Chimney install

 
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mntbugy
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Post by mntbugy » Fri. Jul. 10, 2020 9:47 am

Tom, the support box goes on the top part of roof trusses. Smoke pipe has two wings to match roof pitch.

Cut hole in roof, frame up around hole as per instructions thru the new opening. Fun part.

Install bat wing pipe. Secure to frame work. Insulation shield install from ceiling to roof. Add pipe inside for clearances, and pipe to correct height.


 
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tcalo
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Post by tcalo » Fri. Jul. 10, 2020 12:57 pm

mntbugy wrote:
Fri. Jul. 10, 2020 9:47 am
Tom, the support box goes on the top part of roof trusses. Smoke pipe has two wings to match roof pitch.

Cut hole in roof, frame up around hole as per instructions thru the new opening. Fun part.

Install bat wing pipe. Secure to frame work. Insulation shield install from ceiling to roof. Add pipe inside for clearances, and pipe to correct height.
Sorry...still confused. The support boxes I've seen for vaulted ceilings are just straight boxes. Everything I've read says to cut the square, frame out hole, install the support box and trim level with the roof. What are these wings you describe? Also, I assume the framing would go on the roof rafters as you describe, not the ceiling joists. Basically...how in the hell is there room to frame out the support box in the 12x12 hole cut in the roof without opening the roof or ceiling up more? I hope this makes sense. Am I missing something?

 
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mntbugy
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Post by mntbugy » Fri. Jul. 10, 2020 3:22 pm

Selkirk makes the bat wing pipe.

Other companies makes support boxes.

You missed we're I said " fun part".

Trim ring and flashing hides you
" boo boo's".

 
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tcalo
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Post by tcalo » Fri. Jul. 10, 2020 6:21 pm

mntbugy wrote:
Fri. Jul. 10, 2020 3:22 pm
Selkirk makes the bat wing pipe.

Other companies makes support boxes.

You missed we're I said " fun part".

Trim ring and flashing hides you
" boo boo's".
Thanks for the info, greatly appreciated!

 
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LeoinRI
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Post by LeoinRI » Fri. Jul. 10, 2020 8:24 pm

Here's an example of an older batwing from Selkirk. Photo taken of bottom side. Note metal tabs to assure separation from combustibles.

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tcalo
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Post by tcalo » Fri. Jul. 10, 2020 8:27 pm

Thanks for the photo, that better explains it. Man...this will be fun trying to frame out for the Support box!

 
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Post by tcalo » Mon. Jul. 13, 2020 10:25 am

I hope this doesn’t get buried in here...any suggestions on good stove pipe? I’ve used Metal-Fab in the past and wasn’t thrilled with it. About 10 years old and I’ve replaced the the top section of double wall ss pipe once and the cap about 3 times already. Could be the Long Island weather, but it should last longer than that. It had a 10 year warranty but it was like pulling teeth to get replacement parts. It states coal use is covered right in the warranty, but they fought me every step on the replacement parts because I burn coal. I couldn’t deal with them directly either, I had to go through a chimney company. Such bs!!!


 
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Post by scalabro » Mon. Jul. 13, 2020 8:52 pm

AL294C pipe

 
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Post by tcalo » Tue. Jul. 14, 2020 5:47 pm

Ok...I may have found an easier way to handle this support box problem. I made a model which I hope better explains it. I'll frame out the brace for the support box by itself using the support box and ceiling joists for measurements. Then I'll cut a square opening in the ceiling to fit the support box. I'm hoping I'll be able to fit this brace through the ceiling opening and secure it to the joists without making the hole any bigger than the support box requires. The brace will already be made, I would just need to secure the ends of it (shown in orange) to the ceiling joists (shown in red). I'm not sure how much room is between the sheetrock ceiling and the roof itself. I won't know until I cut the hole. Forgive me...but I assume there are separate roof rafters and ceiling joists? I plan on securing the brace to the ceiling joists so I can secure the sheetrock and trim bracket around the hole to the framing. I assume it doesn't matter if I secure the brace to the joists or rafters? I also assume the insulation can run right up to the support box without issue?

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Hoytman
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Post by Hoytman » Sun. Jul. 26, 2020 2:39 pm

scalabro wrote:
Mon. Jul. 13, 2020 8:52 pm
AL294C pipe
Hey Scott, would care to elaborate on this product? Here or via pm...doesn’t matter. I’ve seen you mention this multiple times, but I never can remember the numbers.

How does this compare to 304/316/316T?

Why this versus others, or versus clay that everyone knows can handle coal for years?

I’m asking because I have some cracked liners...that likely aren’t going to hurt anything, but nearly every sweep I’ve spoken to wants to remove. I am skeptical because of burning coal and seeing some SS pipes corroded away inside of 10 years.

Right now I have 8”x8” clay at about 13’-14’ above the stove (1-90* elbow and another 90* turn from the clay thimble into a straight run clay liner) and I would like to add at least 2ft, maybe 4ft for better draft. Inside the home masonry chimney...middle of living area. Not sure I’ll ever go back to wood, but I did just buy a wood stove I always wanted for cheap...Lopi Liberty 6” breach.

I realize matching stove is ideal but an 8” insulated liner can be stuffed with a 6” if need be. Never was hip on having to change a liner each time I decide to switch a stove. It’s just an added expense doing that in my book. Once I decide what fuel I will stick with then I can think about matching the chimney all the way out for optimum draft...if it would become necessary.

I just can’t see completely removing a perfectly good masonry chimney and patching that hole it would leave. Doesn’t make sense to move a chimney two feet latch a hole and cut another for a straight run of pipe...even though I know that’s best.

Any links to this pipe you support?

 
scalabro
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Post by scalabro » Wed. Jul. 29, 2020 11:11 am

All kinds of info on the web WRT AL294C.

In a nutshell it’s the most corrosion resistant alloy for a coal stove.

Some will argue that the alloy’s temp limit can be reached but my base heaters stove pipes have never reached it.

 
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Post by Hoytman » Fri. Jul. 31, 2020 11:18 am


 
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tcalo
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Post by tcalo » Fri. Sep. 18, 2020 11:20 am

Our closing is getting close and so is the cool weather. I'm still researching different chimney systems.

I currently have a 10 year old Metal-Fab system. It's held up pretty well. I have gone through a few caps and one upper most section of pipe, but I assume that's to be expected with the humid Long Island weather. The flashing has rusted quite bad leaving a nice rust streak down my roof. I had to paint it, must be a different material than the actual pipe. Fighting to get parts covered under the 10 year warranty was tough, but I got it done.

I'm currently researching Duravent systems too. Both seem pretty comparable to one another. Same materials used...430 stainless steel, so corrosion would most likely be the same. I have zero experience with Duravent so those of you that can help please chime in! I would like to buy American. Metal-Fab is 100% an American company, Duravent had it's roots on U.S. soil but has since gone through a few hands and I believe is now owned by a Netherlands company.

Other suggestions would be appreciated...and as always thank you!!!

 
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Post by tcalo » Sun. Nov. 01, 2020 5:43 pm

We are still waiting on a closing date. This has given me time to think...which can be dangerous! I did mention the house has a pre-fab fireplace with a boxed in chimney. Crap...from what I read. Can't really burn them too hot or long. My plan was to install the Crawford somewhere in the room and use the fireplace occasionally. After thinking about it, how often will I really use the fireplace...on Christmas morning?? I'm sure it would need to be relined. It's original, from 1992. From my research...life expectancy on a pre-fab unit is between 20-30 years.

I've thought about removing the pre-fab all together, closing up the wall and installing the Crawford in it's place. That would save the work of running the flue through the roof. I'm also worried about the weight of 20+ feet of single wall pipe resting on the cast iron base plate, the room has cathedral ceilings. To make the swap I would need to run new double wall class A through the chase. My dilemma is installing the pipe support and installing a clean out somewhere. I can put a support through the wall into the chase, but would have trouble getting to a clean out. I would need to have access to the inside on the chase, maybe via a door from the outside. Another option is to frame out a small enclave behind the stove, run the stove pipe into a tee in the enclave for clean out purposes, then up to a support box. Connect class A from the support box through the chase. The enclave would be a bit of an eye sore, but I'm sure we can dress it up some how.

Another option...probably the most expensive. Install an actual mason fire place and chimney, then get an antique coal insert!!!

I really need to get in the house and poke around for ideas.

Any thoughts?

 
scalabro
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Post by scalabro » Sun. Nov. 01, 2020 5:49 pm

Is it a raised hearth?


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