pricing installation

 
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wilder11354
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Post by wilder11354 » Wed. Nov. 14, 2018 12:44 am

CapeCoaler wrote:
Tue. Nov. 13, 2018 8:33 pm
See pages 6 and 7 of the pdf for proper setup including the dump zone...

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&s ... 3EW7zbEqHw
He doesn't have the Johnson Control's modular set up. THATS what he needs! Posted this a long time ago. But whad da hay do i know owning one! Then all his plumbing issues can be fixed once he can control boiler burn.


 
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Sylvesterd101
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Post by Sylvesterd101 » Wed. Nov. 14, 2018 4:12 am

Can i buy that control online? Anyone have any links? If not whats the model number ill go down to my local hvac parts store

 
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Post by lzaharis » Wed. Nov. 14, 2018 11:46 am

Hello Sylvester,

You can purchase the Johnson A350 controller for your Harman boiler directly from W.W. GRAINGER Supply Company

The item number is #36P576

$165.50 plus tax and shipping

PLEASE Just make sure the thermocouple cable comes with it when you order it.
The item number for the thermocouple is 36P561

$54.00 plus tax and shipping

The A350 controller should come complete with the thermocouple cable and immersion well but BE SURE TO ASK IF IT DOES have these items.

I am not sure if the immersion well for the hydrostat 3250 plus that your plumber installed would be the correct one for the thermocouple of the johnson A350 controls as the thermocouple bulb and immersion well for the 3250 plus is short.

Its better to order the correct immersion well to go along with the A350 controller as there are 4 different ones that offer for their controls.
Last edited by lzaharis on Wed. Nov. 14, 2018 12:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.

 
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Post by CapeCoaler » Wed. Nov. 14, 2018 11:59 am

But this controller should have a dump zone also...
Lookup the model and get the PDF instructions...
No need to spend money now...
Get the existing one dialed in...
Get the burning process dialed in...
Then if you feel the existing controls are lacking...
You may want to change them out...
While this install is not perfect, yet...
It will make heat and be reasonably safe...
Just be aware of some of its shortfalls...

 
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wilder11354
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Post by wilder11354 » Wed. Nov. 14, 2018 12:13 pm

-Johnson Controls aquastat - (3) pieces; a350 Controller w/ Sensor wire
S350 Stage Module
Y350 Power Supply
these are the 3 modules needed, also need DIN mounting rail. Manual posted earlier https://downloads.hearthnhome.com/installManuals/ ... _SF360.pdf shows how ts set up.

 
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Post by lzaharis » Wed. Nov. 14, 2018 12:23 pm

Hydrolevel stated in their old literature (2015 model year) that these units were "only" to be used with cold start boilers.

The plastic cases on these things being exposed to so much heat and the heat being transferred to the circuit boards/computers from the heat of the exposed loading door and the ash pit door on this Harman and the keystokers with the fire viewing door and ash pit door with the triple aquastats being placed directly above them is the problem in my opinion having lived through this with two of them that failed.

The remote mounting kits for these things are $75.00 plus and I guess you splice telephone wire wire to the thermocouple wire to move it to a remote location along with the BX cable that powers it and the BX through cable to the circulator.



I have lived with spending good money after bad to correct a bad installation and controls.
Last edited by lzaharis on Wed. Nov. 14, 2018 3:35 pm, edited 1 time in total.

 
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Post by Rob R. » Wed. Nov. 14, 2018 12:25 pm

lzaharis wrote:
Wed. Nov. 14, 2018 12:23 pm
Hydrolevel stated in their old literature (2015 model year) that these units were "only" to be used with cold start boilers.
Then why do they include a low limit feature? By maintaining a low limit settings, the boiler is not a cold start boiler.


 
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Post by McGiever » Wed. Nov. 14, 2018 2:34 pm

Johnson Control A350 on a Harman S260 and others:

Post by coalkirk - Run Away Boiler

 
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Post by lzaharis » Wed. Nov. 14, 2018 3:18 pm

Rob R. wrote:
Wed. Nov. 14, 2018 12:25 pm
Then why do they include a low limit feature? By maintaining a low limit settings, the boiler is not a cold start boiler.
_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
I do not know why they made that statement.


It would probably be much better for Sylvester to obtain a honeywell mechanical triple aquastat and immersion well from locally or W.W. Grainger overnight fix his controls and install a piece of sheet metal under it to act as a heat shield to protect the mechanical triple aquastat.

he would need to have a piece of sheet metal bent and cut to allow it to be screwed to the boiler skin on the right ride and then it would deflect any heat or flames away from the triple aquastat as it is above the loading door.

 
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Post by Sylvesterd101 » Wed. Nov. 14, 2018 3:44 pm

Well i got my brick and clay to build a firebox reducer but this is my second day of controlled 10 hour burns with no issues after changing my aquastat dump to 200 not 220. Grant it i need to save money on coal, but my house is half a double built in 1882 with no attic installation. Not sure if reducing 2 grates will hurt me in the long run

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Post by lzaharis » Wed. Nov. 14, 2018 4:00 pm

Hello Sylvester,

The boiler may need a bit more tending but your burn will be better and you will get a finer ash.

When I reduced the size of my firebox to 12 by 12 by 36 high I simply laid a piece of 2 inch by 12 inch by 12 inch channel iron on the shaker grate frame and then I stacked the firebrick on the piece of channel iron.
Using the 2" by 12" by 12" channel iron still allowed the grates to work properly. I did not mud my brick in I just stacked it up to the flue breech. The draft improved and I was able to get a better burn with finer wood and coal ashes.

If you can pop the rear grates out with no issues you will accomplish the same thing.

 
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Post by Sylvesterd101 » Wed. Nov. 14, 2018 4:03 pm

Ok ya i have to wait till she dies b4 i can do that. I was told i need to pop the back grates out and reverse them? Do i need to move the whole shaking assembly?

 
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Post by lzaharis » Wed. Nov. 14, 2018 4:57 pm

The individual grates should lift right out with the grates level. please be careful just do not get burned.

I have to leave but I will check back later

 
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Post by Sylvesterd101 » Wed. Nov. 14, 2018 6:36 pm

No worries guys planning on doing it sat, off sat-tue. My 4 day weekend b4 going back on night shift

 
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Post by StokerDon » Thu. Nov. 15, 2018 4:15 pm

lzaharis wrote:
Wed. Nov. 14, 2018 4:57 pm
The individual grates should lift right out with the grates level.
You won't get the grate out if you try to pull it up level. The right side has to come up first to pull the grate out of the shaker.

-Don


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