All the old hand fired boilers I have seen whether steam or water had a control to automatically close the air intake when pressure or temperature was too high. You don't have that so the only way to get uniform air is to have a baro damper large enough to control that draft.
I understand that the bi- metal thermostat that was on the stove was controlling over fire air. Perhaps that could be rigged to control under fire air.
Your dump zone also was apparently not big enough too.
Kingwood Boiler
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You want the circuit to close and begin circulating in the dump zone on a set temperature rise, a reverse aquastat.Carl wrote:I have the basement zone set as a dump zone its on an aqua stat that I have to open at 200
Guys
I have the stove fired up for the year and so far so good. I have made a few changes since last season including building a room around the boiler to try to keep the dust down a little. I am wondering if you think I will need an outside air vent in order to keep a draft. I did put five 16"x16" grates in the wall with filters on them but I still wonder if I need the outside air?
My next adventure is to make a backup power supply for the stove in case the power goes out. I have purchased a large UPS for a computer and a marine battery. I plan to power the circulator pump at least long enough to get the fire shut down or a generator hooked up.
I have the stove fired up for the year and so far so good. I have made a few changes since last season including building a room around the boiler to try to keep the dust down a little. I am wondering if you think I will need an outside air vent in order to keep a draft. I did put five 16"x16" grates in the wall with filters on them but I still wonder if I need the outside air?
My next adventure is to make a backup power supply for the stove in case the power goes out. I have purchased a large UPS for a computer and a marine battery. I plan to power the circulator pump at least long enough to get the fire shut down or a generator hooked up.