Stove designs

joeq wrote: ↑

Wed. Mar. 21, 2018 10:22 pm

DD, you said "SR-71". AAhhhhh. The biggest and baddest, and my mostest favorite hot-rod in the entire world.
(A design drawn on the back of a restaurant napkin in the late 50s)

I bought the book about the Skunk Works Kelly Johnson and the whole program a very fun read. If you get to Dallas TX sometime swing by Love Field as smaller airport outside DWF. They have a nice aeronautics museum with a bunch of planes and some stuff from the space program. They also have a separate room with the engine out a SR-71 and a cockpit trainer. They would not let me get close enough to read the mach meter but got a clear enough photo that I know 3 is not nearly the end. It was ages ago so no idea where it is now. they said it goes mach 3.65 in a round about way by giving altitude distance and time. At 85,000 feet mach 1 is 659 mph. The real question is how fast does it go that they don't talk about? The military is very good at holding info like that very close to themselves only. I do know the number 4 was not near the end of the meter and 6 sticks in my mind. Knowing most gauges are most accurate between 50% and 75% of full scale that means 4.5 a likely number. Or target number at least. If the air frame was only good for 4 then the end of the gauge would have bee closer to 5 and a top reading.

When I run my Jotul 507 I only see about 150° stack temp. I don't see a need for baffles when the flue temp is already so low.

David

David... wrote: ↑

Thu. Mar. 22, 2018 12:06 pm

When I run my Jotul 507 I only see about 150° stack temp. I don't see a need for baffles when the flue temp is already so low.
David

Like mentioned above Dave, some stoves could utilize them more than others. What year stove is your Jotul? I had heard they bought out Surdiac in the 80s. Was wondering about the similarities.

DD, I don't want to take away from your thread, but have to comment on the SR.
When I was in the USAF in the 70s, I went TDY over to the Mildenhall England for a short tour to assist with the T-56s on the C-130, and I couldn't wait to go, cause they had Blackbirds stationed over there, at the time. And they were still top secret. In our O/H shop, they had a J-58, that was roped off, covered with a tarp, and protected with an armed guard around it. Today, here in CT, we have the Air Museum, and I believe they have the same engine on display, to be viewed by all. The J-58 isn't really that elaborate an engine, but a basic dual spool Pratt motor from the day. It did have some special alloys in it, but the main claim to fame, (not counting the multiple stages of after-burners), was just as you already mentioned, the variable nose cone, that went from sub-sonic to super sonic. And of course the excellent aerodynamics of the fuselage.
Unfortunately the whole time I was assisting at Mildenhall, I never got to see one Blackbird. They only flew at night, but when they took off, the barracks would rattle like a KC-135 in full water injection on take off. 'Cept with the SR, after liftoff the pilot would hit the ABs, and within seconds, they were gone!
As for top speed, I heard in the early days during high speed testing, they tried opening her up to see what its limit was, but the pilot and aircraft never returned. They think it burnt up or disintegrated from excessive heat build-up.
(OK, sorry, got caught up in the moment. I'll shut up now.)

joeq no problem with a thread side track here and there. We are both passionate about that old bird. I remember well a ride given tome in a Stearman did some loops and rolls but told him to keep them positive Gs as much as possible LOL. If not would have needed a hose to clean the cockpit. I am find of fond about old steam locomotives as well.

Hi, we have moved into a house with several stoves one in my office a jotul 507. I have set the stove going but smoke leaked! From the fire I have had so far it is amazing so I want to restore / use it.

The door seals and top lid gaskets are missing, I plan to replace them.

I have looked at a schematic drawing and we do not have the griddle plate handle or what looks like a cast insert for the door above the ash pan.

Do I need both parts to run the stove?

How do you fuel the stove without smoke leaking? I am used to a wood/ multi fuel stove but not a closed unit like the jotul. So I'm am not sure how you light and fuel it. The top door pin is missing and its cracked above the door. I think I can replace the pin. Not sure about the crack but it looks minor and doesn't look.as if it will leak smoke - it's hard to tell where the leaks are!

Any help would be much appreciated. Here are some pics of the stove.

Your problem is lack of draft. With decent draft the leakiest old stove will not emit smoke into the room.

It looks like the stove vents into a fireplace. The prime suspect is how well the seal is to that fireplace from the stove. Clean and inspect everything.

A large outside chimney will also be slow to heat and draft adequately, even if clean.

Welcome JW.

A piece of smoldering string passed closely, and slowly, over all door edges and seams will show you where the leaks are.

Are you starting the stove on wood, or BBQ charcoal, to get a good hot firebed going before you start adding coal ?

As Franco said the stove pipe must be sealed into the chimney opening or else room air will be drawn directly into the chimney and thus bypassing the stove, which will reduce the draft strength inside the stove to prevent smoke leaks. If all is properly sealed so the chimney drafts well, even a leaky stove will leak the slightly higher room air pressure into the stove, not leak smoke out of it.

Paul

I cant remember the members name and I know I should (possibly snowman???), but someone posted a nice post here years ago on how to use refractory cement on these so you can fill them up to the door. Theres a part or two that are always bad and they are not needed with the cement.

Hi everyone

Thank you for your comments they are most helpful. I can see where the stove leaks... basically out of all of the doors and the top. I will check if it also leaks out of the joint to the chimney, but I don't think it does. It basically vents straight outside to a metal chimney. The chimney is quite short and we live in a dip so this may not help the draft situation. The smoke leaks make it unusable - I've had a cold day today.

More to follow,

Jane

Welcome to the FORUM. Do it slow J. Yep, gaskets, real good clean out, string or incense to check for draft--YES--snowman has a Jotul or 2. Take it one step at a time J & you'll be real satisfied come next winter. Some pix of outside chimney set up would be real helpful. Ya got a good stove there!

Hi everyone,

Here is a picture of the flue pipe it's quite short. I will clean everything and check the flue for any blockages , although smoke was coming out. The silver foil is my makeshift repair for the vent that had dropped down. The house had been unoccupied for 2 years so I guess the owner did that to stop birds nesting. We did find a dead bird in the fire - eek.


Jane

I've read a little about draft and wonder if my flue is too short. I don't think I have enough room in the house to bring it inside, without re-positioning the stove, but I could extend it up. I also think the flue is very close to the plastic windows and guttering. Is this normal or am I at risk of melting the plastic or breaking the glass. The previous owners DIY is mixed in quality some is really good whilst some DIY projects are very debatable. But then I used kitchen foil to test drive the stove!

I think your chimney looks fine Jane Especially if it's 6" double wall. Would another section or 2 help it draft better. Hard for me to say. Here's a photo of mine, in it's "unfinished" state, but you get the idea. I have no problems with any plastic melting.

Many thanks for the feedback. My flue may be ok then. I will give it a good clean, reseal and lets see if that solves it. It is very cold in the room today.

Freetown fred, I see you have horses... I'm looking to return to horses after a 25 year gap! We have finally got land to keep them on and a forest (for logs) to keep me warm.

will take it slow, but need to get warm asap.