First Question )

 
Torpex
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Post by Torpex » Sat. Nov. 10, 2018 5:37 pm

I have this device. When in the pipe used by the coal boiler it read -2 when in the 8x8 it read -2.5
I also adjusted the barometric damper to stay closed more, increasing draft, at least that’s what it says on the damper

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rberq
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Post by rberq » Sat. Nov. 10, 2018 5:40 pm

Torpex wrote:
Sat. Nov. 10, 2018 3:36 pm
I have a pocket manometer. When should I be reading the draft? I would guess I need to shut the blower off and use the natural flow draft?
If you mean shut off the blower that provides combustion air, the answer is no, don't shut it off. My oil burner tech poked a hole in the stove pipe near the boiler outlet, and that's where he measures draft. He measures it while the oil burner is running. I think you need to do the same, with the combustion blower running. You need to know how much draft (suction) the chimney is providing to draw off the products of combustion under normal burning conditions.

 
Torpex
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Post by Torpex » Mon. Nov. 12, 2018 9:38 am

I apologize for not answering everyone's questions, ya'll kinda threw a bigger bunch of questions back then I expected. lol

So to simplify the "current status", the boiler: is burning/working 100% better!! After removing the door and installing a proper gasket it burned as never before. I still cant believe whom ever put that refractory in did so in a place that wasnt even sealing. So all the burn control was lost around that door. I did a smoking stick test and found a few small stack draft leaks and sealed them up.

The draft measures (after converting MM H2O to in wc) .07 while burning. I have an oil burner in the same boiler room and that boiler is connected to the 8x8 flue and it read .09. Although the 8x8 drafts better I am going to leave it on the 12x12 for now since its burning awesome.

I even had to turn the sampson valve down a notch as well. )) Only used the blower for 15 min after loading the boiler, and that may have been unnecessary but I did it to be sure I didnt smother the fire. I forgot to measure exactly how deep, but the fire box is square, 17 x 17 and guessing 12" deep to the bottom of the door. I loaded it to the bottom of the door and it burned for 12 hours making 108-200 deg water consistently.

Thank you for the guidance which pushed me to check & dig deeper into solving my problems.

BTW---this 108k BTU unit was heating 2304sqft of garage (has 10' ceiling) and 1970's house (half the house has a cathedral ceiling) this weekend quite comfortably. ))

Frank

 
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CoalisCoolxWarm
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Post by CoalisCoolxWarm » Mon. Nov. 12, 2018 11:03 am

Sounds like you are making great strides! :yes:

If you decide to go with an anthracite stoker in the future, you'll use a barometric damper to cut that draft down to .025 (that's the setting for my Keystoker KA6).

Imagine the difference in heat retention ;)

Of course that does pretty much REQUIRE a permanently mounted manometer. Many of us use a Dwyer Mark II

Here is a pic of mine before I tweaked the baro to dial in the draft.
IMAG3062.jpg
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Torpex
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Post by Torpex » Mon. Nov. 12, 2018 3:31 pm

Here’s the boiler in its previous home. I need more lighting in its new home :lol:

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Torpex
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Post by Torpex » Sat. Dec. 01, 2018 10:49 am

The lighting in the room is better than the photos reveal.
I am suspecting the ash door needs to be removed and a gasket installed like the loading door. At some point I plan to move that circulator to the return line to keep it cooler. This circulator, zone valve and fan are controlled by the Aquastat so at 200 they operate to dump heat in the garage.
Basically it’s working 10x better since I installed a gasket on the loading door.
I do plan to install a draft meter to help tune it in. 👍

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71125431-B501-4365-ACBF-AF79A76CA1EC.jpeg

This is the dump zone coil


 
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Post by franco b » Sat. Dec. 01, 2018 4:11 pm

Your gauge appears to be calibrated in millimeters of water, instead of hundredths of an inch of water. Would be good to know the conversion factor. 2 MM is many times more than .02 inches.

One millimeter is one inch divided by 25.4 instead of 100 as calibrated in the usual manometer we use..

 
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CoalisCoolxWarm
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Post by CoalisCoolxWarm » Sat. Dec. 01, 2018 4:49 pm


 
Torpex
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Post by Torpex » Mon. Dec. 03, 2018 6:58 am

Yes, Thank You, I did find a MM - Inch converter earlier, and according to the readings its sucking on the boiler pretty good. :) Which, when considering my current work list, I don't need anymore line items added for now. lol

 
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Post by McGiever » Mon. Dec. 03, 2018 9:30 am

Some would not use a barometer damper with using a Sampson Control Valve...they do the same job in the end.

Same as when using a bi-metallic control on a stove.


 
Torpex
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Post by Torpex » Wed. Dec. 05, 2018 8:06 am

Its my observation that on windy days up on the mountain those gusts cause the barometric damper to open to relieve the stronger draft, allowing a more consistent/even draft on the fire.

The sampson valve, (just my observation) is slower and reacts to water temp more gradually (in comparison)

 
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McGiever
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Post by McGiever » Wed. Dec. 05, 2018 9:10 am

Torpex wrote:
Wed. Dec. 05, 2018 8:06 am
Its my observation that on windy days up on the mountain those gusts cause the barometric damper to open to relieve the stronger draft, allowing a more consistent/even draft on the fire.

The sampson valve, (just my observation) is slower and reacts to water temp more gradually (in comparison)
You have a good grasp for your particular situation, not my intent to change your thinking...

 
Torpex
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Post by Torpex » Thu. Dec. 13, 2018 3:42 pm

My grasp has only improved because I am willing to admit I know nothing at times. LOL
My response was intended to "make sure" I wasnt lost in the wilderness again ))

 
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McGiever
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Post by McGiever » Thu. Dec. 13, 2018 9:17 pm

Test both ways and see what results for your situation. Aluminum foil over a baro works good to temporarily defeat it's action.

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