LL AA-220 Relocation
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- Location: Ithaca, New York
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KAA-4-1 dual fuel boiler
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: former switzer CWW100-sold
- Coal Size/Type: rice
- Other Heating: kerosene for dual fuel Keystoker/unused
Hello and good morning Swyman,
Using my case with my old handfed and the stoker I have now as an example the barometric damper opens up and the firebox is bypassed if the air leaks into the home are large enough.
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The barometric damper/draft regulator allows a constant regulated rate of draft to occur in the firebox with the forced air or natural draft combustion with a hand fed boiler. The weight on the draft door keeps the air in the room from entering the chimney and maintains the amount of draft required to maintain the needed water column reading to maintain the proper draft in the
If you have a downdraft in a chimney it does not allow the chimney draft to work properly and makes it too weak. A chimney extension with a rain cap helps to prevent down drafts as well to allow the chimney and barometric damper to work correctly and maintain negative water column reading at the flue breech.
If the draft as sensed by the barometric damper is too strong (maybe the wind over the chimney top is strong and increasing the draft):, in this case the draft inside the flue, at the breech at the draft regulator is more negative-maybe 1.2" water column.
Since the air in the room is at normal pressure it will be stronger than the pressure inside the flue, so the air inside the room will push the draft regulator door "in and make it open, letting room air into the chimney until, balanced by the setting of the weight
on the moving draft regulators door, the incoming room air enters the flue in enough volume to drop the draft pressure back to its desired setting.
Using my case with my old handfed and the stoker I have now as an example the barometric damper opens up and the firebox is bypassed if the air leaks into the home are large enough.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The barometric damper/draft regulator allows a constant regulated rate of draft to occur in the firebox with the forced air or natural draft combustion with a hand fed boiler. The weight on the draft door keeps the air in the room from entering the chimney and maintains the amount of draft required to maintain the needed water column reading to maintain the proper draft in the
If you have a downdraft in a chimney it does not allow the chimney draft to work properly and makes it too weak. A chimney extension with a rain cap helps to prevent down drafts as well to allow the chimney and barometric damper to work correctly and maintain negative water column reading at the flue breech.
If the draft as sensed by the barometric damper is too strong (maybe the wind over the chimney top is strong and increasing the draft):, in this case the draft inside the flue, at the breech at the draft regulator is more negative-maybe 1.2" water column.
Since the air in the room is at normal pressure it will be stronger than the pressure inside the flue, so the air inside the room will push the draft regulator door "in and make it open, letting room air into the chimney until, balanced by the setting of the weight
on the moving draft regulators door, the incoming room air enters the flue in enough volume to drop the draft pressure back to its desired setting.
- swyman
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- Location: Blissfield, MI
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman-Anderson 260M Leisure Line AA-220 Boiler (FOR SALE)
- Coal Size/Type: Lehigh Pea
This has been a good year, the company I work for (FCA) just announced to us that they are investing $119 million to bring a new engine to be built at my plant and they will be starting immediately. What that means for me is lots of overtime which equals CHIMNEY! Just what I needed and with the chimney and extra $$$ I should be able to upgrade to a higher capacity boiler! If I start a new thread with one of those boring EFM's or S260's, how many pages do you think I'll hit, 2-3? I am very excited to get going!
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Arrg Capt'n ya want the 260 AA or AHS...
Fer heatin' yar big pool...
Fer heatin' yar big pool...
- lsayre
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- Location: Ohio
- Stoker Coal Boiler: AHS S130 Coal Gun
- Coal Size/Type: Lehigh Anthracite Pea
- Other Heating: Resistance Boiler (13.5 KW), ComfortMax 75
I believe the gross output of the AA or AHS 260 will prove to be a tad greater than the DF520, though in this regard they should be close. The AA or AHS will not likely need to be cleaned quite as often, if that matters. But there may be the occasional puff-back.CapeCoaler wrote: ↑Wed. Feb. 27, 2019 11:24 amArrg Capt'n ya want the 260 AA or AHS...
Fer heatin' yar big pool...
- swyman
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- Location: Blissfield, MI
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman-Anderson 260M Leisure Line AA-220 Boiler (FOR SALE)
- Coal Size/Type: Lehigh Pea
Honestly a AA or AHS 260 is my first choice judging by what I have read and nothing against the 520 guys but I think a 520 would be easier to find? What type of coal do either of these take and if multi what works the best? I like how my current boiler runs with buck compared to rice. I seem to have more control and produce a hotter fire with it. I guess I need to go through the archives and read as much as I can about the 2. Only thing I have seen bad about either is the "puff Backs" from the Axeman design but I still really know nothing about. Even newcomer bodyshoppat said he was experiencing them with a brand new unit? Something to be concerned about?CapeCoaler wrote: ↑Wed. Feb. 27, 2019 11:24 amArrg Capt'n ya want the 260 AA or AHS...
Fer heatin' yar big pool...
- swyman
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- Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman-Anderson 260M Leisure Line AA-220 Boiler (FOR SALE)
- Coal Size/Type: Lehigh Pea
Not happening now, I removed the vault I had buried in the yard that housed the valves just at the beginning of this season. I think I am getting old as I don't want to do anymore digging around the house anymore if I don't have to! In the past I was always looking for an excuse to break out the backhoe and dig trenches!CapeCoaler wrote: ↑Wed. Feb. 27, 2019 11:24 amArrg Capt'n ya want the 260 AA or AHS...
Fer heatin' yar big pool...
- lsayre
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- Joined: Wed. Nov. 23, 2005 9:17 pm
- Location: Ohio
- Stoker Coal Boiler: AHS S130 Coal Gun
- Coal Size/Type: Lehigh Anthracite Pea
- Other Heating: Resistance Boiler (13.5 KW), ComfortMax 75
You simply dial them out via changing the ashing settings. I had two or three when I switched from Blaschak to Lehigh, but as soon as I got the Lehigh dialed in, I haven't had a puff-back since.
AA-AHS burn buck and pea. EFM burns buck and rice.
- hotblast1357
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You can burn smaller size nut all the way down to rice. The auger might not like the nut, but a hopper fed eshland or AHS that you fill manually would burn nut.
I’ve never had a puff back. It’s very simple to avoid, it’s just setting the fire height correctly. It’s a no brainer.
Whee you are located, I feel your gonna travel for any brand, so might as go with the best deal.
I’ve never had a puff back. It’s very simple to avoid, it’s just setting the fire height correctly. It’s a no brainer.
Whee you are located, I feel your gonna travel for any brand, so might as go with the best deal.
- lsayre
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- Stoker Coal Boiler: AHS S130 Coal Gun
- Coal Size/Type: Lehigh Anthracite Pea
- Other Heating: Resistance Boiler (13.5 KW), ComfortMax 75
Change coal suppliers and you may find that you have a couple.hotblast1357 wrote: ↑Wed. Feb. 27, 2019 1:52 pmYou can burn smaller size nut all the way down to rice. The auger might not like the nut, but a hopper fed eshland or AHS that you fill manually would burn nut.
I’ve never had a puff back. It’s very simple to avoid, it’s just setting the fire height correctly. It’s a no brainer.
Whee you are located, I feel your gonna travel for any brand, so might as go with the best deal.
- hotblast1357
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- lsayre
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- Coal Size/Type: Lehigh Anthracite Pea
- Other Heating: Resistance Boiler (13.5 KW), ComfortMax 75
I wish I lived in your perfect world.hotblast1357 wrote: ↑Wed. Feb. 27, 2019 1:54 pmI don’t change coal suppliers.
If you set the fire correctly from the beginning you shouldn’t have any.
- hotblast1357
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- Other Heating: air source heat pump, oil furnace
- lsayre
- Member
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- Joined: Wed. Nov. 23, 2005 9:17 pm
- Location: Ohio
- Stoker Coal Boiler: AHS S130 Coal Gun
- Coal Size/Type: Lehigh Anthracite Pea
- Other Heating: Resistance Boiler (13.5 KW), ComfortMax 75
I wasn't referring to the coal. I was referring to setting it up to run perfectly from the very onset. That is always a hunt and peck sort of thing.
- hotblast1357
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I feel like having a background in hand feeding coal stoves gives one a advantage with running these. The fire characteristics are the same. Unlike pot style and flat bed stokers.
- StokerDon
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Amen to that!!!
In my opinion, there is no way to have a serious coal central heating system without a chimney.
As far as what boiler; keep in mind that the AA or AHS 260 has a lot more output than the EFM 520. I think you would be in EFM 700 territory if you want to beat a 260.
Again, I don't think there is any problem with your current boiler. If you put a bigger stoker underneath it, you would have all the heat you need. But, that's a whole conversion thing that you might not want to get involved in.
Chimney first, then you can dream of what coal burner to get.
-Don