504 Tarm Boiler

 
memco man
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Location: vermont
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1981 KA-6 Keystoker
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Hand Fed Coal Stove: jotul NR 507, crane coal cooker 44, crane 404, chubby w/blower, chubby w/out blower, franco blege 10-475 Montgomery ward laundry stove Moore's Brother seventeen circulator stove
Coal Size/Type: nut/anthracite/pea
Other Heating: harman p68, elmtree,harthstone,new mack

Post by memco man » Thu. Sep. 06, 2012 10:18 pm

Thank you oilman and Whistlenut for the good advice that artical about the tarms was a blast from the past thank you for the link as usal Whistlenut you are full of good advice I will mix the coal with the wood when I start burning see how it works I am just wondering if I should use the coal plates when I do this or run it with out the plates I will have to try it both ways I guess and see what works best
I hope that you guys are having a good summer mine has been very busy it seem that it just got here and now it almost gone the trees are starting to turn already up on the hights :o
thanks again
Memco man :D


 
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offcoursey
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Post by offcoursey » Fri. Sep. 07, 2012 7:15 am

Hi,
I just saw one of these the other day in a freind's basement. He is renting the house. The boiler is a 1978, looks really clean, and has the yearly cleaning/inspection done. I have never seen a multi-fuel before this. There is also about 4 tons of nut in the basement that he can use. My freind is not a coal burner but may become one soon....now. I am a hand fed stove burner so I know the basics. I was looking at the coal side of the boiler and two questions come to mind. Looking at the coal grates, just above them on the left side of the firebox, there is an opening that goes into the middle area where the chimney is located. How can you build a deep bed of coal with that opening there? Is there a plate to cover that while burning coal? I read about the damper and it's four positions that is inside near the chimney area. I understand that part.
The baro looks like a simple, non-adjustable one you find on an oil burner, should that be switched to a RC model? Also, there is a cap for the baro... chained to it. On the cover, ingraved in the metal, it says to install the cover when burning solid fuel, but I think they mean when burning wood.
Thanks, Glynn

 
memco man
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Posts: 217
Joined: Mon. Oct. 24, 2011 10:18 pm
Location: vermont
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1981 KA-6 Keystoker
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Tarms 504
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: alaska liberty
Hand Fed Coal Stove: jotul NR 507, crane coal cooker 44, crane 404, chubby w/blower, chubby w/out blower, franco blege 10-475 Montgomery ward laundry stove Moore's Brother seventeen circulator stove
Coal Size/Type: nut/anthracite/pea
Other Heating: harman p68, elmtree,harthstone,new mack

Post by memco man » Fri. Sep. 07, 2012 11:17 pm

I am not sure what you are talking about a hole in the center my greats go front to back I have seven total when you burn coal in it you pull the last two greats out and put a plate in there and two up right plates in the back(this turns the boiler into a updraft boiler) there is a picture of them in this thread I posted them a couple of mounths ago I also have a samson draft control that controls the draft on the intake when I set it up I will put a baromitric damper on the exhaust.
If you could post some pictures that would help there is a lot of knowledge in this form and I am sure that all your questions can and will be answer also the brand make and modle would help as well

 
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offcoursey
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Post by offcoursey » Sat. Sep. 08, 2012 6:31 am

Thanks,
I didn't know two grates had to come out and a couple of plates installed. The boiler has coal grates but the entire solid fuel burning area is coal grates. I will have to look for the plates when I go over to his house. The boiler is the same model on the popular mechanic magazine link posted above. I'm not sure of the actual model (It is 140,000btu...DTK50?) . The boiler has the sampson draft controller too and the automatic mixing valve set up. The opening I was referring to is about 4" above the grates, on the left side of the firebox(The fire box is on the right side). The opening goes from the fire box into the center area where the stack enters the boiler but down in the bottom of that area. I know pictures will help a lot and I will get some as soon as I can. I'm just trying to save the guy some money and learn something along the way.
Glynn

 
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offcoursey
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Post by offcoursey » Mon. Oct. 15, 2012 1:17 pm

I now see that on the left side of the grates where the coal fire box opens into the center area, there an incline that will keep the coal where it belongs. There are 5 grates in the fire box. The boiler is set up for summer running on oil only right now. Other then moving the plate in the middle chamber from horizonal to the #2 or #3 position, is there anything else I need to install or move to begin burning coal?

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offcoursey
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Post by offcoursey » Mon. Oct. 15, 2012 1:19 pm

Does this plate have a purpose?

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Rob R.
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Post by Rob R. » Mon. Oct. 15, 2012 1:27 pm

offcoursey wrote:Does this plate have a purpose?
Looks like a baffle that should hang in the firebox.


 
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whistlenut
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Post by whistlenut » Mon. Oct. 15, 2012 1:31 pm

It hangs inside the top of the feed door and is suppose to keep any smoke within the boiler. Very common on this type of boiler or furnaces of this variety. :idea:

 
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Townsend
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Post by Townsend » Mon. Oct. 15, 2012 3:08 pm

Nice job and great looking boiler.

 
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offcoursey
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Post by offcoursey » Tue. Oct. 16, 2012 8:15 am

Thanks for the info!
The boiler has not been used for coal in a while and I burn a hand fired so I'm not too sure how to work this boiler. It is serviced every year but who knows how much the service tech knows about the coal side of things. I should be able light it up like a hand fired. I understand how to adjust the sampson draft control initially and the rest is fine tuning...correct? Is there anything I need to do regarding the oil side of things....to switch it to coal just move the chimney plate from horizonal to postion 2?

Glynn

 
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BlueFlame
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Hand Fed Coal Boiler: HS Tarm 504
Coal Size/Type: Nut

Post by BlueFlame » Sat. Nov. 29, 2014 11:22 am

Bought a house with a 504. Going with coal, so bought the $600 coal baffles and base plate. Ok with keeping a fire going. The problem I have is with the base plate sliding back over time due to the action of the grates. That causes a larger gap between the last grate and the base plate & the baffles to tilt forward. Tarm tech support said to remove the bolt in the last grate so it doesn't move when shaking ash down. Did that, but then there's an ash build up at the rear.

:?: Any advice in getting the base plate to lock in better so it doesn't slide back? Or do I go with immobilizing the last grate and put up with build up in the rear?

 
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Post by franco b » Sat. Nov. 29, 2014 11:39 am

BlueFlame wrote: Any advice in getting the base plate to lock in better so it doesn't slide back? Or do I go with immobilizing the last grate and put up with build up in the rear?
I would consider installing fire brick over that last grate position and make a smaller fire box. I suspect it is too big anyway.

 
memco man
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Posts: 217
Joined: Mon. Oct. 24, 2011 10:18 pm
Location: vermont
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1981 KA-6 Keystoker
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Tarms 504
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: alaska liberty
Hand Fed Coal Stove: jotul NR 507, crane coal cooker 44, crane 404, chubby w/blower, chubby w/out blower, franco blege 10-475 Montgomery ward laundry stove Moore's Brother seventeen circulator stove
Coal Size/Type: nut/anthracite/pea
Other Heating: harman p68, elmtree,harthstone,new mack

Post by memco man » Sat. Nov. 29, 2014 8:54 pm

I have a 504 which I am setting up for coal the I believe that you are suppose to remove the last great from the boiler and set the backer or up right plate in the slot that the great was in I have not done it yet there was a manual posted on the internet if you can't find it I am sure I have a electronic manual that I can send to you if you need one I am hoping to have mine going in another month still working on the room that the boiler is in.

 
memco man
Member
Posts: 217
Joined: Mon. Oct. 24, 2011 10:18 pm
Location: vermont
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1981 KA-6 Keystoker
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Tarms 504
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: alaska liberty
Hand Fed Coal Stove: jotul NR 507, crane coal cooker 44, crane 404, chubby w/blower, chubby w/out blower, franco blege 10-475 Montgomery ward laundry stove Moore's Brother seventeen circulator stove
Coal Size/Type: nut/anthracite/pea
Other Heating: harman p68, elmtree,harthstone,new mack

Post by memco man » Sat. Nov. 29, 2014 10:50 pm

Dose your plate have a pin that sticks out an inch if it dose that should fit into your great slot that should keep it from sliding back if it dose not you could weld a pin onto the base plate and that should take care of your problem
Have a good day
Memco man

 
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BlueFlame
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Coal Size/Type: Nut

Post by BlueFlame » Sun. Nov. 30, 2014 8:19 am

Thanks for the replies. With the 504, the last two rocking grates are removed. The base plate sits where those two grate were. Now the last rocking grate that's next to the base plate will by nature, slowly push the base plate back and after a few weeks the baffles are leaning forward.

Pins that fit into the slots vacated by the rocking grates would be the best solution. Considering They were $600, that would have been a friendly gesture. Why the rear left corner of the baseplate is notched out is a mystery.

I'm going back to Tarm's tech support suggestion and removing the bolt from the last grate and deal with the ash build in the back. I may put fire brick over top, not to reduce firebox size, but to stop the grate from doing 180' roll and staying upside down.

Thanks again for the help. Much appreciated.

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Last two grate removed

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Base plate in place

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