by allowing us another 20 gallons we’d appreciate it. Our water softener hasn’t worked since before my grandpa passed away before we moved in.

[nut]

Any chance of a better picture of that mixing valve in place?

Explain how this valve works again, please.

I currently have a 30 year old 40 gallons electric tank.

Our electric service is through a co-op and it’s about $.21 kW…I think. It’s higher than what many of you pay, by far. The co-op offers a nice 60 gallon insulated tank that is way more efficient, but my problem is a big one. My water heater is in what used to be a hallway, but a 1976 remodel of the home made its location a closet…and as such my 40 gallon water heater takes up all the space so the door can just close and that is it. No chance for relocating it other than loving it across the breezeway and into an uninsulated garage, way too much work to relocate it there.
Sounds like you need a new WH. All the mixing valve does is allow you to turn up your WH temperature and then mix it with cold water to bring the temperature back down to usable levels. If your heater can't produce higher temperatures a mixing valve isn't going to help.

I’m pretty certain the bottom element has been shot for several years because of lime build-up. I dread hauling that water heater out, but as it stands now the top element just barely supplies us with enough hot water for 3 showers and washing clothes, but we have time washing clothes when no showers are needed.

If a $200+ mixing valve would benefit us by allowing us another 20 gallons we’d appreciate it. Our water softener hasn’t worked since before my grandpa passed away before we moved in.

Sounds like you need a new WH. All the mixing valve does is allow you to turn up your WH temperature and then mix it with cold water to bring the temperature back down to usable levels. If your heater can't produce higher temperatures a mixing valve isn't going to help.

[Rob R.]

Agreed. Not trying to spend your $$, but a new water heater with a mixing valve is the way to go.

[Richard S.]

Explain how this valve works again, please.

It's very simple, you turn the water heater up to max. This is something you can do with or without the valve but it's a dangerous situation without the valve because the water temp can be 150 degrees plus.

There is two inlets on the valve and one outlet. The cold water line going to the tank goes to both the valve and the tank. The hot water from the tank goes to another inlet on the valve. There is dial on the valve, it's preset to 120 degrees.

It mixes the hot water and cold to bring the temperature down to 120 degrees so it's safe, You're increasing the volume of hot water because you are adding cold water to it. The valve I have has dial on it so you can make it colder than 120. You can also make it hotter than 120 but there is factory installed stop that needs to be removed behind the dial. The water is as hot as I can stand in shower so no reason to fiddle with it.

Another benefit I noticed is it's always a consistent temp. There is no minor variation between cycles of the tank.

I currently have a 30 year old 40 gallons electric tank.

At 30 years if it were me I'd get a new tank. If you have the same luck as me it's going to break the day after you install the valve.
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If a $200+ mixing valve would benefit us by allowing us another 20 gallons we’d appreciate it.

The one I purchased was around $140 and that was right at the plumbing store.

[Hoytman]

Sounds like you need a new WH. All the mixing valve does is allow you to turn up your WH temperature and then mix it with cold water to bring the temperature back down to usable levels. If your heater can't produce higher temperatures a mixing valve isn't going to help.

I haven’t checked to see if I can turn it up. I imagine it’s like all the others I’ve messed with that could be turned up. If not, just a matter of cleaning out the tank, replacing elements and thermostats and setting the temperature. I’m certain there is no mixing valve on our tank, or lines.

[Rob R.]

I haven’t checked to see if I can turn it up. I imagine it’s like all the others I’ve messed with that could be turned up. If not, just a matter of cleaning out the tank, replacing elements and thermostats and setting the temperature. I’m certain there is no mixing valve on our tank, or lines.

A tank that old can start leaking if you look at it funny. My recommendation is to not spend any money on it. The new water heaters are very well insulated compared to the old ones.

[Hoytman]

At 30 years if it were me I'd get a new tank. If you have the same luck as me it's going to break the day after you install the valve.

Sounds like our luck is similar. The problem was that in our house we sold, I installed a new tank about a year prior to selling the house and it went bad before putting the house for sale so I replaced it again. House sold and the new owner also replaced that water heater within a year…and I bought what I thought were good units based on recommendations from my plumber friend…who said none of them were really made as well as the old units were.

So I’m not against cleaning out my current old unit I have and replacing the anode, safety valve, elements, and thermostats. Of course, depending how well I can get it clean. I have some homemade attachments I made for my shop-vac that work real well. It’s a lot of headache though.

[Hoytman]

A tank that old can start leaking if you look at it funny. My recommendation is to not spend any money on it. The new water heaters are very well insulated compared to the old ones.

True on all points.

[nut]

Are you saying the tanks leaked that shortly? If so you must have some bad luck or super corrosive water there. I'd be surprised if you can get the anode out after being in for so many years without twisting the fitting. Maybe.

[Rob R.]

Sounds like our luck is similar. The problem was that in our house we sold, I installed a new tank about a year prior to selling the house and it went bad before putting the house for sale so I replaced it again. House sold and the new owner also replaced that water heater within a year…and I bought what I thought were good units based on recommendations from my plumber friend…who said none of them were really made as well as the old units were.

So I’m not against cleaning out my current old unit I have and replacing the anode, safety valve, elements, and thermostats. Of course, depending how well I can get it clean. I have some homemade attachments I made for my shop-vac that work real well. It’s a lot of headache though.

If you had multiple water heaters fail in short succession, there is a different problem to solve.