Central Boiler FORGE 3500 Outdoor Coal Boiler

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Lightning
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Post by Lightning » Fri. Dec. 07, 2018 2:30 pm

That is all correct, yes. Except for the widows. They are closed, unless like you mentioned it's warm outside.


 
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McGiever
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Post by McGiever » Fri. Dec. 07, 2018 4:14 pm

Page 1 post 4:

McGiever wrote:
Wed. Nov. 28, 2018 10:31 am
With that much coal burning o n the grate there should be no shortage of heat available...you are correct to assume a flow or lack of flow issue.
Before condemning the pump be sure the system has all the air pockets purged...power purged, by garden hose...not by circulator.

Air pockets anywhere along/in that single loop can choke any size pump down to a dribble of flow.

Anyways, that would be my first step before any disassembly and/or opening the check-book.


Guess my comment on possible air in loop piping choking down available flow capacity was a dud idea. Remember power purge comment?

Would be ashame to of missed a 30 minute fix, if that could of made a small improvement...undersized rads running at fraction of their potential is a double whammy

 
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lsayre
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Post by lsayre » Fri. Dec. 07, 2018 4:50 pm

The quick fix? The two zone valves are marked N/C and N/O (normally closed and normally open). Both loops can be set up to circulate continuously so neither one freezes. When the T-Stat calls for heat in the house N/C opens and N/O closes. When the T-Stat heat call is satisfied N/C closes and N/O opens.

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Last edited by lsayre on Fri. Dec. 07, 2018 4:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.

 
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Lightning
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Post by Lightning » Fri. Dec. 07, 2018 4:53 pm

Yeah thanks for bringing that back up Mac. We should do that. Just disconnect at the boiler and shove a hose into the pex? Would that suffice?

 
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Lightning
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Post by Lightning » Fri. Dec. 07, 2018 5:13 pm

Larry, is that pump thermally protected? Will it shut down if it gets too hot, do you know?

 
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lsayre
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Post by lsayre » Fri. Dec. 07, 2018 5:59 pm

Lightning wrote:
Fri. Dec. 07, 2018 5:13 pm
Larry, is that pump thermally protected? Will it shut down if it gets too hot, do you know?
Now you have me really confused. I've sent 225 degree water through mine often enough to know that an unpressurized system achieving at best 212 degrees (and likely less due to altitude) will have no issues.

 
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Lightning
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Post by Lightning » Fri. Dec. 07, 2018 6:04 pm

Well, I meant the motor. Is it thermally protected? Or will it run non stop no problem? The reason I ask is because the motor feels quite hot to the touch.


 
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lsayre
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Post by lsayre » Fri. Dec. 07, 2018 6:10 pm

Lightning wrote:
Fri. Dec. 07, 2018 6:04 pm
Well, I meant the motor. Is it thermally protected? Or will it run non stop no problem? The reason I ask is because the motor feels quite hot to the touch.
I ran a B&G NRF22 non stop (sans for power outages) for 10 years, and it might have gone another 10. But I have no experience with Grundfos. My suspicion however is that this is a non-issue.

 
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Post by StokerDon » Fri. Dec. 07, 2018 6:12 pm

Lightning wrote:
Fri. Dec. 07, 2018 4:53 pm
We should do that. Just disconnect at the boiler and shove a hose into the pex? Would that suffice?
NO!
I'm glad yer do'in this Lee. You are gaining some knowledge that will be very helpful when installing you Axeman.

Power purge is when you connect house pressure (50+ PSI) to one end of your long PEX run. Usually the boiler drain will work. Then valve off the return pipe just before the boiler. There has to be a hose bib or drain valve right before the valve on the return pipe.

The idea is you shut the return valve off, open the boiler drain letting full house pressure in, then open the valve in the return. This will force house pressure through the entire loop and blow it out the return valve. This has enough force to push any air pockets through the system and out the return valve.

Once all the air is out, shut the return valve, shut the boiler drain and open the return valve. Then adjust the system pressure. Here is a video of one I did.


I realize the system you are dealing with here is not pressurized but there should be a way to power purge it. If it was never power purged, there very well may be air pockets stuck in the system.

-Don

 
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Post by Olllotj » Fri. Dec. 07, 2018 6:14 pm

A really hot pump motor can be a sign of a bad pump.Measure tne amp draw of the pump to make sure it’s circulating, or do the mechanics screwdriver to the ear trick.

 
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Post by StokerDon » Fri. Dec. 07, 2018 7:41 pm

Lightning wrote:
Fri. Dec. 07, 2018 6:04 pm
Well, I meant the motor. Is it thermally protected? Or will it run non stop no problem? The reason I ask is because the motor feels quite hot to the touch.
If this pump is running 24/7 through a hand fired boiler it will always be hot to the touch.

-Don

 
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lsayre
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Post by lsayre » Sat. Dec. 08, 2018 9:56 am

Lightning wrote:
Fri. Dec. 07, 2018 10:31 am
I know lol. It was just a whim. So the boiler over shot last night and flat lined the fire. He had to throw wood in to rekindle it.
Why would hitting a mere 205 degrees kill the fire? That is certainly not a feature I would aspire to.

 
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Post by CapeCoaler » Sat. Dec. 08, 2018 10:48 am

It seals the air intake...
Massive amt of coal...
Atmospheric system...
Boils at 212*...
Or less in the mountains...
LOL...
We can fix it...

 
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Post by Lightning » Sat. Dec. 08, 2018 1:18 pm

Look what it's doing now. One of those rare occasions where the fire is matching the heat load of the house almost perfectly. WHILE IT'S IDLING... Look how flat that water temp is holding at 190.

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Post by lsayre » Sat. Dec. 08, 2018 1:20 pm

Lightning wrote:
Sat. Dec. 08, 2018 1:18 pm
Look what it's doing now. One of those rare occasions where the fire is matching the heat load of the house almost perfectly. WHILE IT'S IDLING... Look how flat that water temp is holding at 190.
What is/was the outside temperature during this heat load matching?


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