Using chimney liner to connect existing chimney

[waytomany?s]

Will chimney liner meet code to run temporarily?

[freetown fred]

Only if they don't know!!! Hell, it's temporary!!

[waytomany?s]

Only if they don't know!!! Hell, it's temporary!!

Lol, that would be my solution, but I'm trying to be, uhh, PC I guess.

[vetrob1]

Lol, that would be my solution, but I'm trying to be, uhh, PC I guess.

Yea I was even gunna get pre insulated liner. It has insulation in the middle of it. It would only be for me season until I get the funds to fix it correctly

[waytomany?s]

Yea I was even gunna get pre insulated liner. It has insulation in the middle of it. It would only be for me season until I get the funds to fix it correctly

Don't get me wrong, I want to be safe. I want you to be safe. If you can safely make a temporary fix, that's what I would do. Any chance you can bring it down and 45 it and still have the doorway clear?

[carlherrnstein]

I know it's daunting, an you've got a good pitch to your roof. That helps get the water off, but it also makes it more unnerving to work on.

I had a powerful windstorm earlier this year and I ripped 5 shingles off my house. That was the first time I ever repaired a dimensional shingle roof. I have a 4/12 pitch an it only 1 story so it wasn't bad to do, but it couldn't leak an it had all summer to bake and "lay down"

I wouldn't be a bit afraid of moving it, but that's me. IMO the danger of a house fire outweighs the risk of a minor roof leak.

You've got enough roof pitch that water will not spend much time on the roof, there's no valleys to fool with. In all reality you probably only need to buy 1 bundle of shingles a 1 lb box of 2" construction screws, 1 lb box of 1 1/2" roofing nails, 1 8' 2x4 an a tube of roofing cement/tar. I bet you can reuse all the flashing an chimney supports. You would still have an ugly hole in the ceiling to look at though.

[vetrob1]

Don't get me wrong, I want to be safe. I want you to be safe. If you can safely make a temporary fix, that's what I would do. Any chance you can bring it down and 45 it and still have the doorway clear?

I mean if there was a way to integrate double wall stove pipe to class a I would just put a 45 of the existing chimney pipe and run class a then use 30 degree offset to get it through the ceiling. Would it work ? How would I attach it self tapping stainless screws and an adapter? Do you also wrap joints with ducting tape?

[vetrob1]

I know it's daunting, an you've got a good pitch to your roof. That helps get the water off, but it also makes it more unnerving to work on.

I had a powerful windstorm earlier this year and I ripped 5 shingles off my house. That was the first time I ever repaired a dimensional shingle roof. I have a 4/12 pitch an it only 1 story so it wasn't bad to do, but it couldn't leak an it had all summer to bake and "lay down"

I wouldn't be a bit afraid of moving it, but that's me. IMO the danger of a house fire outweighs the risk of a minor roof leak.

You've got enough roof pitch that water will not spend much time on the roof, there's no valleys to fool with. In all reality you probably only need to buy 1 bundle of shingles a 1 lb box of 2" construction screws, 1 lb box of 1 1/2" roofing nails, 1 8' 2x4 an a tube of roofing cement/tar. I bet you can reuse all the flashing an chimney supports. You would still have an ugly hole in the ceiling to look at though.

Well the good thing is there’s no hole in the ceiling, for now. I just don’t feel comfortable doing it myself. The other issue it has to be 2 feet above all surfaces within 10 feet and it would make it have to go up another 10 feet maybe.

[lincolnmania]

you can get duravent 45's at home depot https://www.homedepot.com/p/DuraVent-DVL-6-in-45- ... /205544494

[waytomany?s]

I mean if there was a way to integrate double wall stove pipe to class a I would just put a 45 of the existing chimney pipe and run class a then use 30 degree offset to get it through the ceiling. Would it work ? How would I attach it self tapping stainless screws and an adapter? Do you also wrap joints with ducting tape?

"Duct tape" is for heat ducts. They make aluminum tape, but I don't know if it is necessary or viable for this situation. See if you can find a 45 and another section of pipe to get you closer to the opening in the ceiling.

[carlherrnstein]

I mean if there was a way to integrate double wall stove pipe to class a I would just put a 45 of the existing chimney pipe and run class a then use 30 degree offset to get it through the ceiling. Would it work ? How would I attach it self tapping stainless screws and an adapter? Do you also wrap joints with ducting tape?

Please for your sake and the sake of those around you, please get somebody that has some experience with setting up solid fuel heating appliances. This doesn't mean hire the first one that Google shows you. It could be a friend, a neighbor, a co-worker or Pablo the rando from home Depot.

[vetrob1]

Please for your sake and the sake of those around you, please get somebody that has some experience with setting up solid fuel heating appliances. This doesn't mean hire the first one that Google shows you. It could be a friend, a neighbor, a co-worker or Pablo the rando from home Depot.

I have some experience but you don’t know what you don’t know. I’m all about safety and I take no shortcuts when it comes to my family. I’m going to use a double wall 45 from the existing chimney then class an all the way to the ceiling support. I’m going to insulate the 45.