Central Boiler FORGE 3500 Outdoor Coal Boiler

 
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McGiever
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Location: Junction of PA-OH-WV
Stoker Coal Boiler: AXEMAN-ANDERSON 130 "1959"
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: BUCKET A DAY water heater
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 414A
Coal Size/Type: PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE
Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump and some Solar

Post by McGiever » Sat. Dec. 08, 2018 9:31 pm

https://www.hpacmag.com/features/purging-hydronic-circuits/

figure 2 is representative of the 2 separate PEX ftgs., the ball valve and the boiler drain suggested earlier and posted again below.
figure 3 shows setup.
McGiever wrote:
Sat. Dec. 08, 2018 8:20 pm
I'll suggest some PEX fittings (tees, splice couplings and compression rings), a PEX crimper tool, PEX boiler drains and PEX quarter turn ball valves...for starters...
This guy did 2 zones w/ explanation and all in ~5,5min.


 
Torpex
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Location: Sullivan County
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Simplex Multi Therm
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: D.S Stove
Coal Size/Type: Chestnut
Other Heating: Wood, Oil, Propane

Post by Torpex » Thu. Dec. 13, 2018 3:28 pm

If the baseboard has risers into the attic over a door/wall I would think the bleeders would be up there, in the attic at the high points, no :?:

If there isn't any wouldn't installing them up there help? That wouldn't cost too much.

 
Torpex
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Location: Sullivan County
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Simplex Multi Therm
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: D.S Stove
Coal Size/Type: Chestnut
Other Heating: Wood, Oil, Propane

Post by Torpex » Sat. Dec. 15, 2018 10:19 am

Unless I missed it, what is the difference in height of the top of those risers in relation to the top of the boiler? If it’s not a pressurized system could that contribute to a flow problem?

 
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lsayre
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Location: Ohio
Stoker Coal Boiler: AHS S130 Coal Gun
Coal Size/Type: Lehigh Anthracite Pea
Other Heating: Resistance Boiler (13.5 KW), ComfortMax 75

Post by lsayre » Sat. Dec. 15, 2018 10:41 am

Lee, any updates?

 
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Lightning
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Location: Olean, NY
Stoker Coal Boiler: Modified AA 130
Coal Size/Type: Pea Size - Anthracite

Post by Lightning » Sat. Dec. 15, 2018 5:19 pm

lsayre wrote:
Sat. Dec. 15, 2018 10:41 am
Lee, any updates?
Not at the moment. He's just been trying to maintain a fire. It's gone out a couple times because it will crawl up to 200 degrees while it's idling, then it closes the 10% idle air. I had him turn it down to 5%, it seems to be behaving a little better. Here's a graph of the last 24 hours. He wants to add more radiators, not sure how soon and do more with the plumbing.

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Torpex
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Location: Sullivan County
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Simplex Multi Therm
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: D.S Stove
Coal Size/Type: Chestnut
Other Heating: Wood, Oil, Propane

Post by Torpex » Wed. Dec. 19, 2018 8:51 am

I would absolutely check the in floor radiant system. The one in my garage uses 1/2 copper and it works great, and its over 30 years old. If there are no visible cracks in the slab, I dont know why it wouldn't work, (except for a possible clog), because If it could be reactivated that would solve a big portion of the heat problem in the house. I bet it would take about a week to get that slab warmed up if he can hook it up on a separate zone. My 24' x 32' 8" slab is independent of the foundation & walls, could call it "floating" and I have full access to every loop & bleeders on one side of the garage
I dont want to sound contrary to anyone here, but I would really check those risers. I doubt that even a 50psi garden hose could flush all the air out of multiple 8ft risers. Bleeders/auto bleeders are a must in my opinion. :)

 
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lsayre
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Stoker Coal Boiler: AHS S130 Coal Gun
Coal Size/Type: Lehigh Anthracite Pea
Other Heating: Resistance Boiler (13.5 KW), ComfortMax 75

Post by lsayre » Wed. Dec. 19, 2018 9:31 am

He already can't squeeze enough water through his pipes to bring a fraction of his boilers heat into the house. Nothing like adding the demand to push it through a long and twisty straw to the problems he already has.


 
lzaharis
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Location: Ithaca, New York
Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KAA-4-1 dual fuel boiler
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: former switzer CWW100-sold
Coal Size/Type: rice
Other Heating: kerosene for dual fuel Keystoker/unused

Post by lzaharis » Wed. Dec. 19, 2018 11:32 am

I am fixing my mistakes from yesterday:


The firebox on model is 50" by 36" by 30"
It has 210 gallons of water capacity with an open to air water chamber that has a water filling tube.

Based strictly on what I did with my hand fed boiler; If he filled it half full of firebrick it would work better.

Laying a piece of 2" by 18" channel iron on the shaker grate frame would still allow the grates to move with no issues and add a bigger heat sink with a 1/2 pallet of standard firebrick to hold more heat from the coal while its burning will help him a lot.
Last edited by lzaharis on Thu. Dec. 20, 2018 10:37 am, edited 3 times in total.

 
Torpex
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Location: Sullivan County
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Simplex Multi Therm
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: D.S Stove
Coal Size/Type: Chestnut
Other Heating: Wood, Oil, Propane

Post by Torpex » Wed. Dec. 19, 2018 12:10 pm

lsayre wrote:
Wed. Dec. 19, 2018 9:31 am
He already can't squeeze enough water through his pipes to bring a fraction of his boilers heat into the house. Nothing like adding the demand to push it through a long and twisty straw to the problems he already has.
I was only thinking if he could do a separate loop. Besides, whats wrong with twisty straws..this aint California. lol ;) Wasnt sure how large a feed he had from the Boiler to/from the house. The floor in my garage has @ 576ft of 1/2 copper on a single loop with 2 B&G 100 circ pumps. I wonder what they heated the house with before he got the place and if it ever got warm. I know when 1/2 my concrete floor is warm, its almost "too much" heat for working :o

 
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McGiever
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Joined: Sun. May. 02, 2010 11:26 pm
Location: Junction of PA-OH-WV
Stoker Coal Boiler: AXEMAN-ANDERSON 130 "1959"
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: BUCKET A DAY water heater
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 414A
Coal Size/Type: PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE
Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump and some Solar

Post by McGiever » Wed. Dec. 19, 2018 2:38 pm

There is only one mission currently and that is to get a reasonable portion of that 350,000 btu/hr from point A (boiler)
To point B (house)

Everything and anything else is just "FLUFF" at this time and place...

Larry aka lsayre has laid out all the numbers that define what present capabilities are...in a word...Meager...

Yes keeping the fire lit seems very fundamental but this is the Proverbial "Dog chasing his tail"...
There has to be somewhere to remove some of that heat from that huge giant idle fire...solving that would be a giant first step down the right path.
Otherwise it just looks like "Groundhog Day" all over again.
Last edited by McGiever on Wed. Dec. 19, 2018 2:55 pm, edited 1 time in total.

 
Olllotj
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Post by Olllotj » Wed. Dec. 19, 2018 2:52 pm

How about They build a building around the FORGE and live in that building :lol:

 
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McGiever
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Posts: 10130
Joined: Sun. May. 02, 2010 11:26 pm
Location: Junction of PA-OH-WV
Stoker Coal Boiler: AXEMAN-ANDERSON 130 "1959"
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: BUCKET A DAY water heater
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 414A
Coal Size/Type: PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE
Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump and some Solar

Post by McGiever » Wed. Dec. 19, 2018 2:58 pm

There ya go, lots of them Chiner made hoop tents out there to chose from. :annoyed:

 
CapeCoaler
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Post by CapeCoaler » Wed. Dec. 19, 2018 10:57 pm

Split existing baseboard into two or 3 zones with pex in attic...
Add purge valves...
Power purge system...
Done on a warm day...

 
lzaharis
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Location: Ithaca, New York
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Hand Fed Coal Boiler: former switzer CWW100-sold
Coal Size/Type: rice
Other Heating: kerosene for dual fuel Keystoker/unused

Post by lzaharis » Fri. Dec. 21, 2018 12:26 pm

Anymore updates Lightning?


If he laid down piece of 30" wide by 25" long channel iron on the top of the sloped weldments he could stack the firebrick 26"+- inches high and make a huge heat sink. He would need 228 two and one half inch firebrick or 160 three inch firebrick to make a huge heat sinkk to allow the boiler to work more efficiently and make more heat.

 
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lsayre
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Location: Ohio
Stoker Coal Boiler: AHS S130 Coal Gun
Coal Size/Type: Lehigh Anthracite Pea
Other Heating: Resistance Boiler (13.5 KW), ComfortMax 75

Post by lsayre » Fri. Dec. 21, 2018 12:32 pm

All of the heat that is not finding its way to the house must be going somewhere. Does his magical monitoring device track his flue temperature over time?


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