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Yea ill cut the wall bigger. Point taken heh..

Ordered an 8" insulated wall thimble ill keep you guys posted how it goes

Sylvesterd101 wrote: ↑

Thu. Feb. 14, 2019 2:12 am

Ordered an 8" insulated wall thimble ill keep you guys posted how it goes

Glad to hear it. As you know, we aren't here to criticize or make the mountain steeper. We want you to have the best performing and reliable, and safest system you can.

There are many here who are pros or 'dang near it' and are always willing to toss in their knowledge and experience.

A few years back with our hand fired I had an insurance inspection. When cleaning up and restoring my old stove, I wiped out the tag on the old Sears, so it fell under the default regs. I argued quite well, but they didn't care. They didn't say I had to remove it, they just said they wouldn't insure us unless I 'remedied' the situation.

Not enough height for the clearances (plenum), so slammed the Keystoker boiler into place that I'd been dragging my feet on for a while. Glad I did

I knew the code and thought I was okay. It was a lot of work.

Fortunately, it was a temporary installation until the boiler and remodel was done. It might not be the case for others.

So I try to share this hard-earned knowledge when I can- as I believe many of us do

Sometimes we have to build out in stages...but it's always good to know the correct path as we can

Amen brother

Okay so this is my dilemma my pipe is 7 in the thimble I bought is a 8 but the hole looks a lot bigger can I get away with cutting the wall more and cutting the top of the Thimble so it doesn't hit the ceiling or reverse it or something I'm going to have to cut something I'm not quite sure yet yours included pictures

The walls in this house are plaster and lath so thats going to be a challenge for me as well. I guess ill cut the top of the thimble, and look at adapters at lowes

Oh boy fellas my first shut down and clean out I pulled flue pipe out of the back of the boiler and while I was cleaning I noticed what seems to be a crack right after the boiler flue tube

Must not be a wet wall, no leakage visible.

Still best to have repaired as it can still grow bigger with metal stress even from temperature changes over time.

oh jeeze, ill have to find someone that can do it, hopefully that wont charge me a kidney

Drill the point of the crack and fill the rest...
How hard was it to get inside with the grinder...
Good thing it is spring as it is not a rush job now...
Ask around should be some one good at the plant...
Just need someone who is mobile...
Have a few who do work around here all are word of mouth...
Because they are that good...
Most of them are certified to work on air frames...
One worked for NASA...

yea, the guy that hired me, left and went to lehigh industrial maint in palmerton pa, he said he will have it done for nothing which is a huge load off, but he thinks that piece can be removed. but from what i can tell with this harman sf260. the whole thing is one solid piece. ill keep you guys posted

Well unfortunately I've called around to every place in my area I'll try to talk to every person I work with I even had a guy that was supposed to come and help me and just disappeared off the face of the Earth so it looks like after syncing almost my entire life savings into this system in my house no one could repair the small crack in my boiler and it looks like I'm going to have to run it until I can't run it anymore and save money for a brand new unit

As CapeCoaler said, drill a small hole at the end of the crack.

It cracked, so the stress is relieved. It will probably work that way for as long as you want.

It will work just fine...
get the hole drilled so it does not spread any further...
When they show back up in your universe...
things will get done...