Combustioneer 77B Burner

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Teddy
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Stoker Coal Boiler: building coal burning boiler
Coal Size/Type: stoker 2"/bituminous

Post By: Teddy » Wed. Oct. 26, 2016 11:00 am

I am building a new boiler (hot water 180 F) and want to use the burner out of my Combustioneer 77B air heater. I have successfully run the burner cleanly at 0.7 #coal/Hr by taking off the blower and replacing it with a variable speed controlled DC motored blower and pre-heating the combustion air to 150 F. My coal is 11,700 Btu/# . The goal is to heat my 1000 gal water storage tank to 180 F on high heat, 8.0 #coal/Hr, then go to a clean burning 0.7 #coal/Hr. I am now trying to get the burner out of the Combustioneer to put it into the new boiler to be. Is it fire-bricked/cemented in? Does anyone have experience taking one out or even just replacing the triangle shaped burner cone pieces? It looks like the perimeter vertical fire brick needs to come out first but I can't budge any of them. Is this a destroy the brick to get them out job? Any help would be appreciated, winter will be here very soon.
Teddy

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McGiever
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Post By: McGiever » Thu. Oct. 27, 2016 9:23 am

Membrr *Willis* may be your guy...and he hasn't been here since March.
You may try to send him a PM and see if he'll respond.

He's not the only one, but first that came to mind. :)

Teddy
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Post By: Teddy » Thu. Oct. 27, 2016 9:56 am

Thank you McClever. This forum is great, it is because of this forum I learned about Combustioneer and located one to buy. I should have titled the discusion "Combustioneer 77B Burner Removal" Teddy

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lsayre
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Post By: lsayre » Thu. Oct. 27, 2016 10:32 am

Did Will-Burt make the stoker and/or the controls for this boiler? I recently discovered that the company is still around and is only about 17 miles due south of me. Though it appears that they no longer have any involvement with stokers or their controls, they may be able to direct you to sources for parts, etc...

http://www.willburt.com/about/history/history-of-will-burt/


Teddy
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Stoker Coal Boiler: building coal burning boiler
Coal Size/Type: stoker 2"/bituminous

Post By: Teddy » Thu. Oct. 27, 2016 11:05 am

Yes they did. When I am done with this project, I will have the Wil-Burt controls, fan, gearbox, etc available for sale since I am programming a PLC to run the boiler. I am just using the Burner and auger out of the Combustioneer. I just don't want to break any of the burner "leaves" as I take it out. I have to cut out the worm tube with a torch. Looking for advice of how to get it out. Teddy

Teddy
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Stoker Coal Boiler: building coal burning boiler
Coal Size/Type: stoker 2"/bituminous

Post By: Teddy » Thu. Oct. 27, 2016 2:41 pm

McGlever, I can't find a "WIllis" listed under the members. How do I send him a PM?

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SWPaDon
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Post By: SWPaDon » Thu. Oct. 27, 2016 3:00 pm

Teddy wrote:McGlever, I can't find a "WIllis" listed under the members. How do I send him a PM?
Willis

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coaledsweat
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Post By: coaledsweat » Fri. Oct. 28, 2016 9:57 am

It may be better to send him an Email, he hasn't logged in since March. Click on his name to get his profile and select send Willis an Email.


Teddy
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Stoker Coal Boiler: building coal burning boiler
Coal Size/Type: stoker 2"/bituminous

Post By: Teddy » Fri. Oct. 28, 2016 10:56 am

Thanks guys. I am hoping someone out there has taken this burner out or replaced parts of it and can help me.

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carlherrnstein
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Post By: carlherrnstein » Fri. Oct. 28, 2016 9:50 pm

You have to smash the bottom of the hearth to get the tuyeres out and there will be hose clamp around them.
Will burt sold the rights to there stokers these guys http://www.jonmargear.com/coal-and-wood-stokers/ I have to ask why would you be selling the gearbox?

Teddy
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Stoker Coal Boiler: building coal burning boiler
Coal Size/Type: stoker 2"/bituminous

Post By: Teddy » Mon. Oct. 31, 2016 9:49 pm

Thanks for the info. I was afraid I would have to bust the fire brick around the wall first, then pry out the bottom hearth as it looks like the sidewall brick is on top of the hearth? So bust it with a hammer and chisel? I won't need the gearbox because I am going to operate the auger with a ratchet wrench and an air cylinder. I just have to change the strokes/minute of the air cylinder with the PLC to go from high fire to low fire.

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carlherrnstein
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Post By: carlherrnstein » Wed. Nov. 02, 2016 6:59 pm

Ratchet wrench? Air cylinder??????? :flush: You might want to hang on to the gearbox till you get that all working...... correctly. As a machinist, I have found that the more pieces a machine has the less reliable it is.

The "fire brick" in the bottom of the hearth is actually castable refractory cement. Check your inbox I will try to sent you a manual for this heater. I used a air chisel, as you know there ain't enough room in there to swing a hammer.

Teddy
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Posts: 36
Joined: Tue. Aug. 18, 2015 5:34 pm
Stoker Coal Boiler: building coal burning boiler
Coal Size/Type: stoker 2"/bituminous

Post By: Teddy » Fri. Feb. 03, 2017 3:41 pm

carlherrnstein, thanks for your help, I sent you a private message, but it didn't need to be. If we post here, then we might get some more input. the message I sent said - I finally liberated the burner, auger and auger tube from the Combustioneer. I tried air chiseling out the refractory around the tuyeres as you suggested, but was not very successful. So I took my plasma cutter and torched the whole thing out from the bottom, auger tube and all. I found an interesting thing - the auger tube has two slots cut in it on the top near to where it enters the retort. These slots allow air from the pressurized air box to enter the retort with the coal. They look like an afterthought because the retort casting itself has a good sized hole cast in it that looks like it was designed to get air to the retort with the coal, but the auger tube covers up this retort hole on the inside. Do you or anyone else know what I am referring to? I am trying to design my replacement air box/retort holder and would like to know if I should allow the air to go through the hole in the retort casting by cutting back the auger tube near it's end, or keep it shut off and cut slots in the top of my new auger tube. Also, do you see any advantage/disadvantage to making the auger tube out of stainless? It should last longer, right? I can't believe after 3 years thinking about this project I am finally actually starting to cut metal!!!

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