LL AA-220 Relocation

 
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lsayre
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Post by lsayre » Thu. Jan. 10, 2019 8:22 am

swyman wrote:
Thu. Jan. 10, 2019 7:14 am
Finally had some cold, well colder weather....low 20's with a strong NNW wind. Absolutely no propane fire cycles and boiler is keeping up on it's own!
Good to hear this!


 
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swyman
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Post by swyman » Thu. Jan. 10, 2019 8:40 am

lsayre wrote:
Thu. Jan. 10, 2019 8:22 am
Good to hear this!
Larry, do you think I would benefit to changing the flue draft to .04 from .05?

 
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Post by lsayre » Thu. Jan. 10, 2019 9:56 am

swyman wrote:
Thu. Jan. 10, 2019 8:40 am
Larry, do you think I would benefit to changing the flue draft to .04 from .05?
I have no knowledge of power vents.

 
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swyman
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Post by swyman » Thu. Jan. 10, 2019 11:47 am

lsayre wrote:
Thu. Jan. 10, 2019 9:56 am
I have no knowledge of power vents.
I don't see where that would make a difference...draft at breech is what it is weather it's being pulled from a chimney or power vent correct? The baro sets the breech draft and my theory is -.04 is a slower draft than -.05 but I don't know how much? Also not sure if it would affect the over fire draft it I went down to -.04. Guess I'll have to experiment.

 
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Post by hotblast1357 » Thu. Jan. 10, 2019 12:19 pm

Leave it alone, it’s working.

 
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Post by CapeCoaler » Thu. Jan. 10, 2019 7:44 pm

It is working well!...
LOL...

 
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Post by McGiever » Thu. Jan. 10, 2019 11:10 pm

swyman wrote:
Thu. Jan. 10, 2019 7:14 am
Finally had some cold, well colder weather....low 20's with a strong NNW wind. Absolutely no propane fire cycles and boiler is keeping up on it's own! One thing that confuses me is I installed a foam board cover for the refractory cover and it's still 90* in the boiler room? I thought for sure that cover was radiating all that heat but could it be coming from the 1 1/2" pipes? ANyway was good to finally check settings under a heavy load and I have the fire settings as close to perfect as I have ever had them. Full grate of fire and my draft almost to factory spec...... .01 over fire and .05 at breech. If I went to .04 at breech would that slow down the draft just a fuzz to get more heat absorption in the water?
hotblast1357 wrote:
Thu. Jan. 10, 2019 12:19 pm
Leave it alone, it’s working.
CapeCoaler wrote:
Thu. Jan. 10, 2019 7:44 pm
It is working well!...
LOL...
And it will never be the same as a chimney! A good chimney gets cleaned once a year even if it doesn't need cleaned.

Performance of a PV degrades minute by minute, day by day. :)


 
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swyman
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Post by swyman » Fri. Jan. 11, 2019 7:03 am

McGiever wrote:
Thu. Jan. 10, 2019 11:10 pm

Performance of a PV degrades minute by minute, day by day. :)
True statement! I feel it is in my best interest to have a chimney built. I need to get a chimney quote so I will know for sure how much I need to save and set a fund aside... it is an inconvenience cleaning for sure.

 
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Post by hotblast1357 » Fri. Jan. 11, 2019 7:11 am

It did not cost me much to build mine.. but if your uncomfortable doing it yourself I understand.

 
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Post by swyman » Fri. Jan. 11, 2019 9:46 am

Here is a pic of where it would have to go. I have the first overhang from the new addition and then the massive overhang at the peak of the gable end. How would you do it? Remove the siding from that side of the house and block up attaching to house every so many feet and just cut the overhangs and flash around? I would just want to make sure it would last. And how do you come out of the basement to attach, just a triple walled piece above ground to tie into the base of the chimney?
20180809_082738.jpg
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hotblast1357
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Post by hotblast1357 » Fri. Jan. 11, 2019 9:50 am

Yes to the siding and overhangs.

You need to dig down and put a good size footer in, a lot of weight in a chimney, and then you put the flue through the concrete wall under grade.

 
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swyman
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Post by swyman » Fri. Jan. 11, 2019 9:55 am

hotblast1357 wrote:
Fri. Jan. 11, 2019 9:50 am


You need to dig down and put a good size footer in, a lot of weight in a chimney, and then you put the flue through the concrete wall under grade.
So would you put the flue in the footer or dig really deep and start the block say 3' below grade and put the flue in that? How would you clan that, by taking the flue apart from the inside? Seems like a lot of dust would settle there.

 
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Post by hotblast1357 » Fri. Jan. 11, 2019 10:23 am

You should go down below frost, put a pad in as a footer, then just start stacking your blocks. The bottom block gets the clean out, this is usually at floor grade inside or a little higher, then just stack your block and flue up as you go, and put the round flue in through the wall where you need it to go, as high as possible I advise.

 
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Post by CapeCoaler » Fri. Jan. 11, 2019 10:37 am

And Insulate between block and round tile...

 
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Post by lzaharis » Fri. Jan. 11, 2019 11:29 am

Hello and good morning swyman,

I need to caution you about breaking through the gable end of the roof as flashing deteriorates quickly as in a been there done that moment with my place as the previous owner was not one to spend money.

Over time the heavy flashing will break down and leak in to the roof and cause water damage.

You may want to consider doing it this way which is the only right thing that was done with my chimney besides my installing the chimney extension.

My 16 foot tall 8" by 12" tile lined chimney is a stand off chimney where it is held in place to reduce wind load on it as it is exposed by a long weldment that is lag bolted to the end wall of the eave of my home.
The chimney rests on the slab on grade pour with a shallow footer for the back room addition which was their "summer kitchen room".

When you sink a foundation slab or block with a rebar cage in it to strengthen the slab or foundation block as is done with crank up antenna masts or water pumping windmills you need to go really deep.

If at all possible; It would be worth your while to build a stand off chimney with one or more weldments bolted to the wall of the home to hold the chimney in place with strap iron formed to hold the 8 by 12 block and connected to the tube steel weldment that is welded to the plate that is lag bolted to several exterior studs.

Doing it in this way avoids breaking through your new roof and gable end and prevents any possible water damage to the roof on the gable end or on the long wall side of the home.

The mason/carpenter you hire will have to remove some siding to install the lag bolts and blocks and reattach the remaining siding after the lag bolts are put in place with the wooden blocks that cross at least 2 studs to help in anchoring the weldment to the side of the home.

Perhaps paying an architect for an hour of his or her time for this is a good investment as it will be properly designed to prevent problems from occurring from wind loads and any possible water damage if you can take advantage of a stand off block chimney.

My chimney cleanout is outside as I have no basement.


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