Brunco Hearthglow Stove, Troubles Burning Anthracite
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New to the forum. I have a Brunco Hearthglow that came with the house. I called Brunk's, the distributor in Ohio, and was told that it's better with bituminous coal, but I don't know if anyone sells that here (Northern MD). The only success I had was when I used stove coal mixed with nut. The stove coal did actually over-fire but that was because I was afraid of it not lighting.
I used to work in a fire science laboratory, so I'm not a complete novice, basically I am using a multi-fuel stove that is better with soft coal/ wood and I want to know what I can do to improve it's performance with anthracite. Any ideas guys?
I used to work in a fire science laboratory, so I'm not a complete novice, basically I am using a multi-fuel stove that is better with soft coal/ wood and I want to know what I can do to improve it's performance with anthracite. Any ideas guys?
- michaelanthony
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Ok let's start with some pictures of the grates, doors, and all air controls. Anthracite coal needs a deep bed, (at least 8 inches), and all primary air under it.
- Lightning
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As Mike mentioned, pictures above and below the grates, sides of the fire box, the more the better.
As for improvement, what exactly are you looking for? You said it over fired on stove size, are you having trouble controlling the burn? If you describe a little more in depth of how the stove is behaving, that would be a big help also.
As for improvement, what exactly are you looking for? You said it over fired on stove size, are you having trouble controlling the burn? If you describe a little more in depth of how the stove is behaving, that would be a big help also.
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Uploading via phone, will clarify in detail via computer...
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Last edited by rsballer10 on Mon. Nov. 13, 2017 8:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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With the nut, I was struggling to get it hot enough, with the air flapper all the way open and the MPD wide open, and the door draft knobs shut.
With stove coal, I struggled to get it going. once it did, I had trouble keeping it burning steady. The mix of both worked best, but I'm still not getting great burn times. After 7-8 hours the mix of both was hanging on for dear life, and it was mostly ash.
On a seperate note, the flue pipe needs to be replaced, because by code there needs to be triple wall that close to my beam.
With stove coal, I struggled to get it going. once it did, I had trouble keeping it burning steady. The mix of both worked best, but I'm still not getting great burn times. After 7-8 hours the mix of both was hanging on for dear life, and it was mostly ash.
On a seperate note, the flue pipe needs to be replaced, because by code there needs to be triple wall that close to my beam.
- Lightning
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Don't be afraid to fill it clear to top of the fire brick. A nut/stove size mix will really enjoy being 8-10 inches in depth. If it can't be that deep in the front because of the doors, then slope it towards the back of the fire box to the top of the bricks. It appears that stove could take 60+ pounds to fill it. How much have you been putting in it?rsballer10 wrote: ↑Mon. Nov. 13, 2017 8:14 pmAfter 7-8 hours the mix of both was hanging on for dear life, and it was mostly ash.
The bi metallic thermostat should hold the stove temp steady once the coal load is well established burning.
Inspect the fire box while it's empty, for any places that primary air can bypass instead of going up thru the grates. When lighting a new charge of coal, leave the ash door open till it's burning good. Just do not leave it unattended while the ash door is open.
Do you have any thermometers on the stove?
- warminmn
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Besides what has been mentioned I'd find some 3/8" or thicker steel, or something similar, and put it in front by the door so you can pile coal higher in the front. I cant tell how deep it is to the grates by the door but a 4" wide bar would help a lot. I did something similar once in a shallow bed stove and it helped a lot.
Those front doors likely leak so be sure to check them as has been mentioned.
Those front doors likely leak so be sure to check them as has been mentioned.
- michaelanthony
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Here is some reading my friend.
http://fireplaces-rochester-ny.com/manuals/BRUNCO ... 0Stove.pdf
The instructions mention bituminous coal.
http://fireplaces-rochester-ny.com/manuals/BRUNCO ... 0Stove.pdf
The instructions mention bituminous coal.
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No thermometers on the stove. Putting one on the surface of the stove, would that do any good? Air flows out the top of the stove, so it would give cooler readings I would imagine.Lightning wrote: ↑Mon. Nov. 13, 2017 8:47 pmDon't be afraid to fill it clear to top of the fire brick. A nut/stove size mix will really enjoy being 8-10 inches in depth. If it can't be that deep in the front because of the doors, then slope it towards the back of the fire box to the top of the bricks. It appears that stove could take 60+ pounds to fill it. How much have you been putting in it?
The bi metallic thermostat should hold the stove temp steady once the coal load is well established burning.
Inspect the fire box while it's empty, for any places that primary air can bypass instead of going up thru the grates. When lighting a new charge of coal, leave the ash door open till it's burning good. Just do not leave it unattended while the ash door is open.
Do you have any thermometers on the stove?
I know to leave the ash door open, it's the only way to get coal to ignite with this stove.
Fuel wise, sounds like I'm a bit on the low side. 40lbs i would estimate is what I used.
Where could the air bypass? The perimeter of the fire grates?
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I have the manual printed. I was hoping to be able to burn anthracite because that's what's available here in my area. I'll call around and see if anyone sells bit.michaelanthony wrote: ↑Mon. Nov. 13, 2017 9:46 pmHere is some reading my friend.
http://fireplaces-rochester-ny.com/manuals/BRUNCO ... 0Stove.pdf
The instructions mention bituminous coal.
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I see a gap where they need to be re-insulated. The bed is very shallow, I've been loading per the instructions that came with it, to bank the coal towards the rear.warminmn wrote: ↑Mon. Nov. 13, 2017 9:02 pmBesides what has been mentioned I'd find some 3/8" or thicker steel, or something similar, and put it in front by the door so you can pile coal higher in the front. I cant tell how deep it is to the grates by the door but a 4" wide bar would help a lot. I did something similar once in a shallow bed stove and it helped a lot.
Those front doors likely leak so be sure to check them as has been mentioned.
- joeq
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Maybe it's me, but the floor of that stove looks to be firebricks, with very little area for ventilation. I can't see an anthracite fire lasting very long, before the gaps begin to fill with ash, and become very restricted. How does the shaker system work? Looks more suited to wood to me.
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j that stove needs cleaned bad and i had one for ten yrs , burned bit well and wood but the good stuff ( ant,) i think the fire box to the front , loading doors is to shallow un less he banx it to the back and or puts something up front by the doors to even out the bed and on that stove i did have problems with the bi metal t stat working good but was a well built stove for its time but it had a few concerning flaws !!!!!!!!!!hope itall works out for the OP ..
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The number is irrelevant, the changes in it are a lesson in operation.rsballer10 wrote: ↑Tue. Nov. 14, 2017 9:04 amNo thermometers on the stove. Putting one on the surface of the stove, would that do any good? Air flows out the top of the stove, so it would give cooler readings I would imagine.