Another Glenwood #6?

[tmbrddl]

I purchased this today and got what I think was a very good buy. The stove is complete and in fantastic shape with one possible exception. I hope it's not a fatal flaw. I'm not sure of the proper name but I think I've heard it referred to as a gas or fire ring. This one appears to be broken if you can make it out in the pic. Hoping someone here can educate me and offer their opinion.

[Sunny Boy]

Nice find, T.

The gas ring is not a one-piece ring. It is made of four sections. Tough to tell from the pictures, but you may be seeing the butt-joints at the ends of the sections.

Paul

[tmbrddl]

If you look closely at the second pic from the top, I think you can make out what looks to me to be a break in the metal, Paul. How critical would that be if this is the case?

[Sunny Boy]

The gas ring is not very critical. It just allows incoming air from below the loading door to be channeled around and distributed out just above the fire bed to give more complete coal gas burning. As long as the pieces stay in place, they are ok.

If you remove the screws from the front section under the loading door the rest can be removed. The butt joints interlock so only the front piece needs screws to hold all four sections in place, Clean them and the barrel at the top of the firebricks. Reinstall them using a stove seam sealer on the joints like Hercules brand from Lowes.

If you have broken sections, member Wilson Mull (screen name wilsonswoodstoves) sells replacement gas rings.

Wilson Mull 508-763-8911.

Paul

[tmbrddl]

Thank you so much. Very encouraged. I'll keep you posted.

[tmbrddl]

Hey, Paul. I tried calling the number you listed for Wilson and got a recording saying the number was no longer in service. Is there another number I can try?

[Sunny Boy]

P

Hey, Paul. I tried calling the number you listed for Wilson and got a recording saying the number was no longer in service. Is there another number I can try?

Sorry, that's the only number I have for Wilson.

You can try another member that restores stoves and may have #6 gas ring parts. It's Dana LaPan.

https://www.lapansantiquestoves.com/

Paul

[nepacoal]

This number shows up in a recent post from June and matches a number found googling his name...

Wilson Mull - wilsonswoodstoves. 508-763-8941

[Sunny Boy]

This number shows up in a recent post from June and matches a number found googling his name...

Wilson Mull - wilsonswoodstoves. 508-763-8941

Thanks NC. Yup, that's the number. Cleaned my glasses and rechecked my phone. I screwed up and typed the 4 as a 1.

Paul

[tmbrddl]

Thank you, guys. Appreciate it. I'll keep you posted.

[tmbrddl]

Thanks for your help, folks. I spoke with Wilson a short time ago and he has just what I need. Much appreciated.

[tmbrddl]

Another question regarding bringing this stove back to life. Even though it appears to be in great shape, and it is, I want to tear it down and give it a good going over.

My question is about gasket material and bolts. What type of gasket material should I use and where do I find the bolts.

Does anyone make restoration bolts that closely resemble the originals and does anyone know the sizes and approximate quantity needed?

[Hoytman]

The gas ring is not very critical. It just allows incoming air from below the loading door to be channeled around and distributed out just above the fire bed to give more complete coal gas burning.
Paul

Paul, I believe I just had a Eureka moment with regard to the above highlighted comments and how I can apply the same principle to my Hitzer 354 double door with air spinners in the door. Bingo! Super heated “adjustable” secondary air in conjunction with the stat controlling primary air from below. Once the stove gets rocking with coal or wood, adjust the spinners to take over the stove for wood burning. All I need is some steel square tubing behind the spinner intakes and across the doors, and up on top of the brick retainer all the way around it with some drilled holes. I was wondering the best way to provide secondary air tubes for wood. I think you just solved my problem for me. Thanks!

[Sunny Boy]

Secondary air is good only if in the right proportion to just burn the volatiles above the firebed. Add too much and not only will it slow the fire, but it can also become a safety problem for proper draft.

Because my #6 is already getting secondary air from the gas ring, adding any secondary air using the damper in the loading door when running on coal (this also a wood stove) just gradually slows the fire to dangerous levels.

I would recommend only experimenting with adding secondary air if you have a mano plumbed to the stove pipe to keep track that the draft is staying within safe limits.

If you want to learn more about adding a secondary air tube system, search back for a thread that moderator Lee "Lightning" did adding secondary air tubes to his coal furnace. Lots of good info.

Paul

[Hoytman]

I do have and use a manometer.

I’m more talking about using it for wood burning in this 354. Your comments just gave a vision of how and where to best run the air supply and I should be able to make it removable.

I’ve done extensive research in this area with regard to burning wood and with making secondary air fully adjustable I would have complete control of the burn (being fully able to close both the primary and secondary), unlike modern wood stoves currently being built today which now only have one lever for both air supplies that will not fully close off the air, save one model by U.S. Stove Works which has two separate control levers, one for primary and one for secondary. I can only assume these two controls give that U.S. Stove model adjustment capability, but with current EPA regulations I highly doubt either of those controls will completely close off the air supplies.

Often times primary air in modern wood stoves will not allow the air and the stove to be slowed down enough to snuff the stove, which is the one major complaint, from a use and safety standpoint, among modern wood stove hobbyists and enthusiasts. With the Hitzer design my primary air could be fully shut down from the flap, a hole placed in flap with a cover made to adjust hole size. The hole would keep some primary air always available, the flap would open if and when more temperature was called for. Then I can fine tune both primary and secondary air as needed and let the bi-metallic thermostat do the rest. It would then run near identical to a Blaze King wood stove with catalyst, except my stove would now be considered a tube stove run by bi-metallic thermostat.

Currently my door air spinners are too small on their own, compared to door spinner openings on older pre-epa wood burners, to supply a wood fire on their own and the fire gets smokey and dies. Tubing with air inlet behind the doors ran up to and around brick retainer will allow air to be super heated and expand which will then be able to ignite the wood smoke with holes drilled around the tubing going around the brick retainer. At that point it may even be better to run normal air tubes across the top of the firebox like a modern tune stove. The problem before was where and how to supply the air. Generally the thought is to bring the air supply in from the outside from tubes outside. Being behind the door spinners I can conceal it all.

It can even be used for coal burning while burning off volatiles and operation would remain the same. When blue flames are gone simply close spinners as usual to prevent the fire from dying and resume normal operation.

There’s one catch to doing this though…I need to study and take measurements of the square area of the opening above the baffle, from the very front leading edge of the baffle measuring to the front of the stove and the top as well as the width. That square area for wood burning must be near equal to the square area of the stove pipe breech itself for wood burning. As it is now for coal burning I believe that area in front of the removable baffle seems larger than the stove pipe breech. That could present a challenge to making this work and making this wood/coal stove burn wood much better and burning that wood much more like a modern secondary air tube wood stove.

Anyway, that’s the vision I got for wood burning in my 354, and I’ve derailed this thread far enough.