Coalpail.com Forum

Been burning wood in it for the past 22 years and it worked great.I would like to burn coal so I bought a few bags to give it a trial run.I had no problem getting a coal fire going thanks to this forum but I did have a problem keeping it going . I did read you need a deep fire which I didn't have so that solves one problem.The other problem I had is the shaker grates get stuck and I couldn't shake it down . I think the newer models have a different shaker system but not sure.The grates are in good shape and work fine when nothing is in it. I never used them for the wood as I just used a poker which worked fine with wood.If anyone has one of these boilers or knows what might be wrong I could sure use your help.Do other stoves have similar problems ? I need to switch over to coal as I am to old to do the wood thing anymore and oil to expensive.

Thanks,

Post a pic or two of you setup and grates and what size coal are you using?

I was using nut coal as per instructions on the unit, as far as picture have no idea how to do that( old school ) . It is hooked up to a good chimney with a barometric damper now for coal not so when I was burning wood. This was all done professionally by my plumber.

find a digital camera or someone who has one...
Then upload a few to the forum...
Take a few pictures of the grate area...
Like a crime photo get the details...
Pics are worth a thousand words...
They may just be a bit crusty, the grates, from not being moved...
A good cleanout pull the grates and clean the pockets where they rotate on...

The weather is warming up now so the oil boiler is turned back on. I will take out grates when I have a chance and clean them up but they do look very good. I'll clean out the pockets as you suggested. I was hopeing someone on the forum had the same unit so they could tell me how they make out with it useing coal .

Thanks for the help

I have had similar situations...I believe the problem lies in the number of clinkers that settle in the grates. I actually put a short breaker bar on the shaker handle...I am curious if this is due to the square box which does not allow for a full burn in the corners...I am thinking of fabricating a round insert that will loosely set in the fire box, hopefully this will create a more efficient burn. Any feed back from the experts?

hcarlow wrote:The other problem I had is the shaker grates get stuck and I couldn't shake it down .

You may be shaking too much.
Try to shake and stop when you start seeing little red coals in the ash pan.
You might be shaking the unburnt coal into the grates and it's getting jambed up.

Thanks guys for the input, I recently sold the newyorker and replaced it with a LL 110 boiler . I 'm waiting for the weather to cool down a bit before starting that .

I'm betting that you feel the learning curve is NOW much shorter. I know you will be happy with that boiler! Let us know about the first few weeks, and don't be afraid to ask questions.

Okay, so had my NewYorker WC90 installed last Feb, haven't fired the oil boiler since. Burnt wood all thru the summer no sweat. Didn't think it got cold enough last winter to try coal, but I burned some this weekend. Same problem keeping the burn going after 12 hrs. No problem getting it started, unbelievably consistent low maint heat! Left the ash door open, went down a few hrs later. It was glowing inside the firebox, but the stove pipe was just warm. Shut the doors and by morning the coal fire had died. Relit with oak, added a bit 1-3#'s of coal, got the boiler up to temp, now its dying again. Opened ash door hoping it reignites. My 1st experience with coal.

1. Cover the entire grate with coal, air must not be able to bypass the coal bed.

2. Fill the firebox with coal, at least 6" deep.

4Mainer wrote:Okay, so had my NewYorker WC90 installed last Feb, haven't fired the oil boiler since. Burnt wood all thru the summer no sweat. Didn't think it got cold enough last winter to try coal, but I burned some this weekend. Same problem keeping the burn going after 12 hrs. No problem getting it started, unbelievably consistent low maint heat! Left the ash door open, went down a few hrs later. It was glowing inside the firebox, but the stove pipe was just warm. Shut the doors and by morning the coal fire had died. Relit with oak, added a bit 1-3#'s of coal, got the boiler up to temp, now its dying again. Opened ash door hoping it reignites. My 1st experience with coal.

DO you have a damper? Manual or Barometric?
How about a manometer to check draft pressure?

Sounds like you may not be shaking the ash out enough or your draft isn't steady - a manometer would be of great benefit to see what the draft is doing thru the 12 hour burn. These abnormally warm temps outside don't help drafting either. That pipe should be getting hot with the ash pan door open for 20 minutes if you are clearing ash good and have a good draft. And as mentioned above, fill that firebox to the top of the firebrick. Coal likes a deep bed. I run mine 12-14 inches deep.

Here is a good thread on shake down and reloading

Shaking Down/Reloading A Mature Fire

A little more info about my system: Field Controls RC Barometric Damper, Taco 4 zone relay, 50gal SuperstorContender (C/L), 6" single wall stove pipe to a Excel 6" chimney pipe (C/L) thru concrete cellar wall running up the back side of my 2 story cape. The boiler, superstor & chimney I bought on craigslist, everything else is new. Coal depth & grate coverage - good tips. I'll pick up a manometer (is there a thread on manometers?) No firebricks in a NY'er - removable angled iron sides direct the ash to the shaker grates. Basically fill the coal to just below the bottom of the fb opening.
I'm not complaining about the lack of heat in the stove pipe, coal makes for a more efficient burn. I cut my own wood so I'm not too worried about the low efficiency.
Now that we're back to warmer temps we've switched back to wood. Our plan is to burn coal during extended cold snaps. So how do you completely burn the coal in boiler or is that not possible a/c too shallow & lack of coverage?