Ongoing Problem With Fields Type M Baro-Damper Sticking Open

 
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lsayre
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Post by lsayre » Sun. Oct. 18, 2015 9:19 am

I'm about to pull it out and replace it with an RC model. Any comments or suggestions?


 
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Rob R.
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Post by Rob R. » Sun. Oct. 18, 2015 9:27 am

Does it stick in the max open position?

 
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Post by hotblast1357 » Sun. Oct. 18, 2015 9:28 am

ive had my rc model stick open before.. had to do some tweaking with the T and what not, was putting pressure on it.

 
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Post by tsb » Sun. Oct. 18, 2015 9:29 am

Did you run the numbers yet ?

 
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Post by lsayre » Sun. Oct. 18, 2015 10:02 am

It can stick open at anywhere from a bit less than half open to anywhere past that point. I've even seen it stick open at about 1/3 open. I just completely cleaned it (and the entire system) roughly 2 weeks ago. It is not hitting anything internally. The internal side "leafs" (only a type M owner would understand) are not creating a pinch point.

I just placed a drop of 3 in 1 type oil on each axle pivot point, and it seems to be working much better now.

 
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Post by lsayre » Sun. Oct. 18, 2015 10:06 am

tsb wrote:Did you run the numbers yet ?
All I can say (so far at least) is that the two CO meters in my boiler room are still reading zero. But seriously, this matter is not one for humor.

 
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Post by franco b » Sun. Oct. 18, 2015 10:12 am

All you can do is thoroughly clean it and double check level in both directions. When stuck open, does a very light tap instantly close it? If so it is binding at that position.


 
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Post by JeepinPete » Sun. Oct. 18, 2015 10:15 am

I found mine was prone to sticking if the shaft wasn't perfectly level.

 
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Post by lsayre » Sun. Oct. 18, 2015 10:19 am

It sounds like I've got some level checking to do.

 
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Post by lsayre » Sun. Oct. 18, 2015 10:20 am

franco b wrote:All you can do is thoroughly clean it and double check level in both directions. When stuck open, does a very light tap instantly close it? If so it is binding at that position.
It seems like this might be it franco b!

 
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Post by tsb » Sun. Oct. 18, 2015 10:22 am

Summer humidity and fly ash make for problems. Numbers meaning:
How old
Did you clean it this fall
Did the boiler run all summer
Did the weight fall off
Windy days, not windy days

Oil will only be a temporary fix. Fly ash loves oil too.
Get a new one.

 
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Post by Lightning » Sun. Oct. 18, 2015 10:28 am

I found that oiling the pin saddles on the RC seems to make it operate smoother too. Making it level should keep the door from creeping to one side or the other if it's binding.

 
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Post by lsayre » Sun. Oct. 18, 2015 10:58 am

I just did a re-leveling job. Now I need to watch it.

 
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Post by Rob R. » Sun. Oct. 18, 2015 11:21 am

Is the Bari even necessary for your application?

 
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Post by lsayre » Sun. Oct. 18, 2015 11:56 am

Rob R. wrote:Is the Bari even necessary for your application?
The manual states "Do not operate with flue draft exceeding -.08 inches of water column.", and also "The standard type “M” Field Control with a “T” is recommended for satisfactory performance."

Mine is set to open at about 0.05". Perhaps I should increase this to 0.06"?


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