Acme Ventiduct

[[email protected]]

Finally dragged out of storage to spruce it up for use. Know very little about it. Would love to be abe to find a few parts- door hing pins to tighten things up. I've got some Rutland Furnace Cement that I'll seal it up with. It seems to have a doulbe jacket around the fire chamber that vents out the back. Hoping I can burn wood in this to heat my shop (and not burn the shop down). Would love to find installation tips. How far from walls, what kind of vent pipe, backing material on wall. Can I just set it on my concrete shop floor away from the wall a couple of feet? Seems to be missing a handle for the smaller top door on the front. It's got 3 twist vents, a metal ash pan, and a nice oval exhaust vent elbow.

It says ACME Ventiduct Newark Stoveworks Chicago on the front top door plaque. Also has the number "38" cast into front lower body. It's a great looking stove. I love it!

[CapeCoaler]

Pics of the insides help...
Especially the grates...

[SWPaDon]

Welcome to the forum.
Nice stove you have there, would be a real looker once redone. But might I suggest standing it up, that way the wood/coal won't fall out

Could you post more pictures? Inside and out, all the way around? Give us a good view of the firepot and the grates. I believe it is a 'double heater', that means a pipe could be added to it to supply hot air to a second room directly above. Need pics of the rear to be sure.

[freetown fred]

Nice stove you have there, would be a real looker once redone. But might I suggest standing it up, that way the wood/coal won't fall out -------------ya couldn't help yourself could ya Don?????????????? Welcome to the FORUM D.

[SWPaDon]

No FF, I couldn't

[Sunny Boy]

Welcome, DD.

By what you describe it sounds like it's a "double heater" type Oak stove. The jacket on the rear heats room air by convection that can then be ducted to another location, such as to rooms upstairs.

Oaks are generally meant to burn wood and some have the right type of grates that also allow them to burn coal very well. If you ever intended to burn coal (better than wood for long, steady heat output), it's best to have a "lined pot" - the firepot is lined inside with about a one inch thickness of refractory cement.

As others have said, pix of the insides and all around the outside will help to determine more about what it is and what it can burn.

Paul

[[email protected]]

IMG_3393.JPG

• Filename: IMG_3393.JPG
• Filesize: (167.47 KB)
• Downloads: Viewed 47536 times

IMG_3371.JPG

• Filename: IMG_3371.JPG
• Filesize: (164.99 KB)
• Downloads: Viewed 47528 times

IMG_3372.JPG

• Filename: IMG_3372.JPG
• Filesize: (179.31 KB)
• Downloads: Viewed 47532 times

IMG_3370.JPG

• Filename: IMG_3370.JPG
• Filesize: (127.93 KB)
• Downloads: Viewed 47534 times

ventiduct back side

File Comment:

ventiduct back side

IMG_3370.JPG

• Filename: IMG_3370.JPG
• Filesize: (127.93 KB)
• Downloads: Viewed 47534 times

ventiduct back side

File Comment:

ventiduct back side

Thanks for the interest. I've attached more pictures (hopefully they don't come out sideways) of the back side showing a nickel plated oval cover over one exhaust port on the top and a cast elbow over the back side port. Also show some pictures of the inside grate.

[SWPaDon]

The oval on top is the 'double heater' function. A pipe could be run to a room upstairs for heat. And yes, it will burn coal also.

Could you get us a few shots of the firepot from inside the loading doors? You'll want to inspect that area for any cracks.

[[email protected]]

IMG_3325.JPG

• Filename: IMG_3325.JPG
• Filesize: (152.84 KB)
• Downloads: Viewed 47523 times

IMG_3322.JPG

• Filename: IMG_3322.JPG
• Filesize: (213.52 KB)
• Downloads: Viewed 47531 times

IMG_3327.JPG

• Filename: IMG_3327.JPG
• Filesize: (185.16 KB)
• Downloads: Viewed 47524 times

IMG_3324.JPG

• Filename: IMG_3324.JPG
• Filesize: (215.21 KB)
• Downloads: Viewed 47526 times

IMG_3323.JPG

• Filename: IMG_3323.JPG
• Filesize: (179.47 KB)
• Downloads: Viewed 47526 times

The insides of the stove and a picture showing about 1/2 the bottom lip of top front door chipped away. There is some places within the stove where I see day light coming through seams but cant see any cracks in the castings.
Thanks! Dan

[Sunny Boy]

DD,
Good - no cracks. The seams with missing caulking can be resealed with refractory cement.

If the chipped door still seals well enough when closed that chipped out area shouldn't be a problem.

If your going to just burn wood you won't need to line the firepot. If you intend to use coal you should line the firepot. Coal burns best with a hot fire. the liner will improve the coal burning ability by helping retain heat within the firebed for a more complete burning of the coal, and it will also protect the firepot.

And if you burn coal, you'll need a shaker handle for that "draw center" type grate. It has to attach to the bar in behind that small door in the ash pan door so that it can shake the large round grate left and right, in addition to being able to pull the smaller center section out some to help dump ashes.

If you burn just wood then a regular fire poker will work well for moving the ash down through the grate. If you need an ash pan and can't make one yourself, our member Freddy makes them, or see if you can find a local sheet metal shop. Sometimes heating and air conditioning installers have the tools to make a pan.

Paul

[[email protected]]

Great overview SunnyBoy. Appreciate it! I was thinking of sandblasting the rust off and painting the parts silver and black as appropriate. Would most people here find that a bit sacrilegious? Spruce up the appearance while it's in use and stave off nickel plating until a day when it's taken apart for an appropriate restoration. I'd hate to make such a beautiful appliance look cheesy.

[Sunny Boy]

Great overview SunnyBoy. Appreciate it! I was thinking of sandblasting the rust off and painting the parts silver and black as appropriate. Would most people here find that a bit sacrilegious? Spruce up the appearance while it's in use and stave off nickel plating until a day when it's taken apart for an appropriate restoration. I'd hate to make such a beautiful appliance look cheesy.

Not sacrilegious at all. And by far, you won't be the first to put off expensive re-plating in preference of being warm first.

As much as many of us appreciate what goes into restoring stoves back to like new, coal burners tend to have a strong practical streak and are less fixated on fancy !!! It's a core part of why we choose to heat with coal !

After all, ... if we wanted to be "heating snobs", we'd do like the Government big-wigs and instead of coal, we'd burn through money !

Paul

[[email protected]]

just to follow up with how it turned out after I stripped the stove down, sandblasted all surface rust off, sealed up and gaps and painted the pieces. It is easy to start the fire and it takes about an hour before it starts to heat my insulated 3 car garage on the coldest days. The hardest part is keeping control of the early fire to keep the flames from going up into the oval 90-degree vent pipe out the back and up into the vent stack.

[[email protected]]

why my pictures are sideways I don't know. sorry bout that

[WIburnerPaul]

Finally dragged out of storage to spruce it up for use. Know very little about it. Would love to be abe to find a few parts- door hing pins to tighten things up. I've got some Rutland Furnace Cement that I'll seal it up with. It seems to have a doulbe jacket around the fire chamber that vents out the back. Hoping I can burn wood in this to heat my shop (and not burn the shop down). Would love to find installation tips. How far from walls, what kind of vent pipe, backing material on wall. Can I just set it on my concrete shop floor away from the wall a couple of feet? Seems to be missing a handle for the smaller top door on the front. It's got 3 twist vents, a metal ash pan, and a nice oval exhaust vent elbow.

It says ACME Ventiduct Newark Stoveworks Chicago on the front top door plaque. Also has the number "38" cast into front lower body. It's a great looking stove. I love it!

Welcome, DD.

By what you describe it sounds like it's a "double heater" type Oak stove. The jacket on the rear heats room air by convection that can then be ducted to another location, such as to rooms upstairs.

Oaks are generally meant to burn wood and some have the right type of grates that also allow them to burn coal very well. If you ever intended to burn coal (better than wood for long, steady heat output), it's best to have a "lined pot" - the firepot is lined inside with about a one inch thickness of refractory cement.

As others have said, pix of the insides and all around the outside will help to determine more about what it is and what it can burn.

Paul

Ever line the cast fire pot with Knox Ram plastic refractory, to prevent cracking?