Windy Days Question
- oliver power
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Looks to me like it's running just as it should. You want the stove to produce a little more heat when it's windy.
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Wouldn't that be dependent on OAT? And running at triple the manufacturer recommendation?oliver power wrote: ↑Mon. Feb. 26, 2024 9:49 pm Looks to me like it's running just as it should. You want the stove to produce a little more heat when it's windy.
- Sunny Boy
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One way to overcome, .. or at least help limit, windy conditions is to have the stove produce more heat and send that more heat up the chimney to create a stronger draft that will not be as susceptible to wind fluctuations.waytomany?s wrote: ↑Tue. Feb. 27, 2024 9:06 am Wouldn't that be dependent on OAT? And running at triple the manufacturer recommendation?
Paul
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How much more? It just seems running .15 is significant.
- Sunny Boy
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Which stove and which chimney system ? Each is unique.waytomany?s wrote: ↑Tue. Feb. 27, 2024 6:58 pm How much more? It just seems running .15 is significant.
My range can run at much lower mano readings and pipe temps in warmer weather than my base heater can. The shallower firebed of the range breathes easier in warm weather than the twice as deep base heater 's firepot. And both are on very tall, well-drafting brick chimneys built for coal stoves of three different types.
Just look at the draft recommendations of some of the modern stove makers. Both my stoves would be glowing red at such high mano readings that some manufacturers call for a baro to be set at. But on warm windy conditions the draft is not as strong, so they don't get as hot when I bump up the mano. Same damper settings in very cold weather and they glow red.
Every stove situation varies, and each operator has to find what works no matter what the mano numbers look like.
Paul
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If I let my 354 run at -.03 … OR … if I allowed the wind to pull that hard on the chimney and stove then there’s no way we could stay in this house with this large stove. Wouldn’t happen! We’d have every window in the house open 6” and still couldn’t dissipate all the heat coming off of the stove.
That why I run it as low as I do at -.005 to -.015 most of the time, occasionally -.02”WC when it’s really cold out.
That on an inside the home masonry chimney that is about 14-15 feet total from top of chimney to fire box floor…basically it’s only 10ft from thimble to top of chimney.
That why I run it as low as I do at -.005 to -.015 most of the time, occasionally -.02”WC when it’s really cold out.
That on an inside the home masonry chimney that is about 14-15 feet total from top of chimney to fire box floor…basically it’s only 10ft from thimble to top of chimney.
- Sunny Boy
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It got so warm that I let the base heater go out yesterday. With temps up in the 50's the range can easily keep the chill off the house, while saving on very expensive pro-pain to do all the cooking.
However, with warm and windy weather like this I opened the MPD a bit more and shut the damper for the water reservoir end (that someone said no one should have ).
That does two things. It lets the reservoir housing shield the right end of the range and send that heat to the chimney to strengthen the draft to deal with the warm and windy weather. And it stops the shedding of heat into the house that the right end of the range would do without the reservoir.
That added bit of draft strengthening makes dealing with windy, and/or, warm days not a problem. But with the larger base heater, like with your stove it would run hotter by adding more draft to deal with windy weather.
Each stove set up is unique in how to best set the dampers to deal with big changes in the weather and this is a good time of year to experiment on how to do that.
Paul
However, with warm and windy weather like this I opened the MPD a bit more and shut the damper for the water reservoir end (that someone said no one should have ).
That does two things. It lets the reservoir housing shield the right end of the range and send that heat to the chimney to strengthen the draft to deal with the warm and windy weather. And it stops the shedding of heat into the house that the right end of the range would do without the reservoir.
That added bit of draft strengthening makes dealing with windy, and/or, warm days not a problem. But with the larger base heater, like with your stove it would run hotter by adding more draft to deal with windy weather.
Each stove set up is unique in how to best set the dampers to deal with big changes in the weather and this is a good time of year to experiment on how to do that.
Paul
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In my mind a high chimney draft doesn't really matter much of it can't pull* unregulated air thru the stove to carry heat out.
Pull isn't the proper terminology since a vacuum can't pull. Higher pressure is always "pushed" to a lower pressure.
Pull isn't the proper terminology since a vacuum can't pull. Higher pressure is always "pushed" to a lower pressure.
- warminmn
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Thats when you find out if your stove has leaks, if it runs too hot. You can stick your finger on the end of a hose and suck on the other end all day long until your blue in the face. The pressure would be good but nothing has been drawn in.
Im not taking away from the value of baro's in near constant high draft or varying draft situations but in this one I just didnt see the need. I use them myself for that reason.
Im not taking away from the value of baro's in near constant high draft or varying draft situations but in this one I just didnt see the need. I use them myself for that reason.
- oliver power
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Good point warminmn. Could be a leaky stove. I live up on a windy hill as well. The wind has been vicious this year. If set right, my HITZER stoves have always handled the wind just fine with no dampers what so ever. I just came in from the shop. The wind is really cranking. I did my daily tending of the 254. With the ash pan door open, the draft was very strong. After adding coal, I closed the ash pan door, and pushed the damper rod in. The stove settled back down to it's usual 400*,warminmn wrote: ↑Wed. Feb. 28, 2024 5:15 pm Thats when you find out if your stove has leaks, if it runs too hot. You can stick your finger on the end of a hose and suck on the other end all day long until your blue in the face. The pressure would be good but nothing has been drawn in.
Im not taking away from the value of baro's in near constant high draft or varying draft situations but in this one I just didnt see the need. I use them myself for that reason.
In my earlier reply, I was thinking back to the old days. When the wind blew hard, you'd want it sipping a little harder on the wood fire (manual damper) (Old farmhouse).
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If that's the case, and heat increases/or temp on stove goes up along with an increase in Mano reading, does that mean a leak below grate level? My stove is the same, more wind, higher draft. But I'm using a baro. OP is not. I assume wind does the same as a greater temperature differential, increasing the draft. Am I seeing it incorrectly?
- Sunny Boy
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The wind is really gusting hard here now. The mano is bouncing wildly up and down.
However, it is not making much difference to the range because the firebed cannot react quickly to draft pressure changes like the mano can. The firebed causes a certain amount of resistance to air flow and air speed changes that the mano does not have.
So, the mano looks scary wild, but the fire bed is just acting ho-hum.
Paul
However, it is not making much difference to the range because the firebed cannot react quickly to draft pressure changes like the mano can. The firebed causes a certain amount of resistance to air flow and air speed changes that the mano does not have.
So, the mano looks scary wild, but the fire bed is just acting ho-hum.
Paul