New P&R Valve

[Kungur]

Just have to verify the thread size for the vent.I want to replace it also.

[Kungur]

So I ordered a new tank and vent from Supply House yesterday at about 2pm. Got a notice that it will be delivered today!

[Rob R.]

So I ordered a new tank and vent from Supply House yesterday at about 2pm. Got a notice that it will be delivered today!

Those guys are great, I get most stuff from them next day as well. If I had been thinking I would have suggested adding a bottle of this to your order: https://www.supplyhouse.com/Rectorseal-68712-8-Wa ... -Treatment

You can probably get something very similar at your local supply house, easy to add when the PRV is removed. Using a boiler conditioning product keeps the water clear and minimizes any corrosion in the system.

[Kungur]

So like a good idea. Is it safe for the PEX in the radiant floor system?

[waytomany?s]

So like a good idea. Is it safe for the PEX in the radiant floor system?

That's a good question.

[Rob R.]

So like a good idea. Is it safe for the PEX in the radiant floor system?

Yes, I have a lot of PEX in my system also. The water is still clear 4 years after adding the corrosion inhibitor.

[Kungur]

Do I need to drain the whole system and start fresh? Or does the additive clean up what is already there?

[Rob R.]

Do I need to drain the whole system and start fresh? Or does the additive clean up what is already there?

You just need to drain enough to remove the PRV and pour the additive in.

[Kungur]

Thanks! I picked up the additive yesterday. Fortunately we are having a mild spell right now.

[Kungur]

So on a previous post I asked about the expansion tank problem. I have all the new bits in the basement ready to go. But since it has been 12 years since we put the KA2 into service I am drawing a blank on how did it!

If memory serves me ,I recall after filling that I would continue to open the vents to purge the air. I think I did this until I got all the airout.

Am I on the right track?

Thanks!

[nepacoal]

Do you have baseboard or radiators? With baseboard you do a power purge to get the air out. With radiators you just let it fill up and then open the air valve on each radiator.

[lzaharis]

Hello and good afternoon Kungur,

Yes, you do it that way. If you have a boiler drain on top of the boiler that is even easier as all the air is in the top of the boiler or just remove the new air vent until you have water coming out of the air scoop.

If you have an automatic air vent on top of your air scoop you can shut the stoker off by turning the adjustment nut all the way in and then turn on the stoker which will activate a circulator-but in saying that you will have air bouncing around in your system.

It may just be simpler for now to open the water feed valve and let the boiler heat up and the water will drive the air out over time though the air scoop and vent.

Removing the air vent and letting the water spill out of it is less fuss and muss and start your fire and turn the thermostat way up and the circulator and the hot water will drive the remaining air bubbles out through the air scoop and then the automatic vent and out.

[Kungur]

I have a vent on to of the boiler and one on top of the air scoop.

Thanks again for your help!

[Kungur]

Had some time this afternoon to work on the repairs. Removed the old expansion tank and vents and added the additive. Tomorrow I will get it lit!

[Rob R.]

Good deal. Make sure you write the date on all the new parts.