HAAS+SOHN???
Good afternoon all,
I recently purchased a new home with a coal stove previously installed. It is a haas+sohn, unfortunately I do not have a lot more information than that.... I used to burn wood at my previous house with an antique all nighter stove. I have always been told once you start burning coal you will never look back. Attached are a couple pictures of the stove. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks again!
I recently purchased a new home with a coal stove previously installed. It is a haas+sohn, unfortunately I do not have a lot more information than that.... I used to burn wood at my previous house with an antique all nighter stove. I have always been told once you start burning coal you will never look back. Attached are a couple pictures of the stove. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks again!
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- Hand Fed Coal Stove: V ermont Castings 2310, Franco Belge 262
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- Coal Size/Type: nut and pea
If memory serves that stove was made in three sizes. thermostat air control. Very heavy and well built. hopper fed.
I have never used one, i do think the sloping fire box walls will lead to problems clearing ash and will probably need assistance in clearing that ash with a flat poker which can also be slid under the small door just at grate level.
What I described is for the Pluto model which yours is not but probably similar. Some models were made for wood. Some pictures of the inside would help.
I have never used one, i do think the sloping fire box walls will lead to problems clearing ash and will probably need assistance in clearing that ash with a flat poker which can also be slid under the small door just at grate level.
What I described is for the Pluto model which yours is not but probably similar. Some models were made for wood. Some pictures of the inside would help.
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Yes, pretty much as I thought.
Clean it out and see if the grate will shake. Even if it does, it will be pretty ineffectual.
Count on clearing ash by sliding a piece of 1/8 by 3/4 wide steel poker under that door just above the grate.
Clean it out and see if the grate will shake. Even if it does, it will be pretty ineffectual.
Count on clearing ash by sliding a piece of 1/8 by 3/4 wide steel poker under that door just above the grate.
Franco,
Perfect thank you for your help. I do not have any experience with coal stoves. Do you usually start them on wood then add the coal into the top hopper? How do the air controls work? I can’t seem to find any on the stove like my all nighter wood stove with the two air dials right on front of the stove? I see that on the rear of the stove there is a dial damper on the pipe connection but other than that I cannot seem to find anything
Perfect thank you for your help. I do not have any experience with coal stoves. Do you usually start them on wood then add the coal into the top hopper? How do the air controls work? I can’t seem to find any on the stove like my all nighter wood stove with the two air dials right on front of the stove? I see that on the rear of the stove there is a dial damper on the pipe connection but other than that I cannot seem to find anything
- freetown fred
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I use self light briquettes. Slowly add coal up to hopper & then fill hopper. Initial start up takes me about 20-30- minutes. Then I'm good till spring.
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Open the ash door and with the ash pan out, use a light to inspect the sides and back for an air opening. This will probably lead to a damper connected to a long shaft connected to that dial. Rotate the dial back and forth and look for the damper covering the air opening in the ash area to open and close. this will open and close according to the heat it senses in the stove. When starting make sure it is open. It can be regulated to a lower number later when the stove is putting out heat.
Yes, start a wood or charcoal fire and when well lit, add coal in small amounts at a time until a bed of coal is built up at least 8 inches deep for nut coal or 6 inches for pea. You can leave the ash door open when starting to insure lots of air getting to the fire, but close that ash door when the coal is burning to prevent over heating.
The stove should be clean including the smoke pipe and chimney. With a cold stove light a piece of paper to see if the chimney drafts well. Do get a CO detector.
Yes, start a wood or charcoal fire and when well lit, add coal in small amounts at a time until a bed of coal is built up at least 8 inches deep for nut coal or 6 inches for pea. You can leave the ash door open when starting to insure lots of air getting to the fire, but close that ash door when the coal is burning to prevent over heating.
The stove should be clean including the smoke pipe and chimney. With a cold stove light a piece of paper to see if the chimney drafts well. Do get a CO detector.
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Ha ha! I work with the OP, you'd think he'd get his wife to make dinner and invite my wife and I over for a few hours so I could get him going... (hint, hint Mike)
Hello again guys, just wanted to take some time to give you guys a quick up date. I decided to give the stove a try a couple days ago so I went out and purchased a couple bags of coal, 1 pea and 2 nut. At first I found the pea coal was very difficult to burn in the stove. I found the stove ran a lot better on the nut coal so that’s what I have been runnin in it. It seems like the normal operating temperature is around 400ish and the pipe around 150. I have looked online and still cannot find a user manual anywhere. The stove seems like the automatic thermostat closes too soon to prevent overfiring. If I leave the top door closed and leave the bottom ash door open I can get the stove to run around 600 and it won’t go any further than that, and that is with the ash door open for some time. Is this normal operating temps? Also I have only been filling it to the bottom of the fire pot as seen in the picture attached. Should I be filling the stove all the way to the top? Thanks again guys, appreciate all the help again!
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- Lightning
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It's hard to tell from the pictures how deep the fuel bed area is. Nut size likes to be at least 8 inches deep. If there is room for more depth you could go up to 12 inches. The deeper bed will give you longer burn times provided you can clear ash effectively at tending. It shouldn't be a problem to get 12 hours between tendings with moderate heat output.
Running it with the ash pan door open is not ideally how to get decent efficiency. With the Ash pan door open a huge volume of air is going thru the stove which is carrying a lot of heat with it up the chimney. You also run the risk of over firing and warping internal parts. Just be careful with that.
Running it with the ash pan door open is not ideally how to get decent efficiency. With the Ash pan door open a huge volume of air is going thru the stove which is carrying a lot of heat with it up the chimney. You also run the risk of over firing and warping internal parts. Just be careful with that.
With the nut coal I would say the bed of coal was around 6-8 inches tall hopefully this picture will give you a better idea. Should I be loading past the top door where I stopped and go all the way up with loading via the steel door on top?
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- 2001Sierra
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I had a Buderus that was similar. 1st of all you really only have 50KBTUS at best. With that being said use it for what it is. The thermostatic damper will help from over firing the stove. I found nut worked best as well. Ash removal is always an issue in these European stoves. Knifing above the grate with flat steel bar can prove very helpful. Fill the hopper and enjoy the heat. I also found that weekly I would run the hopper down so I could also clear ash from the top with a low fire.
Last edited by 2001Sierra on Wed. Jan. 24, 2018 10:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.