pricing installation

 
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Sylvesterd101
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Post by Sylvesterd101 » Mon. Nov. 12, 2018 1:59 pm

Its supposed to dump into all my radiators, she said the box is flashing 250 and she thinks it needs to be reset or something, she said she checked the coal and its out so god knows what im in for


 
CapeCoaler
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Post by CapeCoaler » Mon. Nov. 12, 2018 2:12 pm

Did the PRV valve dump water onto the floor...
Instructions on boiler...
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&s ... 3EW7zbEqHw
page 10 is draft control...
sounds like it was set too hot...
and burned thru the load...

 
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Sylvesterd101
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Post by Sylvesterd101 » Mon. Nov. 12, 2018 2:14 pm

No she said no water on the floor...

 
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Sylvesterd101
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Post by Sylvesterd101 » Mon. Nov. 12, 2018 2:35 pm

From the looks of it the prv valve didn't let water out everything on the boiler seems okay nothing looks warped I followed the direction for the fuel Smart hydrostat to reset it it's currently showing a temperature of 200 in the circulator valves going

 
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CoalisCoolxWarm
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Post by CoalisCoolxWarm » Mon. Nov. 12, 2018 3:06 pm

There is definitely a learning curve for hand fired, and then testing out the whole system and dialing it in.

Looking forward to your inspector's input. We are only pointing out concerns we "think" we can see or wonder about from the pics and description. Hands-on is definitely the correct way. ;)

 
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Sylvesterd101
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Post by Sylvesterd101 » Mon. Nov. 12, 2018 3:26 pm

He said he sees no problems except proximity of combustibles aka my wall the stove pipe goes through to the chimney. So ill stop worrying about it.. lol i need to start on my firebox reducer

 
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Sylvesterd101
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Post by Sylvesterd101 » Mon. Nov. 12, 2018 3:30 pm

Tomorrow im getting firebrick and refractory clay from my boss and ill lookup how to flip the back two grates


 
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Post by lzaharis » Mon. Nov. 12, 2018 5:01 pm

Sylvester,

You stated that the hydrolevel triple aquastat is flashing and it indicates it has failed as both of mine did.

Please understand I am more worried about you and your families safety. I hate to follow behind the plumbing inspector but you need to have that other plumber fix this since the original one has said bye bye.

Even using three single aquastats is safer for your system with one for high limit, the second for the low limit and the third for the dump zone to override the thermostat and turn on the dump zone even if its the heating loop.

Please do not fire it back up.
Last edited by lzaharis on Mon. Nov. 12, 2018 5:36 pm, edited 2 times in total.

 
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coaledsweat
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Post by coaledsweat » Mon. Nov. 12, 2018 5:01 pm

Sylvesterd101 wrote:
Mon. Nov. 12, 2018 1:15 pm
Just foubd out while it was at work it hit 250 the miss's said i hope to god nothing bad happened, she said she cranked the heat all the way and is taking a hot shower now
I wouldn't worry about a boiler running up to 250°. If it was a steamer, that would be a normal temperature. I've had mine weeeelllll beyond that.

 
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StokerDon
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Post by StokerDon » Mon. Nov. 12, 2018 5:39 pm

Sylvesterd101 wrote:
Mon. Nov. 12, 2018 3:30 pm
ill lookup how to flip the back two grates
It's real easy. Remove the firebrick, pull the grate out right side first to get it out of the shaker, rotate 180*, set it back in. This will keep the grate from shaking when you ash your fire.

-Don

 
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Post by Sylvesterd101 » Mon. Nov. 12, 2018 6:50 pm

lzaharis wrote:
Mon. Nov. 12, 2018 5:01 pm
Sylvester,

You stated that the hydrolevel triple aquastat is flashing and it indicates it has failed as both of mine did.

Please understand I am more worried about you and your families safety. I hate to follow behind the plumbing inspector but you need to have that other plumber fix this since the original one has said bye bye.

Even using three single aquastats is safer for your system with one for high limit, the second for the low limit and the third for the dump zone to override the thermostat and turn on the dump zone even if its the heating loop.

Please do not fire it back up.
I dont have money to hire another plumber... what else can i do?...

 
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Post by lzaharis » Mon. Nov. 12, 2018 7:20 pm

Hello Sylvester, I am sorry I am not closer. For now I would lower the high limit to 160 and the low limit to 140 and leave the dump temperature at 180.

I ran my hand fed like that with zero issues for 33 years.

 
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Post by Rob R. » Mon. Nov. 12, 2018 8:02 pm

If the Hydrolevel control has a flashing display, that means it has detected an overheating condition. The manual has instructions for how to reset it. I believe you have to turn the power off, hold the red button down for 10 seconds, and turn the power back on while still holding the button. Check the manual.

 
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Post by CapeCoaler » Mon. Nov. 12, 2018 8:29 pm

So the inspector saw no issues...
If so it answers why the plumber gets away with that shoddy work...
Code enforcement should be able to do A+ work...
And bring the plumbers up to that level...
by withholding final approvals till it is done 'right'...
Looks like you have a lazy ass inspector...
promoting lazy ass work...
The reason the PRV needs to be piped within 6" of the ground...
When that PRV lets loose if it stays as is...
ANYBODY in its path will get hit with...
180+ degree water during the heating season...
http://www.accuratebuilding.com/services/legal/ch ... graph.html
If that PRV is properly piped it goes to the floor...
Good news here is most of this can be fixed relatively easily...
Bad news is if code enforcement does not see a problem...
Going to be an uphill battle...
Do you know anybody who could be give you a second opinion...
Who is a licensed plumber...
Or is this just small town politics...
No body wants to rock the boat...

 
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Sylvesterd101
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Post by Sylvesterd101 » Tue. Nov. 13, 2018 3:49 am

The prv does point down to the floor from the wall, and i could try contacting that other company, the inspector looked at me crazy because i bought the unit used so idk. Guess im screwed


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