OUR BEST Base Burner

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Sunny Boy
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Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood range 208, # 6 base heater, 2 Modern Oak 118.
Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace
Location: Central NY

Post By: Sunny Boy » Sun. Sep. 30, 2018 3:25 pm

tsb wrote:
Sun. Sep. 30, 2018 2:10 pm
Ok ! Thought I was missing something.
Nope, your not missing something. I was just too lazy to bend down and reach for the handle on the floor, or put a hook in the wall. :D

{Paul
Last edited by Sunny Boy on Sun. Sep. 30, 2018 6:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.


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Merc300d
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Post By: Merc300d » Sun. Sep. 30, 2018 5:42 pm

Alpine board , let’s see that polished nickel job when it’s finished

alpineboard
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Post By: alpineboard » Tue. Oct. 02, 2018 8:01 pm

Knew I had those boards around for a good reason, someday.
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HPIM0587.JPG

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joeq
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Hand Fed Coal Stove: G111, Southard Robertson
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Post By: joeq » Wed. Oct. 03, 2018 12:10 am

We'll call you MacGyver, or Jackie Chan. Making do with your surroundings. Good job.

alpineboard
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Post By: alpineboard » Wed. Oct. 03, 2018 1:42 pm

First lite, Just a few pieces of wood, house doors and windows open, the new paint needs to gas off. Using an IR thermometer , when up to heat, was getting 450 to 500F at the upper sides, and 500 to 550F at both sides of the back top of base burner rear. 190 to 200F stack temp. Very impressive that after the flue gasses go down and under the base bottom, they come up to the back again and still have 500 F. It probably helps that the 1/2 the back portion is shared with the immediate flame output.
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HPIM0594.JPG

alpineboard
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Stoker Coal Boiler: Van Wert 600
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Post By: alpineboard » Wed. Oct. 03, 2018 1:45 pm

And effortless to lite. I purposely stuffed those chunks in with a small amount of kindling going to see if would take. Dry wood helps.

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joeq
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Post By: joeq » Wed. Oct. 03, 2018 2:05 pm

Careful of your damper openings. It's easy to get into an overheat condition, and burn the paint off your barrel. Looks like fun.:)

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Sunny Boy
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Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
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Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace
Location: Central NY

Post By: Sunny Boy » Wed. Oct. 03, 2018 8:01 pm

I see the tilt jacking worked for ya, AB.

The stove looks real good,...even if it is just a wood fire. :D

Paul


alpineboard
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Post By: alpineboard » Thu. Oct. 04, 2018 9:15 am

Newly redone/painted Base burner. I have done this before with smaller coal and wood stoves, repainted them and fired them up. It takes some time, for the paint to gas off, stop smoking , and stop smelling. Knowing this all depends on how high a temperature you are running at, and duration of burn, and how many days/nights.
I am bringing the baseburner up to complete full temperature with out over firing it, (no burnt paint). And also noticing that the baseburner regulates itself very well.
So my open ended question is, due to the larger size of the Baseburner, surface area, etc, How many days/night/firing will it take for the paint to Stop Gassing off ?, re: smell.
Just trying to get an idea of what I am in for, as I am doing this when no one else is around in the house, windows/doors open. Am thinking, 5 or 10 days. Just trying to keep Peace in the household.

2nd question, Using an IR thermometer, and after complete warm up of baseburner, I got a close to 500f on the very bottom of the base of stove. Has any one had a need or desire to put a fan circulating underneath the stove, possible thermo couple controlled ?, It seems that the heat was having a more difficult time with convection from the bottom. The tile floor is 1.25 to 1.5 inches in thickness.
thanks, R

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joeq
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Post By: joeq » Thu. Oct. 04, 2018 9:44 am

Haven't seen a pic of your set-up, but if your stove is a base-burner, and directing heat under your ash pan, I can't believe your stove is registering 500° at the bottom of it, along with the barrel temp. of the same.
My G111 doesn't perform exactly as your stove, but directs the heat to chambers on the side of the ash pan. When in this mode, the chambers don't see much over 200°, when the barrel temp is 400+.
If your tiles are situated on a wooden frame, maybe you could come up with some type of deflector under it, like my Surdiac had from the factory
painted surdiac 007.JPG

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Sunny Boy
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Joined: Mon. Nov. 11, 2013 1:40 pm
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood range 208, # 6 base heater, 2 Modern Oak 118.
Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace
Location: Central NY

Post By: Sunny Boy » Thu. Oct. 04, 2018 9:59 am

joeq wrote:
Thu. Oct. 04, 2018 9:44 am
Haven't seen a pic of your set-up, but if your stove is a base-burner, and directing heat under your ash pan, I can't believe your stove is registering 500° at the bottom of it, along with the barrel temp. of the same.
My G111 doesn't perform exactly as your stove, but directs the heat to chambers on the side of the ash pan. When in this mode, the chambers don't see much over 200°, when the barrel temp is 400+.
If your tiles are situated on a wooden frame, maybe you could come up with some type of deflector under it, like my Surdiac had from the factory
painted surdiac 007.JPG

It's easy to do with just a wood fire, Joe.

When I used wood in the range, the oven temps (it's the same as the base chamber in a base heater) were about 100F higher than it normally does with coal. Same happened when I first fired up the GW #6 base heater with dry wood - it got much hotter overall surface temps than it normally gets with coal.

Paul

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joeq
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Joined: Sat. Feb. 11, 2012 11:53 am
Hand Fed Coal Stove: G111, Southard Robertson
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Location: Northern CT

Post By: joeq » Thu. Oct. 04, 2018 10:58 am

OK, I understand a wood fire will accelerate faster than a coal fire, and I can see his situation happening during initial fire-up. But if an established fire has been burning for a lengthy amount of time, (wood or coal) wouldn't there be a cooling effect during routing of the gasses from the coal bed area to the base chamber? Maybe it has something to do with the stove design of the shorter rear pipe, relative to the pot/base chamber location?

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Sunny Boy
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Posts: 15914
Joined: Mon. Nov. 11, 2013 1:40 pm
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood range 208, # 6 base heater, 2 Modern Oak 118.
Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace
Location: Central NY

Post By: Sunny Boy » Thu. Oct. 04, 2018 12:24 pm

The wood fire high stove temps happen every time it's refueled. That's part of the problem with a wood fire - it's wide temp swings. As you know, a coal fire is more constant in it's heat output. Except,....

At startup, when the firebox has a full load of fresh coal burning, the heat volume is higher. That first coal fire in my range can get the oven temps close to what a wood fire does every time it's refueled. But as time goes by, the coal fuel bed is not all fresh coal pumping out the same amount of BTUs. Sure, we add more coal on top as needed, but a lot of the lower levels of the firebed are made up of used coal that is not yet fully ash, but not able to put out as much BTUs as it did when it was all fresh coal from the grates on up. So the heat volume of the entire coal firebed tends to drop off some after that first fire at startup. You may have noticed the same when you start your stove on coal ?????

Remember,.. it's not just fuel temps that heat a stove. A wooden match burns just as hot as the wood in a firebox, but guess which puts out far more BTUs ? ;)

Paul

alpineboard
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Post By: alpineboard » Sun. Oct. 07, 2018 9:02 am

Understood on the wood coal comparison and volume of energy stored/released.

I did my first burn with coal, need it to be out by the time folks get home, re: new paint still smelling (slightly).

So from a fresh start, put in approx. 15 pounds, probably 1/3 of the burn pot.

Got up to temp very nicely. Almost the same numbers on temp, slightly lower, 400 to 450 side burn chamber, 400 to 500 on back burner. But the base was still heating to 450 to 480F, so a deflector plate is definitely happening.

Outside temp was 55 to 60f, with blue skies, so high barometric pressure, so a reasonable draft for a semi warm day outside. I was getting the stove up to its peak operating temperature, without overheating it. Nice even low orange glow with the coal.

From looking at the coal burning from underneath thru the grates, ash pan door open, everything appeared well, no grate overheating. I see now, why and how the larger space between the grates works so well.

I believe that I am operating this stove the way it should be operated. Are my base temperatures higher than what other folks with base burners are experiencing? As someone stated earlier. I think I am ok with these temps, and this is why they are called "base burners".

Central, 2 story, 16" cement block, 8 inch round clay flue tile chimney.

alpineboard
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Post By: alpineboard » Sun. Oct. 07, 2018 9:12 am

On agreement with the wood fire will burn hotter if you want it to, as compared to coal. Lot of factors on that statement, but thinking the air flow is higher, and am not using a wood burning grate to slow the air flow down. Might fab a wood grate and see.


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