Coal/Wood Stove to Heat Domestic Water

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Bungiex88
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Post by Bungiex88 » Thu. Mar. 02, 2017 9:54 am

The stove I plan on buying has a domestic water coil that can be installed and I'd like to take advantage of it but not sure how. I do have a basic understanding of plumbing and watched a couple videos on YouTube but I can't find any info on why this goes there or why you need this on the system. Does anyone have detailed I structions on setting this system up. I saw people adding holding tanks before the hot water gets back to the water heater and valves but they never say why. I'd like to set up my system like I have seen online and use the thermal syphon method.

 
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McGiever
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Post by McGiever » Thu. Mar. 02, 2017 10:54 am

This has been discussed multiple times in much detail...Try the SEARCH feature and endulge yourself. ;)

 
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coaledsweat
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Post by coaledsweat » Thu. Mar. 02, 2017 11:22 am

I would avoid holding tanks. It will not only add cost and complexity, it will add to the mass you have to heat.

 
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Lightning
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Post by Lightning » Thu. Mar. 02, 2017 3:38 pm

I use a temper tank (holding tank) that is plumbed to the coil in my furnace. Whenever I use hot water, the preheated water from the temper tank flows over to the powered electric tank where it finishes heating if needed. It's taken a big chunk out of my electric bill. It's worked flawlessly for 4 years so far. Here's the thread about it. Feel free to ask questions.

Hot Water Coil Project


 
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Lightning
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Post by Lightning » Thu. Mar. 02, 2017 3:44 pm

Here's a crude schematic of my plumbing

In coal preheat mode
Valve 1 and 3 are open, valve 2 is closed.
Valve 2 stops flow directly to the electric tank and forces it to go thru the temper tank.

During the off season
Valve 1 and 3 are closed, valve 2 is open
Valve 1 and 3 isolate the tank during the summer so no cold water gets to the coil while I'm not burning coal.
Valve 2 allows cold water to flow directly to the electric tank.

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McGiever
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Location: Junction of PA-OH-WV
Stoker Coal Boiler: AXEMAN-ANDERSON 130 "1959"
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: BUCKET A DAY water heater
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 414A
Coal Size/Type: PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE
Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump and some Solar

Post by McGiever » Thu. Mar. 02, 2017 8:49 pm

Most important piece is the temperature pressure relief valve (TPR Valve) ...w/o that you may beat even Elon Musk to the moon. ;)
Second most important is large enough pipe diameter and having only gradual turns/bends. :|

There really is a lot to doing this thermo-syphion right. ;)

 
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Post by xmanjeff » Fri. Mar. 03, 2017 5:16 pm

i set mine up just like lightnings pic/diagram , works awesome , I exchanged my single loop out for a double loop in the stove for hotter water
my tempering tank was an electric hot water tank that I didn't hook electric too
I just plumbed in a tee where the pressure relief valve was removed and put hot water going into tank on one port and screwed the pressure relief valve into the tee part , dumping into laundry tub with pex , like I said ,the system works flawlessly ,getting 130+degreee water 2x per day. when the stove is really humping ,the water gets really hot , then I just do some laundry

 
Bungiex88
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Post by Bungiex88 » Sat. Mar. 04, 2017 12:28 am

Have you tried unplugging your actual electric hot water tank to see how your stove alone will heat your water


 
Bungiex88
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Post by Bungiex88 » Sat. Mar. 04, 2017 12:31 am

O nm I thought your whole system was thermal syphoned.

 
Bungiex88
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Post by Bungiex88 » Sat. Mar. 04, 2017 12:36 am

Wouldn't you save even more money if you thermo syphon ed the whole system. I'm not a plumber I'm just trying to get an idea because I'm buying a wood coal stove for next winter and I want to heat my water with it also.

 
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Lightning
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Post by Lightning » Sat. Mar. 04, 2017 5:17 am

I keep the electric tank on so the water can finish heating. On mild days with a slow burn it needs it. When it's cold out and I'm burning hot, the electric tank doesn't need to do any heating.

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