504 Tarm Boiler

 
Antique-Engine
New Member
Posts: 10
Joined: Sat. Apr. 30, 2022 11:57 am
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Tarm 504 Wood/Coal/Oil Boiler & Chappee C-210 Coal Boiler
Coal Size/Type: Nut
Other Heating: Propane, Firewood, & Oil

Post by Antique-Engine » Sun. May. 15, 2022 6:52 pm

Thank you. That's good information. I'm mainly interested in it for burning coal, but if I do go with it and decide to burn wood in it, I'll make sure to burn it hot.

 
Rkattamis
New Member
Posts: 2
Joined: Sat. Oct. 22, 2022 8:38 am
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: HS Tarm 504

Post by Rkattamis » Sat. Oct. 22, 2022 10:08 am

We bought a property in Oct 2021 that came with a HS Tarm 504. Knowing little about burning wood (my experience is limited to feeding my parents furnace in my youth and my husband has zero), we strictly burned oil last heating season. I probably don't have to tell you we chewed through oil. And our warmest setpoint was 64 degrees.

Several months ago, we decided to burn wood this winter. We've researched and learned a lot about heating wood. We have procured 5 cords of seasoned hardwood from a reliable source (and we're working on sourcing more). But we're not quite there.

We first cleaned out the chimney with our inherited brush (15+ lbs of creosote...not sure if that was one season as prior owner said to clean the chimney annually but I don't know if he actually did himself). Then we asked the previous owner to walk us through the process of burning wood as that's what he burned. He basically showed us that he loaded it with wood, lit the fire and just kept it going. When I asked, he didn't ever use the inlet in the fire door or secondary inlet (they were seized shut but we've since freed them). He had the SAMSON draft regulator set to 50 and told us not to adjust it (the manual suggests around 80). I didn't feel the previous owner was using or maintaining the system properly so I decided I better get to inspecting what I can or know how to. We've scraped and cleaned out visible ash and creosote inside the boiler. I replaced the two rope door gaskets and the sheet gasket on the airflow clean out lid. One of the four threaded bolts was missing for the clean out lid. So, we had someone weld a fourth back on yesterday. Three grates we're completely missing in the firebox but I bought replacements ($$$) from Tarm. We don't have the rod that attaches to and rotates the grates. But we were able to get a makeshift assembly. The only other thing I found is a weak latch on the fire door. The metal on the tip part of the latch is worn down (I compared it to the ash door lever). It takes little effort to latch/unlatch the door AND to know if it is properly latched.

Here is where we are stuck. We can't get the fire door off so we can knock the pin out in order to replace the latch. We've been in touch with the US Tarm supplier in Orford, NH and they said the door needs to be off. If we break the door assembly, a new one runs $600. Give we don't know our long-term plan for our heating system, that's a big investment. Is there possibly anyone on here with any tips or tricks? Part of the issue is that someone used a bolt instead of the intended headless pin to seat one of the hinges. So, we can't just slip the door up and off the hinge pin. Adding to this, this same hinge looks to be almost rusted through in one spot. So, we're nervous to use much force. If we end up breaking the door hinge, does anyone on here happen to have an old used Tarm 504 fire door? Or, do you know where we can get used parts? My husband is a mechanical engineer with a lot of DIY skills (he's installed a few oil boilers in the past few years) but this monstrous boiler is beyond his comfort level. We also have the really big, old circulators that someone mentioned. I noticed yesterday that one is dripping. 😥 My husband is hoping the dripping stops when we get the system going...

Given we're just coming into this house, we're trying to survive with what we have until we can save up and figure things out (Ideally a system with increased efficiency). I tried to get the Tarm supplier to come do a site visit to inspect and walk us through proper usage but they are short staffed. I don't suppose anyone on here wants to share their operational knowledge via a phone, video or site visit (I've read the manual)? Or, come look at my system? I'm happy to try to barter or pay. It's mid-October and we still haven't fired the boiler. :(

Thank you for taking time to read my long saga. I recognize the majority on here are VERY skilled and fortunate. We do a lot but this is not within our skill set. If you can help or know someone willing to help serve someone in need, I would be forever grateful to you!

Thanks in advance,
Rebecca
(VT area code)359.seven059
Near White River Junction VT on NH side
Last edited by Rkattamis on Sat. Oct. 22, 2022 12:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.

 
Antique-Engine
New Member
Posts: 10
Joined: Sat. Apr. 30, 2022 11:57 am
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Tarm 504 Wood/Coal/Oil Boiler & Chappee C-210 Coal Boiler
Coal Size/Type: Nut
Other Heating: Propane, Firewood, & Oil

Post by Antique-Engine » Sat. Oct. 22, 2022 11:15 am

Hi Rebecca,

I Bought and installed a Tarm 504 this past spring. I (and my employees) decided to take all the sheet metal jacket panels off to inspect and clean the entire boiler, so I had to remove both doors to do this. The doors "frames" on mine are held on with four studs with nuts. If I remember correctly, we had to heat a couple of the nuts, but were able to unscrew them all without breaking any of the studs. I'm thinking it may be easier to take the whole door "frame" off with the door and then if necessary you could take it to a welding shop or similar type of shop where someone can help repair the hinge pins. If you need any photos of my boiler, just let me know. We're burning mostly coal, so I can't offer too much help with burning wood, but I can tell you that as other people pointed out, you need to burn it hot with wood to keep creosote to a minimum. Also, If you ever decide replace it with a more efficient unit, I may be interested in buying this one from you. Good luck with it!


 
Rkattamis
New Member
Posts: 2
Joined: Sat. Oct. 22, 2022 8:38 am
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: HS Tarm 504

Post by Rkattamis » Sat. Oct. 22, 2022 12:38 pm

Thank you so much! I wish we had the time and manpower to take ours to that level (I don't think the "water heater" coil is working in ours). We did spray the nuts last night as removing the frame was our next thought (my husband would rather not as he's afraid we might not get it back on). I think I saw it looks like there is a gasket between the jacket and doorframe, which we want to be sure we can source before we attempt to separate. I saw your pictures. Your unit is nice and clean! I am impressed.

 
Antique-Engine
New Member
Posts: 10
Joined: Sat. Apr. 30, 2022 11:57 am
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Tarm 504 Wood/Coal/Oil Boiler & Chappee C-210 Coal Boiler
Coal Size/Type: Nut
Other Heating: Propane, Firewood, & Oil

Post by Antique-Engine » Sat. Oct. 22, 2022 12:55 pm

Yes, it is very clean. I drove to northern Mass. (I'm in northeast PA) to get it, and I'm very happy with it. The material I bought to make the gaskets was called ceramic fiber insulation sheet for furnaces from McMaster-Carr. If you copy and paste the following, hopefully it will get you to the item I bought: https://www.mcmaster.com/93285K18 I'm not sure that it's the perfect material, but it seemed to meet the requirements and it was easy to work with.

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