Coalpail.com Forum

I’m going to pick one up tomorrow and am trying to figure out how to lay this on a trailer. I think I want to lay it on the backside but am not sure what’s back there. I can’t find a pic of it anywhere. Any help is appreciated.

NOPE, NOPE, NOPE!!!!! Do not lay it on its end. The flue breech
will make it unstable and if the Domestic Hot Water coil tappings
are there-plumbed in they could be damaged.

There's nothing back there, but the flu breech does stick out a few inches. Might have a boiler drain on the bottom right. The DHW coil mounts in the front on an sf260...

Thanks. I picked it up today. I couldn’t get it last week due to the snowstorm. It’s a 360. 925 lbs. Pulled the skins off. Ended up laying it on the side opposite of the shaker handle. Used a cable jack to pull it on the trailer. It went much smoother than I thought it would. Hope it’s not a leaker. The guy said it didn’t but you never know. Just have to get it off the trailer now. I can’t believe they don’t put lift eyes on these things. I may weld some on. There is really no good lifting points on this. How in the world do they move these around at the factory. Must use lift magnets.

Screw in a short nipple, a tee and maybe a few 90's in the top. Instant lift point...

Hmm dunno if I trust pipe threads to lift that much weight with.

It is pretty heavy...

When I removed my sf260 I used a floor jack and chain hoist to lift it up onto a 1,000 lb furniture dolly. It's still back in the corner by the oil tanks sitting on the same dolly... Took that picture today

Oh did you use a nipple as a lift point?

Yes the one coming out of the back was used as a lift point for the chain hoist. I just put a floor jack up under the front...

SF-260 to KAA-4

Oh I see now. The pipe threads aren’t really carrying the full weight of the boiler with the help of the jack. Nice stoker. Now I have to find one of those.

Just my luck. She’s a leaker. I got all the creosote cleaned off and those tubes in the firebox are split. Going by the boilermakers soon to see how much to repair. Fortunately I got it dirt cheap so another small investment isn’t out of my budget. Depends on how much they want to do it. If all else fails I may resort to plan B and convert it to a forced air unit. It’s a shame as the stove is in very good condition otherwise. Grates are perfectly straight. There’s no warping inside anywhere. Even the tubes are straight. Odd that they are split.

Do you plan to install this, or will you sell it once it's fixed?

I was going to use it but I’m not going to wrap a bunch of money up into it so it’s entirely based on the number the boilermaker throws at me. I’ve been welding for 30 years and can probably do the repair myself I’m just not certified to weld on boilers and it may not even matter for my personal use. Then there is plan B which I think is a completely viable option to convert it to a forced air. Just plug up those tubes and cut a blower hole at the bottom of the jacket and a plenum hole at the top of it. I could probably even turn the tubes into overfire secondary air tubes. Sure it’s redneck but if the shoe fits...

Well a little research has led me to leave the welding up to the boilermakers. I’ll be dropping it by there in the next few days for estimate.