Iron Fireman for Ky Coal?

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rockwood
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Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Stokermatic coal furnace
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Location: Utah

Post Tue. Jan. 08, 2013 8:22 pm

If you attempt to add some type of rotating ring function to this stoker, the ring would need to be able to withstand very high temperatures. Depending on the coal, clinkers form in the 2000+ degree range and this ring will be exposed to these high temperatures. I've never worked on one of these rotating stokers but from photos and videos I've seen, the ring looks to be cast iron and heavy duty.

If you do get this stoker, look at the retort (firepot) and you'll see how heavy duty these parts of the stoker need to be.

Not trying to dissuade you from doing this but I do think it will be quite challenging to get it to function, especially long term. If it didn't work out, you can set it up the traditional way as Greg suggested ;)
LsFarm wrote:make a flat refractory area around the firepot
for the ash to collect on and get melted to clinkers for easy removal.


deerefanatic
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Post Tue. Jan. 08, 2013 9:27 pm

OK. I think I'll just fight the urge to buck the proven way and do it the proven way. :)

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Berlin
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Post Wed. Jan. 09, 2013 12:02 am

A clinkering type stoker is able to use and burn very efficiently just about any quality and type of coal (even anthracite). A stoker with a rotating pot that produces loose ash is very picky about the type of coal it burns. Clinker removal is extremely easy and quick - in some ways less hassle than removing an ashpan full of light ash. A clinkering type stoker also produces a much lower volume of ash due to the melting down and concentrating of ash as clinker.

deerefanatic
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Post Sat. Jan. 12, 2013 7:42 am

I'm about 75 miles out from the location where the stoker resides..... I'm gettin excited.

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LsFarm
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Post Sat. Jan. 12, 2013 5:02 pm

OK !! Can't wait for some more photos.

Greg L

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Post Sat. Jan. 12, 2013 8:28 pm

Almost home with it.

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LsFarm
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Post Sun. Jan. 13, 2013 12:58 pm

We are anxiously waiting to see the 'before' photos of your 'new' stoker !! :lol:

Greg L

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Post Mon. Jan. 14, 2013 7:08 pm

Well, here they are.....
Attachments
2013-01-12_09-51-52_620.jpg
In the truck
2013-01-12_09-51-58_795.jpg
2013-01-13_09-54-15_221.jpg


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rockwood
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Location: Utah

Post Mon. Jan. 14, 2013 9:28 pm

That unit looks to be in great shape :)

deerefanatic
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Post Mon. Jan. 14, 2013 9:39 pm

It is. I fired it up today and let it auger out all the old "gravel" of wet fines and chunks that were in the bottom of the hopper....... That crap was packed into a crusty layer 4" thick on the bottom of the hopper that I chiseled away at. Still some to go to get it all cleaned out. Threw the stuff in the wood burner with my wood. :P Thought about hitting it with some paint, but prolly won't stick to that rusty metal, and I don't feel like tearing it all apart right now to wire brush it.

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Berlin
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Post Tue. Jan. 15, 2013 12:22 am

be sure to pull the output shaft seal and replace it. Put good heavy gear oil in it and add a tube or two of this: http://www.amazon.com/Lubro-Moly-2019-Gear-Treatm ... B007XB42C6

if the shaft seal ever lets go and the transmission fills with moisture and coal fines, the mos2 will be the only thing that saves it.

deerefanatic
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Post Tue. Jan. 15, 2013 8:40 am

Thanks berlin. Didn't know that. I'll get right to that.

deerefanatic
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Post Tue. Jan. 15, 2013 4:18 pm

What do you guys think of this design for a boiler? The dimensions shown are firebox dimensions for the upper diagram, and the base dimensions for the base.... The Baffles shown in the firebox are wet baffles....
Attachments
plans6.jpg

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Berlin
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Post Tue. Jan. 15, 2013 6:30 pm

looks decent. make the base wide enough that you can accommodate the width of the firebrick on all sides and still maintain at least 8" around the tuyeres on the hearth as free of obstruction.

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Sting
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Post Tue. Jan. 15, 2013 6:38 pm

I would build a fire tube boiler --- But only after giving up finding one in usable condition

hummmmm

Where is that drawing board


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