Poor Man's Alternative to Nickel Plating

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Pauliewog
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Post By: Pauliewog » Wed. Jun. 10, 2015 10:39 am

nealkas wrote:
Pauliewog wrote: I was thinking of putting electrodes in the hot tub so I could dip the whole stove before disassembly
I decided to keep that thought to myself. bop2

Paulie
Tell them it is a tanning aid. :P
Now ..... that is a great idea ! The residue looks pretty close to a spray tan color. If I crank up the heat in the hot tub it may bake right in .

Thanks for the tip.

Paulie


nealkas
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Post By: nealkas » Wed. Jun. 10, 2015 2:13 pm

Pauliewog wrote:
Now ..... that is a great idea ! The residue looks pretty close to a spray tan color. If I crank up the heat in the hot tub it may bake right in .

Thanks for the tip.

Paulie
If I get a subpoena from a divorce lawyer, I'll know why. :roll:

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SWPaDon
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Post By: SWPaDon » Thu. Jun. 11, 2015 6:42 am

Pauliewog wrote:
SWPaDon wrote:
Here may be your electrolysis tank, Paulie: **Broken Link(S) Removed**
Don
I will tell you how small this world is ! Those totes belong to my customer. I placed them outside when I moved their warehouse :D

I have a little bigger tank in mind.

Paulie
Yes, small world it is my friend.

I like how you moved the warehouse. :up:

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nortcan
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Post By: nortcan » Tue. Jun. 16, 2015 6:27 pm

Paul you did a super nice job on those rusted parts. I love the look :!: Bravo.

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Pauliewog
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Post By: Pauliewog » Wed. Jun. 17, 2015 1:29 am

Thanks Pierre..... The finial is from the Hero Dockash that I am working on now for my daughter.

Paulie

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warminmn
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Post By: warminmn » Wed. Jun. 17, 2015 8:05 am

I'm slow to catch up reading this.

I wouldnt put the cast iron parts in the bake off w/o really thinking it over. The fast heating and cooling of it could crack them, or possible warping. The bakeoff I have used was over 1400 so maybe this would be different, but I saw damaged parts more than once.

Slowly raising the heat, then letting it cool with the door closed may help, if you do try it.

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Pauliewog
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Post By: Pauliewog » Wed. Jun. 17, 2015 10:03 am

warminmn wrote:I'm slow to catch up reading this.

I wouldnt put the cast iron parts in the bake off w/o really thinking it over. The fast heating and cooling of it could crack them, or possible warping. The bakeoff I have used was over 1400 so maybe this would be different, but I saw damaged parts more than once.

Slowly raising the heat, then letting it cool with the door closed may help, if you do try it.


Very good point, I do have a cracked base section from the Acme Carbon parts stove that was cracked and repaired poorly . I will polish it up and use that as the test piece.

I can ramp the burnoff up slow, and turn off the misters, but you are correct! ......... Its not worth the risk of ruining a good part, just to test the durability of their paint. :D

Thanks for bring that to my attention. Sometimes we stand in the forest and don't see the trees !!

Paulie
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CoalisCoolxWarm
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Post By: CoalisCoolxWarm » Sun. Jan. 24, 2016 8:00 am

For those of us without a powder coat oven at our disposal...I've cured high temp black spray paint by lighting a fire inside the furnace when still outdoors.

Black wouldn't really show, but does the clear take on contaminants, like soot, ash, smoke, etc?

Does it off-gas, like the black does?

I didn't know they had high temp clear, don't really do too much, but I'm thinking it might be nice to go over black high temp???

I know this is an old thread, but the stove p*rn alone is worth bringing it up again :)


CapeCoaler
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Post By: CapeCoaler » Sun. Jan. 24, 2016 10:37 am

there is always the cooking oven in every house for small parts testing...
Nice move on the warehouse...
Plating only makes it pretty, works just fine without it...
Amazing what they can move and jack...
Old lighthouses of brick over 3000 ton...
Ivory soap for lube...
Just male sure the steels are in the right place... ;)

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Pauliewog
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Coal Size/Type: Stove, Chesnut, Pea, Rice / Anthracite
Location: Pittston, Pennsylvania

Post By: Pauliewog » Mon. Jan. 25, 2016 6:20 pm

CoalisCoolxWarm wrote:For those of us without a powder coat oven at our disposal...I've cured high temp black spray paint by lighting a fire inside the furnace when still outdoors.

Black wouldn't really show, but does the clear take on contaminants, like soot, ash, smoke, etc?

Does it off-gas, like the black does?

I didn't know they had high temp clear, don't really do too much, but I'm thinking it might be nice to go over black high temp???

I know this is an old thread, but the stove p*rn alone is worth bringing it up again :)
According to the directions on the clear, after drying (about 1-1/2 hour) you cure it in 3 steps.
#1. 200* for 30 min, let cool for 30 min.
#2. 400* for 30 min. let cool for 30 min.
#3. 600* for 30 min. let cool for 30 min.

I waited until the following day to cure it, and didn't notice any outgassing. I don't see any problem curing it with a small fire in the stove first, letting it go out and gradually bring the temperature up again.

As far as taking on contaminants, the parts are already dry before the cure, and the trim pieces rarely see temperatures exceeding 500*

If you are looking for a higher gloss finish on your black high temp paint, it's worth a try, I prefer using stove polish after paint, or just stove polish alone.

I did hang one of the footrests inside my stoker for about 2 hours with no problems.

Paulie
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Pauliewog
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Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Alaska 140 Dual Paddle Feed
Baseburners & Antiques: Fame Rosemont #20, Home Stove Works #25, Glenwood #6, Happy Thought Oak, Merry Bride #214, Sunnyside, Worlds Argand #114, New Golden Sun , & About 30 others.
Coal Size/Type: Stove, Chesnut, Pea, Rice / Anthracite
Location: Pittston, Pennsylvania

Post By: Pauliewog » Mon. Jan. 25, 2016 6:56 pm

CapeCoaler wrote:there is always the cooking oven in every house for small parts testing...

If using the cooking oven I found it best to wait until the wife is not at home
bop2

Nice move on the warehouse...

Thanks, That one wasn't bad, didn't have to go thru town. :D

Plating only makes it pretty, works just fine without it...

There is no doubt, I have heated my shop with quite a few stoves missing their trim. :D

This technique is not as bright as nickel with a chrome flash, but it gives it a nice patina, more like a 100 year old stove that was used for 10+ years.

It is a nice alternative to silver paint, at a fraction of the cost of nickel plating.

Amazing what they can move and jack...
Old lighthouses of brick over 3000 ton...
Ivory soap for lube...
Just male sure the steels are in the right place... ;)

Those guys are in a league of their own !

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Scottscoaled
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Post By: Scottscoaled » Tue. Feb. 16, 2016 9:41 am

This post needs a bump

coalnewbie
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Post By: coalnewbie » Tue. Mar. 01, 2016 11:03 am

Did mine three years ago and it's holding up just fine. Last winter it was really cranking at times.
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Pauliewog
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Post By: Pauliewog » Sun. Dec. 31, 2017 4:07 pm

In a recent thread a question came up asking if rusted nickel trim can be brought back to life until funds were available to have it replated.

I'm still searching for a bonnet to complete the Hero Dockash. Meanwhile I wanted to post a picture of the Poor Man's Nickel that I polished up a few years back installed on the stove.
Screenshot_2017-12-31-15-43-53.png
I did start making a temporary removable top for it and if time permits I will finish trimming it out. I'm sure as soon as the temporary top is finished........ A bonnet will magically appear. :lol:
20171231_153903.jpg
Paulie

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Freddy
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Post By: Freddy » Sun. Dec. 31, 2017 7:23 pm

Sweet Mama! Looks great!


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