Chimney Draft Test

Post by **coalder** » Sun. Dec. 27, 2020 4:16 pm

Lee, I am not disagreeing with you regarding preheated secondary air. It most certainly has to help with draft. Furthermore I don't understand why all coal stoves don't incorporate some sort of it in their design.

What I'm trying to say is that no matter how ya try, Ya can't make a rifle with a bent barrel shoot straight.

Jim

Post by **Lightning** » Sun. Dec. 27, 2020 4:21 pm

No disagreement there my friend!

Post by **Hoytman** » Sun. Dec. 27, 2020 4:44 pm

freetown fred wrote: ↑Sun. Dec. 27, 2020 11:29 am BUT------------------- with the stove going, it will produce enough heat to keep the draft. I live in one of the windest parts of CNY & have been up on the roof during sub-zero temps & wind blowin like a banshee--the pipe opening still had warmish draft coming through the top. Course I hate complicatin sht & was younger then---All that is just an old farmers experience.

A lot to be said for an old farmers experience, Fred.

Post by **Hoytman** » Sun. Dec. 27, 2020 4:53 pm

Lightning wrote: ↑Sun. Dec. 27, 2020 3:33 pm Maybe raising the chimney would help, especially if some kind of weird thing is going on because of wind turbulence off the roof.

I would love to hear from people that have actually raised the chimney, what the circumstances were, and how successful it was with maintaining a better draft. I'd like to know if said persons were having draft failures during low and slow burns and that this absolutely fixed the problem.

Not having draft failures but I’m planning on finding out exactly what you stated. I plan on getting a few tiles just to see what happens...whether I waste money or not. LOL!!

I just installed my manometer and zeroed it out with hoses unhooked. Then I hooked them up. No fire in the stove, 4:30pm...getting dark. We’ll see what it looks like in the morning with no fire. Keep in mind...inside masonry chimney.

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Not quite finished making the hoses look better. Not quite satisfied with the routing of the copper either, but it’s hooked up finally.

Zeroed out...on the money, hooked up hoses and between the zero and the first mark when I open both dampers and the doors.

Post by **Hoytman** » Sun. Dec. 27, 2020 4:55 pm

coalder wrote: ↑Sun. Dec. 27, 2020 4:16 pm What I'm trying to say is that no matter how ya try, Ya can't make a rifle with a bent barrel shoot straight.

Jim

Not touching that one.

Post by **Hoytman** » Sun. Dec. 27, 2020 5:01 pm

One more with both doors and both dampers closed. Back to zero.

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I can sit there and watch it for a while and even with what little wind there is I can watch if move from 0 to .01 ... I guess that is the first notch to the right of zero. Yes the line is hooked to the top right of the manometer.

The hose on the left is open to the room. I just have it bending over and down the side exiting just below the unit...mainly because of the curve in the vinyl hose.

Air flap is open on the back too. I forgot about it being open.

Post by **mntbugy** » Sun. Dec. 27, 2020 6:26 pm

Lightning wrote: ↑Sun. Dec. 27, 2020 3:33 pm I would love to hear from people that have actually raised the chimney, what the circumstances were, and how successful it was with maintaining a better draft. I'd like to know if said persons were having draft failures during low and slow burns and that this absolutely fixed the problem.

I raised both my ss pipes one foot. That raised normal draft .01 more . Selkirk paperwork says that also.

Raised each a foot cause it's cheaper to throw away a 1 foot section than something longer. About every 3 years replace last foot of pipe and the cap every other year.

Post by **Lightning** » Sun. Dec. 27, 2020 6:33 pm

Cool.. were you having draft failures and did it solve the problem?

Post by **mntbugy** » Sun. Dec. 27, 2020 7:19 pm

Raised each a foot cause it's cheaper to throw away a 1 foot section than something longer. About every 3 years replace last foot of pipe and the cap every other year.

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Post by **Rob R.** » Mon. Dec. 28, 2020 7:49 am

Testing, testing...

Post by **Hoytman** » Mon. Dec. 28, 2020 9:03 am

Rob, are you saying you think I might need a barometric damper in my stove pipe?

Post by **Rob R.** » Mon. Dec. 28, 2020 9:33 am

Hoytman wrote: ↑Mon. Dec. 28, 2020 9:03 am Rob, are you saying you think I might need a barometric damper in my stove pipe?

I would not put one in unless you observe big swings in draft that make it challenging to keep the stove at the desired temperature.

I get a LOT of wind at my place and as a result, the draft changes considerably. I posted the video just to show what the wind can do.

Post by **Hoytman** » Mon. Jan. 23, 2023 1:41 pm

I know…old thread…(was researching some old threads)

Lee,
I’m not had any reversals (4yrs burning) that I know of. Least none that would cause CO detectors to go off.

Would you want to proceed with this test by adding some chimney height to a chimney and see what the results might be?

I have two (2) 24” lengths of tile that I bought. My chimney is only 10 ft above the thimble. Total chimney height is approximately 14-15ft from firebox floor. Roof is fairly easy access on this ranch style home.

If someone could recommend something to seal the joints that was easily removable, cheap, and could possibly hold the joints together (wide Flex Seal tape$$??)…speak up.

Otherwise…I’ll leave this thread to die.

Post by **Rob R.** » Mon. Jan. 23, 2023 1:51 pm

Bill, how far does your chimney extend past the roof peak?

A few years ago there was a guy on here that was experiencing draft failures with his Hitzer. He solved it by adding a barometric damper - our theory at the time was that the baro leaked enough warm air from the room to maintain the draft.

Post by **CoalisCoolxWarm** » Mon. Jan. 23, 2023 3:18 pm

Just to make sure I got this right. Are you looking to add chimney tiles (liner?) without adding chimney blocks?

If so, I wouldn't think that 2 full liners would be very stable. 3/4-1 liner isn't too bad, though it will cool much faster, which is not helpful for draft

Chimney Draft Test

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