pricing installation

 
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Sylvesterd101
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Post by Sylvesterd101 » Sat. Dec. 15, 2018 1:57 pm

okay, thanks nepa!


 
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nepacoal
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Post by nepacoal » Sat. Dec. 15, 2018 2:08 pm

I try to set mine up (fine tune it) on the first 20 degree calm morning. You might not be able to get .05 today with It being almost 50 and so calm and damp.

 
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Sylvesterd101
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Post by Sylvesterd101 » Sun. Dec. 16, 2018 4:52 pm

okay another thing i have been thinking about, i have summer winter hookup, so coal will heat my water. Unfortunately i dont want to fight the boiler dumping hot water in the summer with my ac units. i noticed in my manual it has 2 button posts that are labeled for electric backup.. but i cant find anything on them on the web or anything about it? Would i be better off getting a small electric water heater for the summer? or just burning a small amount of coal in the summer

 
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Post by Qtown1835 » Sun. Dec. 16, 2018 5:35 pm

I run my electric tank in the summer. After a winter of dumping Ash I'm ready for a break. Plus like you said you don't need to crank the AC to offset the radiant heat from the boiler. JMO.

 
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Post by Sylvesterd101 » Tue. Feb. 12, 2019 4:26 pm

Hey fellas it's been a long time since I've been on everything has been going good so far this winter I just had one issue pop up that I'm trying to figure out but not quite sure of above my flue pipe I have a drop ceiling and right now I moved the panel out of the way so it doesn't catch fire anything because with the panel above the flue pipe it reaches about 200 degrees on full blast and climbs so if anybody has any idea of what I can do to this panel so I can put it back so it doesn't look like crap that would be great include a picture of the panel

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Post by titleist1 » Tue. Feb. 12, 2019 4:33 pm

How much space between the pipe and the ceiling panel when it is in place, 1", 2", 3" ??

 
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Post by Sylvesterd101 » Tue. Feb. 12, 2019 5:28 pm

Bout an inch, the only thing i could think of is having someone machine or cut aluminum the same dimensions as the tile and replace it


 
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Post by StokerDon » Tue. Feb. 12, 2019 6:27 pm

That is a whole lot of combustibles right near your pipe! Ceiling tiles, wood, electrical wires, where is the boiler? It doesn't look like its in the same room as the chimney?

The only thing you can really do is make a heat shield for that whole piece of pipe. Even then you need a few inches of clearance though.

-Don

 
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Post by Rob R. » Tue. Feb. 12, 2019 6:43 pm

Sylvesterd101 wrote:
Tue. Feb. 12, 2019 5:28 pm
Bout an inch, the only thing i could think of is having someone machine or cut aluminum the same dimensions as the tile and replace it
You should be able to get a stamped metal ceiling tile that fits the opening.

https://www.metalceilingexpress.com/?matchtype=e& ... nOEALw_wcB

 
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Post by Sylvesterd101 » Tue. Feb. 12, 2019 7:27 pm

Yeah that was the plumbing inspectors concern with a combustible material around the flue pipe the boiler is right underneath where the flue pipe goes through the wall there that setup was original to the oil burner that was in prior to me installing the coal boiler he advised me to cut a square around the flue pipe and give it some space because it burns hotter than an oil pipe I figured I do that when I go down for the summer when I have an electric water heater installed

 
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Post by coaledsweat » Wed. Feb. 13, 2019 8:21 am

Wrap the stove pipe with the thick boiler gasket (I forget what it's called but it is thick and like cotten ball in texture. Comes in rolls). Then a sheet of aluminum to replace the tile.

 
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Post by Sylvesterd101 » Wed. Feb. 13, 2019 9:22 am

coaledsweat, thanks for the info. i was looking for something easy like that lol, i have fireblankets at work was thinking of trying wrapping it in that or ill look for boiler gaskets

 
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Post by CoalisCoolxWarm » Wed. Feb. 13, 2019 3:18 pm

Pretty sure that "safe" doesn't equal "meets code" ;)

We ran into that with the old hand fired. Since it didn't have the new UL rating, it falls under default clearances.

If you want to be 'legal' the best thing you can do is throw $300 at a zero clearance triple wall piece of pipe for that area.

Otherwise, the best remediation you can get is 12" with heat shields and such- even though it is plenty safe, the fire code is fairly strict.

This is from memory. I can pull the code if you need it exactly, but your clearances are too close in any category for single wall pipe.

The other option is to build a box style opening in your ceiling to get the required clearances. It would be big and obvious and still collect heat (even though it might be technically legal). The pipe is the better way to go, IMHO.

Feel free to point out anything I missed.

Edit: Table from Section 18 ICC 2009
Clearances.png
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ICC Clearances 803.10.6 Table.png
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ICC Clearances 803.10.6 Table.png
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Post by Sylvesterd101 » Wed. Feb. 13, 2019 11:20 pm

Well i had my borough plumbing inspector inspect it and he didnt say it violated any codes

 
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Post by McGiever » Wed. Feb. 13, 2019 11:30 pm

Hope you got his signature on it too.
May not cut it that he didn't say anything after all the fire trucks have left...


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