pricing installation
- Sylvesterd101
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Okay fellas as soon as i get a chance ill let ya know whats going on.
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=================================================================================================Sylvesterd101 wrote: ↑Sat. Nov. 10, 2018 7:29 amI called Keller today and he's coming out to look at it he said he installed everything as per the operation manual stated I told him all of your concerns and he said I must have over fired it he said I'm welcome to getting inspector. It works fine for me so far I'm just trying to be proactive
If you go to the Xylem brands site you can print out the diagrams showing steel compression tanks and air scoops to prove to him it was not installed correctly.
Whoever he had come do the work did not hook up the air scoop correctly as a steel compression tank DOES NOT work with an automatic air bleeder and should not use an automatic air bleeder as it removes all the air cushion in the steel compression tank.
You need the boiler drain with the brass tube in it to drain excess water out of the steel compression tank as you you do not have a gauge glass to observe the water level in the steel compression tank.
If the air to water ratio 1/3 air; 2/3's water was correct the system pressure would be much much lower than what you are now operating with.
The water fill valve CANNOT BE LEFT OPEN AT ANY TIME after the system is filled and the excess water is drained from the steel compression tank to correctly create the 1/3 air, 2/3 water ratio.
The last thing you need is to have the steel compression tank rupture as the heating system will drain out and the boiler may boil dry if you are not at home.
We only want to help you Slyvester, not impede your progress in burning the magic black rocks.
- Sylvesterd101
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He came said everything is as it should be. For. The way my house is, he said everyone on here doesnt know what they are talking about and got adgitated... sigh. I opened the drain valve on the steel tank and water is coming out i just. Dont know what to do. He refuses its setup incorrectly
- Sylvesterd101
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Anyone know a guy in carbon county that can look and inspect it?
- coaledsweat
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That looks like your domestic water pressure to me. It should be down around 12-15#. I would check to make sure the PRV is installed and set properly. Can we get a good pic of that supply valve?
- Sylvesterd101
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- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Harman SF260
- Coal Size/Type: nut, anthracite
No idea which is the supply valve. He set a full bed of coals aflame before he left so we had heat, i get anal when it gets to 160+ and crank the thermostat to dump the hot water early into my radiators so it doesnt overfire. He said he set it at 220 to do it automatically but i dont trust it
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If a licensed plumber installed that there should have been an inspection by the town plumbing inspector and a permit issued. You could hold off the final payment until that is done. A plumbing inspector would have authority and would be the final word.
My impression of the job is that it is sloppy; never saw an expansion tank connected to an air scoop except the bladder type.. Whether it will steal the air from the tank, I doubt. Both the backflow preventer and pressure relief valve should have overflow pipes connected to direct any water to the floor instead of the boiler covering. That pressure gauge is a joke. Using iron fittings on the otherwise copper tankless coil is nuts.
Lower that overfire temperature to at most 200 degrees.
I see no automatic intake air control. If the boiler is not designed for one then it behoves you to get well acquainted to how to control a low fire and that intake air doors and fittings are capable of that.
Get proper instruction on how to monitor and drain the expansion tank.
My impression of the job is that it is sloppy; never saw an expansion tank connected to an air scoop except the bladder type.. Whether it will steal the air from the tank, I doubt. Both the backflow preventer and pressure relief valve should have overflow pipes connected to direct any water to the floor instead of the boiler covering. That pressure gauge is a joke. Using iron fittings on the otherwise copper tankless coil is nuts.
Lower that overfire temperature to at most 200 degrees.
I see no automatic intake air control. If the boiler is not designed for one then it behoves you to get well acquainted to how to control a low fire and that intake air doors and fittings are capable of that.
Get proper instruction on how to monitor and drain the expansion tank.
- CoalisCoolxWarm
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Your picture of the brass valve with the blue tag is the Pressure Reducing Valve (PRV), sometimes called Autofill valve.
If your Temperature Pressure safety Valve (TPV, the one with the floppy tin lever on top) gets too hot or too much pressure and pops off, it releases hot water. Some of that water is replaced with cool, fresh water from your potable house water supply.
The house water supply is usually 35-50psi and the boiler operates well below that, so the pressure must be reduced before going into your boiler system. It is a one way valve. Once water goes in, it never comes back out (unless TPV pops)
You will note the PRV is set at 15psi, according to the tag. Theoretically, your cold system pressure could then never be higher than 15psi.
Warmer/hot water will raise the pressure, which should be handled by the pressure tank.
Does that help? All these parts and acronyms take a little time to get used to
If your Temperature Pressure safety Valve (TPV, the one with the floppy tin lever on top) gets too hot or too much pressure and pops off, it releases hot water. Some of that water is replaced with cool, fresh water from your potable house water supply.
The house water supply is usually 35-50psi and the boiler operates well below that, so the pressure must be reduced before going into your boiler system. It is a one way valve. Once water goes in, it never comes back out (unless TPV pops)
You will note the PRV is set at 15psi, according to the tag. Theoretically, your cold system pressure could then never be higher than 15psi.
Warmer/hot water will raise the pressure, which should be handled by the pressure tank.
Does that help? All these parts and acronyms take a little time to get used to
- Sylvesterd101
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Im gonna try to have someone from the borough come inspect it this week
- coaledsweat
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On that WATTS valve, which way does the arrow point? It appears your pressure is twice its limit.
- Sylvesterd101
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Im at work id have to check when i get home
- Sylvesterd101
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- Location: Lehighton PA
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Harman SF260
- Coal Size/Type: nut, anthracite
I know it goes out and down to the floor so id think it would be pointing away from the boiler
- coaledsweat
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Not the relief valve, the incoming supply pressure reducing valve. WATTS with the blue tag. It should only allow a max of 25# and you are at 50#. If installed backwards, that's a problem.
- franpipeman
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http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31xWBjCDLgL.jpg
piped from top of air scoop to bottom of expansion tank with no traps but constant up as per Izaharis
piped from top of air scoop to bottom of expansion tank with no traps but constant up as per Izaharis
- hotblast1357
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Where are you seeing he is at 50psi??coaledsweat wrote: ↑Sun. Nov. 11, 2018 7:39 amNot the relief valve, the incoming supply pressure reducing valve. WATTS with the blue tag. It should only allow a max of 25# and you are at 50#. If installed backwards, that's a problem.
Are you reading the gauge wrong too??