pricing installation

Looks like 22 psi or so... seems a little high for a brand new install. Most residential systems use 12 to 15 psi.

Your circulator will probably last past your plumbers warranty period but I’d bet it doesn’t last 2 years.

Sylvesterd101 wrote: ↑

Fri. Nov. 09, 2018 6:42 pm

a little drunk. what should i do?

Lay off the alcohol! Lol

Your reading the gauge wrong...

Tell him if he does not come back tomorrow at no cost to you you will call the plumbing inspector and he or she will have no choice but to tag the boiler as dangerous until its fixed and you would hate to see his plumbing license revoked.

1. you need black flue pipe(the galvanized flue pipe wont last

2. you need the correct Field Controls RC barometric damper.

3. you need to have the circulator moved to protect the motor and the cartridge.

4. you need to have the air scoop correctly plumbed with the steel compression tank; the system cannot work correctly the way it is and you have no air blanket holding down the water in the horizontal steel compression tank.

The automatic air valve has already removed all the air from your steel compression tank by now and the water filler valve should be shut off to prevent it from occurring again after the plumbing has been corrected.

You have too much pressure in your boiler and or the gauge or gauges are not working correctly they may be damaged and you may also need a new relief valve.

Looking at your pressure gauge, it looks like about 22 psi (read the inner scale).

Most home boilers (all ones I know) are set to 30 psi relief and operate below 20 psi and often closer to 15psi or slightly below.

It is possible your steel expansion tank is water logged. If so, as the water heats up and expands, there isn't an air space in that tank to allow the expansion, so the pressure increases.

It isn't uncommon for the tank to get water logged during initial startup. Just drain some water and allow some air back into it. Ask your plumber, it should have a stemmed valve on the bottom- he should be able tell you how to add air to it.

You may be able to tell by tapping the side of the tank where the water level is. I have a similar setup.

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An air scoop has a little ramp inside that narrows the water passage. As water passes over the ramp, the pressure is temporarily reduced and allows dissolve and other air to come out of the water and rise to the area at the top of the air scoop. The little round cylinder on top of it is an automatic air bleeder, which allow the air to exit the system.

Air scoops are usually installed at the highest point of the system, where air naturally accumulates.

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Is the stovepipe stainless or galvanized? I got about 3 years out of the galvanized components in my Keystoker KA6, but I didn't remove it in the Spring like I should have.

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Lots of us have had or seen unconventional installation, including some that were REALLY wrong. Curiously, they usually still work! These style systems are hard to kill, though efficiency can definitely suffer in certain installations- mostly due to distribution/plumbing setups.

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Let us know how it works! (after the beers!) LOL.

inside numbers are PSI, outside are feet of head...
22 is the psi...
You are about 10 to 8 psi over what you should be...
The PRV should pop at 30 psi...
If the proper one is in place and working...
The non bladder tank is not set up properly...
So may not function as it should due to waterlogged tank...
The plumber seems to think it is fine so...
Doubtful that much will get changed...
Have you paid the bill in full or did you have a hold back...
What state and county do you live in...

Im in lehighton pa, getting ready to go to work. Ill call him again, and i paid half up front, half after didnt pay the after yet of 2 grand

If someone could give me info on someone to call to inspect this that would be great

Hold that cash until you are satisfied with the install...
Just because your plumber says it is done right...
Does not make it so...
The list developing here is a start with what is wrong...
Was a written contract signed...
Hold off on calling the plumber until you have a plan...
On what needs to be done...
And how you can persuade him to 'fix' what is wrong...
A second opinion from a different plumbing outfit is a possibility...

I called Keller today and he's coming out to look at it he said he installed everything as per the operation manual stated I told him all of your concerns and he said I must have over fired it he said I'm welcome to getting inspector. It works fine for me so far I'm just trying to be proactive

Yea second outfit wanted 7k to install it sigh. Im broke because of this and apparently its not even right.

The good news is that it would not take much to correct.

As for "installed per the manual", the mistakes we pointed out are likely not detailed in the Harman installation manual. Some of it is assumed to be general piping practice, others are in the manuals for the accessories. The flue pipe should be a short discussion, it should be black stove pipe intended for solid fuels, period.

For the Taco circulator, you can refer to step 1 in their installation manual: https://s3.amazonaws.com/s3.supplyhouse.com/manua ... D_FILE.pdf

For the airscoop, they should have used a model with a 1/2" tapping on top - those are the ones that are intended for use with a ceiling mounted steel expansion tank. A Bell & Gossett 1-1/2" Inline Air Separator would be my choice - installed as per the attached diagram.

He said it would add to my cost for the black flue pipe

Sylvesterd101 wrote: ↑

Sat. Nov. 10, 2018 7:50 am

He said it would add to my cost for the black flue pipe

It won't add any cost, you are still holding 2k...

Sylvesterd101 wrote: ↑

Sat. Nov. 10, 2018 7:50 am

He said it would add to my cost for the black flue pipe

FYI. I just bought heavy black stovepipe from Lowes this week.

Tee - $33
End Cap - $13
24" Straight - $13/ea

Whatever you decide, hang in there