Wood/Coal Boiler

If you are in need of a more conventional heating solution that requires no power look no further. Unlike an automated stoker boiler these units do not require power to generate heat. They can be set up wiith pumps like a typical boiler or a gravity fed sytem insuring heat during power failures. Models include many New Yorker coal boilers, EFM WCB-24 and others. Some of these units can also burn wood.
Marcuss
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Posts: 17
Joined: Mon. Jan. 28, 2013 11:41 pm
Stove/Furnace Make: Itasca wood/coal boiler
Stove/Furnace Model: WCB 415

Post Sun. Feb. 03, 2013 3:58 pm

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I have zones shut off because the water temp is not hot enough to heat the whole house.
Loaded boiler heavily and the water temp is at 167f, Outside air temp is 25f. Last week when water temp was at 185 there was a obstruction in the flue that resembled a spider web. Every few days I remove the cap at the clean out tee and I noticed it. When I cleaned the obstruction the water temp did not go above 150f.
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McGiever
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Posts: 5997
Joined: Sun. May. 02, 2010 11:26 pm
Stoker Coal Boiler: AXEMAN-ANDERSON 130 "1959"
Coal Size/Type: PEA / ANTHRACITE
Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump
Stove/Furnace Make: Hydro Heat /Mega Tek
Location: Junction of PA-OH-WV

Post Sun. Feb. 03, 2013 4:14 pm

Time out!!!

Two into one chimney...there's a big problem...try plugging stove pipe so to only allow only one.

And maybe not a biggie...why is the pressure so high?
Last edited by McGiever on Sun. Feb. 03, 2013 4:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.
SLOW AND STEADY WINS THE RACE

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Rob R.
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Posts: 11343
Joined: Fri. Dec. 28, 2007 4:26 pm
Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM DF520
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 50-93
Coal Size/Type: Lehigh Rice
Other Heating: Dad's 1953 EFM Highboy
Location: Chazy, NY

Post Sun. Feb. 03, 2013 4:15 pm

The boiler gauge says 180? I can't make out how it is tied into the oil system, but if the hot water from the Itasca is joined to the return from the zones, the oil boiler will see a "mixed temp"...like 160.

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KLook
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Posts: 3633
Joined: Sun. Feb. 17, 2008 1:08 pm
Stoker Coal Boiler: Harman VF 3000
Coal Size/Type: rice, bagged, Blaschak
Other Heating: Gas boiler backup/main
Stove/Furnace Model: VF 3000
Location: Chattanooga, Tenn

Post Sun. Feb. 03, 2013 4:20 pm

And maybe not a biggie...why is the pressure so high?
Not enough expansion, look at the little tiny tank behind them.

I think it is draft related. Put a baro in and leave the flues connected. Find out what the over fire draft should be for that unit.

Kevin

My brother has been running a baro in his wood boiler for about 3 years and has had no issues. It makes the wood fire burn much steadier. Just like coal. And since he has a stainless chimney, not a frigging masonry one, it is not an issue.

Marcuss
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Posts: 17
Joined: Mon. Jan. 28, 2013 11:41 pm
Stove/Furnace Make: Itasca wood/coal boiler
Stove/Furnace Model: WCB 415

Post Sun. Feb. 03, 2013 4:48 pm

My flue is triple wall stainless and runs along the outside of the house thru the roof at the overhang. The roof comes out 3 feet past the exterior walls at the ends. What has me puzzled is it worked perfect when the flue had a obstruction.

Marcuss
New Member
Posts: 17
Joined: Mon. Jan. 28, 2013 11:41 pm
Stove/Furnace Make: Itasca wood/coal boiler
Stove/Furnace Model: WCB 415

Post Sun. Feb. 03, 2013 4:54 pm

The return from the house goes to the return of the coal boiler and the supply of the coal boiler runs to the return of the oil boiler, then the oil boiler supply runs to the fin tube and hydronic pipe manifold.

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McGiever
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Posts: 5997
Joined: Sun. May. 02, 2010 11:26 pm
Stoker Coal Boiler: AXEMAN-ANDERSON 130 "1959"
Coal Size/Type: PEA / ANTHRACITE
Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump
Stove/Furnace Make: Hydro Heat /Mega Tek
Location: Junction of PA-OH-WV

Post Sun. Feb. 03, 2013 6:41 pm

KLook wrote:
And maybe not a biggie...why is the pressure so high?
Not enough expansion, look at the little tiny tank behind them.

I think it is draft related. Put a baro in and leave the flues connected. Find out what the over fire draft should be for that unit.

Kevin

My brother has been running a baro in his wood boiler for about 3 years and has had no issues. It makes the wood fire burn much steadier. Just like coal. And since he has a stainless chimney, not a frigging masonry one, it is not an issue.
Would not the baro mounted over the oil unit work for the wood/coal unit?...creosote will not foul it where it is.
SLOW AND STEADY WINS THE RACE

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Dennis
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Posts: 1066
Joined: Sun. Oct. 30, 2011 5:44 pm
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: AHS/WOC55-multi-fuel/wood,oil,coal
Coal Size/Type: Anthracite/stove size
Location: Pottstown,Pa

Post Mon. Feb. 04, 2013 7:40 am

Does your oil burner keep the house warm and does the oil burner get to 180* and stay there.
What BTU rating is the oil burner
have you done a heat loss calculation for all those pipes
is the coal boiler and oil boiler equally sized


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Rob R.
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Posts: 11343
Joined: Fri. Dec. 28, 2007 4:26 pm
Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM DF520
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 50-93
Coal Size/Type: Lehigh Rice
Other Heating: Dad's 1953 EFM Highboy
Location: Chazy, NY

Post Mon. Feb. 04, 2013 8:16 am

This boiler is not some ultra-fancy rig that is hyper sensitive to draft. If you have enough draft to keep the smoke going in the right direction, it should be able to maintain temperature.

I just remembered that when I first started using my Itasca, it would take forever to recover when multiple zones kicked on...turned out the "thermostatic inlet damper control" was faulty and was not opening the inlet damper when the boiler temperature dropped. I replaced the control with a Samson unit from EFM and it worked much better.

If you adjust the damper to be barely open with the boiler at 180, and then the boiler gets drawn down to 160 you should see a visible difference in the damper opening. If that isn't happening, your control is probably faulty.

waldo lemieux
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Stove/Furnace Make: efm
Stove/Furnace Model: s-20
Location: Ithaca,NY

Post Mon. Feb. 04, 2013 8:34 am

Rob,

Isnt the water jacket on the oil boiler acting a a giant radiator and sending alot of heat up the chimney? Id turn off the oil burner and disconnect the smoke pipe and stuff it with insulation and see what happens. :gee:

Waldo
When faced with a seemingly impossible task, my grandfather always said "can't never can, untill try comes along"

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Rob R.
Site Moderator
Posts: 11343
Joined: Fri. Dec. 28, 2007 4:26 pm
Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM DF520
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 50-93
Coal Size/Type: Lehigh Rice
Other Heating: Dad's 1953 EFM Highboy
Location: Chazy, NY

Post Mon. Feb. 04, 2013 8:37 am

waldo lemieux wrote:Rob,

Isnt the water jacket on the oil boiler acting a a giant radiator and sending alot of heat up the chimney? Id turn off the oil burner and disconnect the smoke pipe and stuff it with insulation and see what happens. :gee:

Waldo
It is sending some up the stack, but hardly enough to keep the Itasca bogged down. I did the same thing with my system, disconnecting the flue from the oil boiler made no measurable difference in output or coal consumption.

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Dennis
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Posts: 1066
Joined: Sun. Oct. 30, 2011 5:44 pm
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: AHS/WOC55-multi-fuel/wood,oil,coal
Coal Size/Type: Anthracite/stove size
Location: Pottstown,Pa

Post Mon. Feb. 04, 2013 8:43 am

Rob R. wrote:This boiler is not some ultra-fancy rig that is hyper sensitive to draft. If you have enough draft to keep the smoke going in the right direction, it should be able to maintain temperature.

I just remembered that when I first started using my Itasca, it would take forever to recover when multiple zones kicked on...turned out the "thermostatic inlet damper control" was faulty and was not opening the inlet damper when the boiler temperature dropped. I replaced the control with a Samson unit from EFM and it worked much better.

If you adjust the damper to be barely open with the boiler at 180, and then the boiler gets drawn down to 160 you should see a visible difference in the damper opening. If that isn't happening, your control is probably faulty.
Could you just prop open the draft door "TEMPERARLY" untill the 180*, then close and see how the boiler reacts

waldo lemieux
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Posts: 2261
Joined: Sun. Sep. 30, 2012 8:20 pm
Stove/Furnace Make: efm
Stove/Furnace Model: s-20
Location: Ithaca,NY

Post Mon. Feb. 04, 2013 8:50 am

rob,

Re: Wood/Coal boiler
PostBy: Marcuss On: Sun Feb 03, 2013 5:48 pm
My flue is triple wall stainless and runs along the outside of the house thru the roof at the overhang. The roof comes out 3 feet past the exterior walls at the ends. What has me puzzled is it worked perfect when the flue had a obstruction
Doesnt this mean he has too much draft?
When faced with a seemingly impossible task, my grandfather always said "can't never can, untill try comes along"

Marcuss
New Member
Posts: 17
Joined: Mon. Jan. 28, 2013 11:41 pm
Stove/Furnace Make: Itasca wood/coal boiler
Stove/Furnace Model: WCB 415

Post Mon. Feb. 04, 2013 5:07 pm

After racking my mind over this it seems it turned out to be something as trivial as the door gasket. Yesterday I had no problem maintaining 175f after I cought something out of the corner of my eye when closing the damper in the flue. I noticed a little bit of smoke around the top of the door when I closed the damper. Seems air was diverted from the chain damper and was changing the burn to the top ofthe fire instead of under the fire. I vice gripped the door tight and the temperature began to rise to the correct operating temperature. I ordered door gasket matereal and will replace it soon as I recive it. So far it seems that that has been the problem......I hope itis.

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oliver power
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Posts: 2266
Joined: Sun. Apr. 16, 2006 9:28 am
Stoker Coal Boiler: KEYSTOKER Kaa-2
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 50-93 & 30-95, Vigilant (pre-Vigilant-II), D.S. 1600 Circulator
Baseburners & Antiques: MANY (Mostly when burning wood)
Location: Near Dansville, NY

Post Mon. Feb. 04, 2013 6:18 pm

I'm staying out of this............


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