Protecting The Hopper
Hello good folks. I've posted several times in the past. This past year we had lots of problems with stokers. Our original stoker was very dependable but the hopper rusted and we had to get a new stoker. We had nothing but problems from it and survived much of last winter by using electric heaters. That was very expensive. After last winter we actually purchased the same model stoker as out original. We have it hooked up and ready for this winter. Before we use it I am wanting to protect the hopper so it will last as long as possible. I need to know if any of you know of something I can use to coat the inside of the hopper with to prevent it from rusting. Is there a certain kind of paint or should we cover it with something like they spray in beds of trucks? Any information would be appreciated. Thanks for taking the time to read and respond.
- McGiever
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- Location: Junction of PA-OH-WV
- Stoker Coal Boiler: AXEMAN-ANDERSON 130 "1959"
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- Coal Size/Type: PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE
- Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump and some Solar
Yeah i remember, Bituminous coal in a Combustioneer Stoker.
Sorry. I'm no help on coating a steel hopper, I use 275 gallon plastic IBC for a hopper.
Sorry. I'm no help on coating a steel hopper, I use 275 gallon plastic IBC for a hopper.
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- Location: Coal Township Pa
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- Coal Size/Type: rice and pea
I have been using a spray on paint by the name of 'Stove Bright' . It is what Alaska sells for painting their stoves. It definitely is durable from my experience.
- coaledsweat
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I would avoid pickup bed liner coatings. They tend to be a non slip surface and you want the coal to slip.
- lsayre
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Surfaces with a bit of tiny but uniform bumping generally have lower friction coefficients than do completely smooth surfaces made of the exact same material.
For example: Dobsonian telescope makers learned many years ago that stippled Formica (type material) makes for a far smoother operating bearing surface than does the same bearing when covered with completely smooth Formica. And those who grind the cooking surface of their cast iron pans dead smooth are doing themselves a disservice.
For example: Dobsonian telescope makers learned many years ago that stippled Formica (type material) makes for a far smoother operating bearing surface than does the same bearing when covered with completely smooth Formica. And those who grind the cooking surface of their cast iron pans dead smooth are doing themselves a disservice.
- rockwood
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- Coal Size/Type: Lump and stoker + Blaschak-stove size
If the original tar coating has worn away (worn down to the metal) then I would coat it with a good quality rust-resistant spray paint. Be sure to wipe coal dust, etc. off before painting it. If the hopper is already rusted you could use one of those rust converter/reformer sprays before giving it a good coat of paint.
- carlherrnstein
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This might be too simple but, oil the coal. I use used oil engine, hydraulic, whatever.
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I painted my hopper with stainless steel paint the last three years on my LL lil heater hopper. This year I bought a larger stainless hopper for the stoker.
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I put a 300w sump heater on the inverted ash bin of my AK180. People who run their stoves 12 months a year so not have these problems provided the coal is reasonably dry. I never have this problem. Sure, I use a little more electricity in the summer but nothing like this effort which costs more. In fact, I am considering running one stoker on Min 2 or even 1 next year. I have the dist. fan on a separate circuit and it would remain unplugged for the summer. What am I missing?