Disclaimer: No affiliation whatsoever. Just passing information along.
Good stuff for off season stove rust protection as well as many other uses in home or shop.
Couple days left yet on winter sale.
WoolWax Winter Sale
WoolWax Rust Protection
- McGiever
- Member
- Posts: 10128
- Joined: Sun. May. 02, 2010 11:26 pm
- Location: Junction of PA-OH-WV
- Stoker Coal Boiler: AXEMAN-ANDERSON 130 "1959"
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: BUCKET A DAY water heater
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 414A
- Coal Size/Type: PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE
- Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump and some Solar
- HandFire
- Member
- Posts: 196
- Joined: Thu. Feb. 11, 2021 6:06 pm
- Location: Central PA
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: DS 110
- Coal Size/Type: Stove/Nut
Funny you posted this, my mechanic recommended this to me last week when I asked him about rust protection. He said twice a year applications if you put on a lot of miles but I could do once since I don't. I might try it next fall and see how it holds up. HE will be doing it as I am too busted up to be playing under vehicles anymore. Luckily I don't have issues with the stove, yet.
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- Member
- Posts: 81
- Joined: Tue. Jul. 30, 2013 12:07 am
- Location: scranton-ish...
- Stoker Coal Boiler: '57 EFM DF'd 520
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: LL Independance
- Coal Size/Type: Buck & Rice
woolwax works good. fluid film works well, too. the new shizzle is supposed to be the p'blaster surface shield, but it's expensive.
all of them apply easier with a bedliner-style spray gun. amazon has kits with wands and different tips. fan-style and the 360* tip on the end of a long tube (so you can spray inside enclosed areas) are most important.
get the cheap-o harbor freight ball-valve-style pressure regulator and gauge. You want 10-15 psi. wear a mask and goggles.
before you spray with the wax, you want to do a good wash to get all the salt of mud off so the WW/FF/SS will stuck to metal. The main advantage of the SS is that it's supposed to creep through and under stuff better. I don't know, I still have a couple gallons of FF to go through first.
all of them apply easier with a bedliner-style spray gun. amazon has kits with wands and different tips. fan-style and the 360* tip on the end of a long tube (so you can spray inside enclosed areas) are most important.
get the cheap-o harbor freight ball-valve-style pressure regulator and gauge. You want 10-15 psi. wear a mask and goggles.
before you spray with the wax, you want to do a good wash to get all the salt of mud off so the WW/FF/SS will stuck to metal. The main advantage of the SS is that it's supposed to creep through and under stuff better. I don't know, I still have a couple gallons of FF to go through first.
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- Missed and Always Remembered
- Posts: 6110
- Joined: Wed. Jan. 18, 2017 11:30 pm
- Location: swOH near a little town where the homes are mobile and the cars aren’t
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 354
- Coal Size/Type: nut coal
- Other Heating: electric, wood, oil
Dang!
I read this thread awhile back, but completely forgot about it. I had Fluid Film on hand, but didn’t use it either. I guess the main reason I forgot about using either of these is because I didn’t want to smell either of them considering I had removed the stove pipe from my stove.
Wasn’t real sure how either would smell once I started the stove. Didn’t want any fowl smells in the house just in case you could smell while the stove was burning. (I would hope any smells would be carried up the chimney with the exhaust.)
I ended up just spraying the inside of the stove down with PAM original after cleaning out vacuuming the stove. I hope that provides enough protection.
I’ll probably have to wipe the inside of the stove out before next use.
I done a real thorough job trying to remove all the fly ash in any corners using a stiff brush as well as a brush the vacuum hose end.
Wasn’t sure if any residual fly ash in corners could cake up with oil (PAM) or these wax based products and cause issues later. I assume as long as the fly ash doesn’t mix with moisture then it shouldn’t present any problems. Someone speak up if my assumptions are misguided. My goal is to protect my investment in my stove.
I read this thread awhile back, but completely forgot about it. I had Fluid Film on hand, but didn’t use it either. I guess the main reason I forgot about using either of these is because I didn’t want to smell either of them considering I had removed the stove pipe from my stove.
Wasn’t real sure how either would smell once I started the stove. Didn’t want any fowl smells in the house just in case you could smell while the stove was burning. (I would hope any smells would be carried up the chimney with the exhaust.)
I ended up just spraying the inside of the stove down with PAM original after cleaning out vacuuming the stove. I hope that provides enough protection.
I’ll probably have to wipe the inside of the stove out before next use.
I done a real thorough job trying to remove all the fly ash in any corners using a stiff brush as well as a brush the vacuum hose end.
Wasn’t sure if any residual fly ash in corners could cake up with oil (PAM) or these wax based products and cause issues later. I assume as long as the fly ash doesn’t mix with moisture then it shouldn’t present any problems. Someone speak up if my assumptions are misguided. My goal is to protect my investment in my stove.
- McGiever
- Member
- Posts: 10128
- Joined: Sun. May. 02, 2010 11:26 pm
- Location: Junction of PA-OH-WV
- Stoker Coal Boiler: AXEMAN-ANDERSON 130 "1959"
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: BUCKET A DAY water heater
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 414A
- Coal Size/Type: PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE
- Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump and some Solar
WoolWax just did a Forth of July sale.
Would expect another for Labor Day.
Would expect another for Labor Day.