What am I doing wrong?
- ShawnLiNy
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- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Waterford
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You’ll develop and fine tune your technique when it’s consistently cold ( next season ) perhaps ad a manometer to see exactly what it’s drafting , in the meantime test slightly reducing your primary air to get lower chimney temps 15-20 * makes a big difference on consumption.
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- Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Kozy King 300
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- Other Heating: 50% propane, 20% wood, 20% heat pump, 10% coal
I have a Dwyer, Mark II.ShawnLiNy wrote: ↑Fri. Mar. 17, 2023 11:02 pm You’ll develop and fine tune your technique when it’s consistently cold ( next season ) perhaps ad a manometer to see exactly what it’s drafting , in the meantime test slightly reducing your primary air to get lower chimney temps 15-20 * makes a big difference on consumption.
When it's windy and I have a hot fire blazing I have seen a reading of -.25, so then I'm home and able to shut down my manual damper to about -.1. I'm just not comfortable enough to leave the house yet. I'm still trying to figure out this beast!
I do have a small fear that my Kozy King 300 is to big for my house. So trying to tame the beast and be efficient at the same time will be a challenge, I think? Let me know if any has any thoughts on taming this big furnace down? Smaller, pea size coal slow the air down, but will it suffocate out? Lesser burn time? (I sure do like firing up every 11-12 hours, that's handy!)
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Only .1? I thought your manual said .06-.08?KozyKingOhio wrote: ↑Sat. Mar. 18, 2023 7:26 am I have a Dwyer, Mark II.
When it's windy and I have a hot fire blazing I have seen a reading of -.25, so then I'm home and able to shut down my manual damper to about -.1. I'm just not comfortable enough to leave the house yet. I'm still trying to figure out this beast!
I do have a small fear that my Kozy King 300 is to big for my house. So trying to tame the beast and be efficient at the same time will be a challenge, I think? Let me know if any has any thoughts on taming this big furnace down? Smaller, pea size coal slow the air down, but will it suffocate out? Lesser burn time? (I sure do like firing up every 11-12 hours, that's handy!)
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- Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Kozy King 300
- Coal Size/Type: nut
- Other Heating: 50% propane, 20% wood, 20% heat pump, 10% coal
It does, when my manual damper is shut off about all the way, with really windy conditions and a hot fire, -.1 is pretty good, better than not having a damper at all.
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- Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Kozy King 300
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- Other Heating: 50% propane, 20% wood, 20% heat pump, 10% coal
- ShawnLiNy
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- Joined: Fri. Nov. 30, 2018 12:28 am
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Waterford
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I was in the same boat ( I was scared of running a baro thinking it would back draft because I had no clue other than it appeared to be a hole where the smoke is !) a wood only burner should never have a baro ( to my knowledge ) but us multi fuel burners need the baro for slower exhaust velocity for coal , and cover with foil or use a magnet to hold the door when burning wood ( the danger comes after a lot of creosote buildup a baro would feed a chimney fire ) i burn a lot of crap not. Quite properly seasoned wood and haven’t had a creosote issue yet .KozyKingOhio wrote: ↑Sat. Mar. 18, 2023 5:29 pm I still burn a lot of wood. I've heard to not use a bars with wood? Is that correct?
- ShawnLiNy
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- Joined: Fri. Nov. 30, 2018 12:28 am
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Waterford
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I ran my stove the first season without anything other than door air control ( no issues I thought ! ) my manufacturer wants no higher than .05 , I noticed a 30% increase in burn times which was a complete surprise I had no clue how much heat was going up chimney ( min pipe temp without baro is 250 range , with baro adjusted to .03 I’ve run as low as 135* without risk of losing the fire
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- Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Kozy King 300
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I love the insight! I think I'll just try shutting down my damper about all the way next winter. With it closed all the way, it has holes in it to allow 20% flow.ShawnLiNy wrote: ↑Sat. Mar. 18, 2023 6:25 pm I ran my stove the first season without anything other than door air control ( no issues I thought ! ) my manufacturer wants no higher than .05 , I noticed a 30% increase in burn times which was a complete surprise I had no clue how much heat was going up chimney ( min pipe temp without baro is 250 range , with baro adjusted to .03 I’ve run as low as 135* without risk of losing the fire
And if nut coal doesn't come down in price, I'm not sure how much I'm going to buy anyway!
I think I have only about 2 more days of burning anthracite here in Ohio....It is almost April ya know...
I'm thankful for all of the help from this forum. I probably would have been frustrated and given up on anthracite if you all wouldn't have helped me!
Thanks again, I will probably have questions next year...
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Things to buy for next season on o be ready.
-At least 2 magnet thermometers, more is better. A fee for different spots of n the stove and one for the stove pipe. Doesn’t matter if they’ve accurate or not. They can be somewhat calibrated, but as long as you know how far off they are that is all that matters. Jus use them for reference.
- Laser Infrared thermometer. Harbor Freight sells them for cheap.
- Manometer for measuring and monitoring your chimney draft. Dwyer Mark II model 25 will work just fine and less than $55.
- You might want to consider buying a barometric damper. These guys on here can tell you which model to buy….the brand is Fields Control.
- Coal for next season should be cheapest in the month of May.
As soon as you shut down for the season remove your stove pipe, clean the pipe and the stove free from any ash. Keep them dry and/or oiled. Once again these guys here can guide you how to keep them dry or what to oil them with.
-At least 2 magnet thermometers, more is better. A fee for different spots of n the stove and one for the stove pipe. Doesn’t matter if they’ve accurate or not. They can be somewhat calibrated, but as long as you know how far off they are that is all that matters. Jus use them for reference.
- Laser Infrared thermometer. Harbor Freight sells them for cheap.
- Manometer for measuring and monitoring your chimney draft. Dwyer Mark II model 25 will work just fine and less than $55.
- You might want to consider buying a barometric damper. These guys on here can tell you which model to buy….the brand is Fields Control.
- Coal for next season should be cheapest in the month of May.
As soon as you shut down for the season remove your stove pipe, clean the pipe and the stove free from any ash. Keep them dry and/or oiled. Once again these guys here can guide you how to keep them dry or what to oil them with.
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- Member
- Posts: 53
- Joined: Mon. Dec. 05, 2022 5:42 pm
- Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Kozy King 300
- Coal Size/Type: nut
- Other Heating: 50% propane, 20% wood, 20% heat pump, 10% coal
Hey guys, what oil should I use? after brushing, should I oil my Class A SS chimney???Hoytman wrote: ↑Sun. Mar. 19, 2023 11:39 am Things to buy for next season on o be ready.
-At least 2 magnet thermometers, more is better. A fee for different spots of n the stove and one for the stove pipe. Doesn’t matter if they’ve accurate or not. They can be somewhat calibrated, but as long as you know how far off they are that is all that matters. Jus use them for reference. I have 2 on my flue pipe, and 2 on the face of my furnace.
- Laser Infrared thermometer. Harbor Freight sells them for cheap. got it
- Manometer for measuring and monitoring your chimney draft. Dwyer Mark II model 25 will work just fine and less than $55.
got it
- You might want to consider buying a barometric damper. These guys on here can tell you which model to buy….the brand is Fields Control. need to get it
- Coal for next season should be cheapest in the month of May. good to know, I hope it's under $9 per bag
As soon as you shut down for the season remove your stove pipe, clean the pipe and the stove free from any ash. Keep them dry and/or oiled. Once again these guys here can guide you how to keep them dry or what to oil them with.