New Boiler Temps

macdabs · Post by **macdabs** » Mon. Feb. 21, 2011 4:30 pm

Bob,
I have the two knobs closed burning Anthracite . I open them burning wood. The two knobs on the lower ash door our fixed for show only. The two flappers on the side are controlled by the Samson valve our for the air inlet . Why they have the bottom knobs for show puzzled me ,who is going to put a boiler in their living room .

I know I need a manometer I ordered a digital one to beat the learning curve on the Dwyer unit. I was hoping for it today it was sent Postal express . ship anything for five bucks ... except Holidays .

The temp picture with wood at above 200* was I did not have the shop on line for the dump zone. It came down to 180-190 after I turned the stat on. If I can get the coal to heat like the wood I will need to install the dump zone. You can see the plumbing is ready for the pump in the one pic this will feed a snowmelt for garage door aprons I hope to pour this spring .

Mac

RMA · Post by **RMA** » Mon. Feb. 21, 2011 5:08 pm

Mac,
It seems you have those basic areas covered.
You've got a handle on the manometer; maybe that can
help solve the problem.
You know too that coal loves a really deep bed...
You have a lot guys pulling for you on this one...
I'm sure you'll get it worked out.

Bob

Post by **Rob R.** » Mon. Feb. 21, 2011 5:21 pm

Does this boiler have a thermostatic draft control?

macdabs · Post by **macdabs** » Mon. Feb. 21, 2011 5:31 pm

It has a samson control setup with a chain connected to the draft flappers on the side near the ash door. That adjustment and the operation is a work in progress.I have been making minor adjustments and taking notes..

MAC

Post by **Rob R.** » Mon. Feb. 21, 2011 5:43 pm

I had the same setup on my Itasca. Set the control to 180 degrees and adjust the chain so the inlet damper is nearly closed. Fine tune the control to maintain the temperature you want.

lsayre · Post by **lsayre** » Mon. Feb. 21, 2011 8:15 pm

macdabs, you sure have done some mighty fine plumbing work there!!!

CapeCoaler · Post by **CapeCoaler** » Mon. Feb. 21, 2011 9:29 pm

Well the good thing is the boiler can heat the space...
The coal fire is rippin'...
Looks like the wood was added on top of the coal fire, yes...
We just need to keep the heat in the boiler so it can transfer to the water...
200* on the outside of a Class A chimney...
The heat is going up the flue...
When you added wood on top of the coal fire it made it hella hot...
and gave the boiler a lot of extra heat...
If you replace the first few feet of Class A with regular stove pipe...
Hooking up the Manometer and MPD would be easier...
A probe thermometer would tell the rest of the story...
If the stack temps read too high we know where all the heat is going...
Very nice install by the way...
You will soon have this thing workin' the way it should be...
Just a bit of a learning curve...

oliver power · Post by **oliver power** » Mon. Feb. 21, 2011 11:30 pm

Another shot in the dark........With the wood fire, your boiler temps come up. You may have added over the fire air. Wood likes over the fire air. Anthracite coal doesn't like over the fire air. Question: How's the loading door gasket? Other members who bought DS Machine stoves had a problem with paint on the door gaskets from the factory. I believe the doors were not properly sealing, dampenning the coal fire. Maybee???????? How well are the loading door vents sealing? Yet, the coal is burning up. ?????????????????

macdabs · Post by **macdabs** » Tue. Feb. 22, 2011 5:23 am

The pictures with the wood was almost all wood embers , the stove really burns wood well .

I have a double sided fireplace that takes up half my living roof with fans that will not produce the heat that the boiler can without sucking half of the heat out of the house. If I was retired I would just burn wood in the darn thing all the time.

The door I think is sealing pretty good I have a co2 detector next to the stove that has yet to detect anything.
We got dumped on snow last night I hope my manometer arrives today to get a handle on this and correct the problem or move forward with another boiler that way I am ready for next year . The ton of hard coal is almost gone and with all the snow it will be tough to find some good clean dry hard coal in our area this close to the end of the season.

Mac

oliver power · Post by **oliver power** » Tue. Feb. 22, 2011 6:13 am

macdabs wrote:The pictures with the wood was almost all wood embers , the stove really burns wood well . I have a double sided fireplace that takes up half my living roof with fans that will not produce the heat that the boiler can without sucking half of the heat out of the house. If I was retired I would just burn wood in the darn thing all the time.

The door I think is sealing pretty good I have a co2 detector next to the stove that has yet to detect anything.
We got dumped on snow last night I hope my manometer arrives today to get a handle on this and correct the problem or move forward with another boiler that way I am ready for next year . The ton of hard coal is almost gone and with all the snow it will be tough to find some good clean dry hard coal in our area this close to the end of the season.

Mac

I was talking about air leaking in over the coal fire, dampening the coal fire. Where as a wood fire would thrive in same situation. It's a long shot, due to the fact that the coal is all burning up. I still say trap the heat, and add a baro. Is there a hanging baffle that was supposed to come with that boiler, but did not? KEYSTOKER boilers have water walls, low stack outlet, and hanging baffle. The baffle hangs on a couple hooks. How about a picture of the rest of your firebox (3" water tubes, walls, smoke outlet, etc.). Fireplaces are never efficient. That's why the fireplace insert was invented.

macdabs · Post by **macdabs** » Tue. Feb. 22, 2011 8:43 am

There is a hanging flap above the loading door all it does is keep the fly ash back I think and deflect the flames if you open the door with the damper closed . I will try to get some pics of the fire box today . Also the boiler temp was at 100* at 5:30 am I loaded it to the max at 11:30 Pm . When the bed gets half way down I noticed the coal on the outer edge turn grey and the rear of the box do not burn as good . This makes it difficult to pack the stove again and get a good fire going so the boiler struggles again to get back up to temp. Not to mention if you have a zone for a heat call everything takes that much longer. I think the ash buildup in the 6 hours could be killing the burn also . I was really waiting to hear from someone that is using the same boiler to compare notes... I attached a copy of the only thing I got with the boiler for setup and operation.
Mac

oliver power · Post by **oliver power** » Tue. Feb. 22, 2011 10:58 am

macdabs wrote:There is a hanging flap above the loading door all it does is keep the fly ash back I think and deflect the flames if you open the door with the damper closed . I will try to get some pics of the fire box today . Also the boiler temp was at 100* at 5:30 am I loaded it to the max at 11:30 Pm . When the bed gets half way down I noticed the coal on the outer edge turn grey and the rear of the box do not burn as good . This makes it difficult to pack the stove again and get a good fire going so the boiler struggles again to get back up to temp. Not to mention if you have a zone for a heat call everything takes that much longer. I think the ash buildup in the 6 hours could be killing the burn also . I was really waiting to hear from someone that is using the same boiler to compare notes... I attached a copy of the only thing I got with the boiler for setup and operation.
Mac

The hanging flap at the load door is to help keep smoke from comming out when the door opens. Quite common on wood burners.

macdabs · Post by **macdabs** » Tue. Feb. 22, 2011 4:23 pm

My wife called the manometer arrived. What is the best place to drill the hole above the MPD 8"? I got a digital handheld unit with a brass barb fitting. She shot me pic looks pretty nice .Can't wait to get some readings with the MPD closed and opened.

Mac

Post by **Rob R.** » Tue. Feb. 22, 2011 4:33 pm

Between the flue collar and your MPD. You want to know what the draft is at the breech.

Sting · Post by **Sting** » Tue. Feb. 22, 2011 5:02 pm

macdabs wrote:My wife called the manometer arrived. What is the best place to drill the hole above the MPD 8"? I got a digital handheld unit with a brass barb fitting. She shot me pic looks pretty nice .Can't wait to get some readings with the MPD closed and opened.

Mac

AS close to the appliance as possible

Mine is directly sampling the upper smoke chamber before it enters the pipe. It should be placed on yours so as never to be fooled by any external devices between it and the fire and it will then respond to things you change as with the MPD or the TDY or the LSMFT!

New Boiler Temps

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