Any Furnace Suggestions

[SWPaDon]

Thanks for posting that. I wonder if that's a new addition? Before I got hurt at work back in 2014, I was planning on buying the Economiser to replace my Clayton and I don't recall the bimetallic being there. I also thought they offered a larger Economiser furnace at that time.

EDIT: Some of the pictures have it, some don't. (click 'photos' tab)

http://woodstoves.net/ds-stoves/wood/ds-machine-s ... urnace.htm

[lcback]

Huh, I didn't notice that some don't have that.

I guess I'll have to call the dealer today and ask him what he has. He is in punxitony so it's a little far to drive up just to look.

[McGiever]

Says available in either left or right inlet, so all are not identical.

[SWPaDon]

lcback, What is the BTU rating of your current furnace?

And on a side note, you asked earlier about where to take temperature readings on the furnace to keep below the 600 degree limit. You could put a magnetic thermometer just above the load door.

[lcback]

My current propane furnace is 72,000 BTU but it only heats the main floor. This is a modular put on top of a poured concrete foundation. That's one reason I like putting a wood furnace in the basement

[lcback]

Okay,
I asked the DS stove dealer about air intake, he said it was all manual. And that was all he knew. Then I got an email from woodstoves.net answering some of my questions. They said the air was controlled with a Bi-metallic spring on the right side of the stove.
Im not sure how you are supposed to regulate the air. But I guess a combination of the 4 door spinners and the bi-metallic spring. setting?

She said there is not Barometric damper needed for burning wood, but they recommend one for coal, set to .25WC
I am still trying to find out about UL listing. I know it say's it is. But I cannot find anything on the UL manufacturer page for the company name.

[SWPaDon]

Okay,
I asked the DS stove dealer about air intake, he said it was all manual. And that was all he knew. Then I got an email from woodstoves.net answering some of my questions. They said the air was controlled with a Bi-metallic spring on the right side of the stove.
Im not sure how you are supposed to regulate the air. But I guess a combination of the 4 door spinners and the bi-metallic spring. setting?

She said there is not Barometric damper needed for burning wood, but they recommend one for coal, set to .25WC
I am still trying to find out about UL listing. I know it say's it is. But I cannot find anything on the UL manufacturer page for the company name.

For wood you must have a MPD(manual pipe damper) otherwise the flames from the wood fire will go up the chimney and start a chimey fire if there is any creosote build up from burning wood.

You can use the bi-metallic to regulate the air intake, which will make the stove automatic(keep the spin dampers closed for this) or use the spin dampers and disconnect the bi-metallic.

[lcback]

I am assuming it has a damper like every other wood furnace that I looked at as far as an MPD. I cant be sure though, since no one can give me a real drawing of the assembly. at least not until I make the hike to go look at it.
The wood forum guys don't believe it is UL listed, and think it wont really burn efficiently. I don't know I think they are a little picky about brands. this guy looks well made, well designed for both uses, and being mad in PA is another plus. Besides nothing they suggest will burn coal at all, at least this guy gives me options.

I appreciate you suggesting it, will probably take a drive up to see one as soon as my dad's truck is free.

[SWPaDon]

It takes 6 inch flue pipe, just stop at tractor supply or somewhere and pick a MPD up, if it doesn't come with one. They are easy to install and the damper itself is made of cast iron.

[rmishler]

DS Ecomiser

An original before they added the bimetallic air feed. Only adjusting is with the knobs. 26 degrees tonight in Somerset county 76 degrees inside with the ash pan door knobs turned 1.25 turns from closed. Loving it so far.[/img][/img]

[rmishler]

DS Ecomiser

An original before they added the bimetallic air feed. Only adjusting is with the knobs. 26 degrees tonight in Somerset county 76 degrees inside with the ash pan door knobs turned 1.25 turns from closed. Loving it so far.[/img][/img]

[rmishler]

Heating the house very well. If anyone else has one have they ever tested how long a burn can last without shake down. I have been going every 12 hours but wondered if I could go 24

[fig]

That’s a nice looking bit fire. I have a DS basement stove and couldn’t get it to burn bit. The kind I get is small and very volatile though. I kept getting horrible puff backs. I tried adding extra over fire air and even put a set of their side air vents in it. Still didn’t help. I sure wish I could get bit like yours. It burned anthracite great though.

When I burned bit in a hot blast I used to have I would struggle to get 8 hour burn times. It was the small version though so it didn’t hold near the amount yours holds. It actually worked pretty good and I’d probably still be using it if it would have been capable of 12 hour burns.

I would definitely continue shaking down every 12 hours. If you’re away and can’t get back for 14-15 hours you might still have a fire left. Any longer and it may go out. You could try it and see. Worse case scenario you have to relight.

[rmishler]

I was burning anthracite not bit. We had a cold snap for about a week and wanted to test it as that will be my primary fuel in cold winter. This week we have a cold snap for about 4 days so I’m sticking to wood as I haven’t had much time or experience burning wood in it. I’m pleased to say the least. It chews through some wood but the house is about 72 mostly and easy to control as wood goes.

[fig]

Oh ok. Yeh my furnace likes wood. I’m lucky to get 6 hours.