New problems..

 
User avatar
CoalisCoolxWarm
Member
Posts: 1908
Joined: Wed. Jan. 19, 2011 11:41 am
Location: Western PA
Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KA-6
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: old Sears rebuilt, bituminous- offline as of winter 2014
Coal Size/Type: Anthracite Buckwheat
Other Heating: Oil Boiler

Post by CoalisCoolxWarm » Thu. Oct. 29, 2020 12:08 pm

Tip on the auger getting jammed: There are auto-reverse circuits out there that could be added. So if the motor overload trips, it would also signal the next cycle to be a timed reverse (ie 3-5 secs running in reverse), which is used to clear jammed drives.

I don't know if that is a reversible motor, which is the other requirement.

Personally, I'd probably increase size of motor so it is large enough to clear the clog. Be sure you have an accessible shear pin ;)

 
User avatar
carlherrnstein
Member
Posts: 1257
Joined: Tue. Feb. 07, 2012 8:49 am
Location: Clarksburg, ohio
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: combustioneer model 77B
Coal Size/Type: pea stoker/Ohio bituminous

Post by carlherrnstein » Thu. Oct. 29, 2020 2:08 pm

The clinkers are melted ash from the coal. There's not really anything you can do about it aside from get coal that has either a higher AFT (ash fusion temperature) or a lower ash content. Both of those specs would require a lab analysis and you are unlikely to get it unless you can get coal that is destined for a power plant or a coke plant for use in a blast furnace. Normal ash content could range from 15% to 25% by weight so depending on how much coal you burn in a day that is not unreasonable, when it's in the teens outside I burn about 2 5 gal buckets of coal a day and have to take out clinkers twice a day.

That motor won't last long. I've never seen a motor become locked like that, it may have some dead windings that didn't short and trip the breaker.

You might want to get another electric motor. Got any motor repair shops in your area the one I use often has a selection of different motors for sale, people forget to or don't pick them up

 
epidioxte
New Member
Posts: 14
Joined: Sat. Jan. 25, 2020 1:36 pm
Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Stokermatic Mountainman 85

Post by epidioxte » Tue. Nov. 03, 2020 10:13 pm

Thanks so much for the detailed help!

I'm thinking I'll replace the motor while it's still in decent condition before I burn the thing out then. Both for safety and for keeping a working motor around for other uses.

The one I currently have is a 1/4 HP. Would 1/2 HP usually be enough for this sort of a stoker or should I play it safe and go even bigger?

I also loved the suggestion of having a motor that is able to reverse, is there a name for that so I can search around for such a thing?

 
User avatar
carlherrnstein
Member
Posts: 1257
Joined: Tue. Feb. 07, 2012 8:49 am
Location: Clarksburg, ohio
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: combustioneer model 77B
Coal Size/Type: pea stoker/Ohio bituminous

Post by carlherrnstein » Wed. Nov. 04, 2020 6:28 pm

The motor on my stoker is 1/4hp it's enough. I think your motor has something wrong with it but, is powerful enough.

I have a 1/2hp motor running a regenerative blower (centrifugal air pump) the bearings went out on it and it could run but, sounded like hell and couldn't self start.

A motor that can run both ways is "reversible" it is done by switching wires around either by using a drum switch or by physically changing wires.

I recommend a industrial duty motor they are generally higher quality. Baldor, Dayton and GE are a few good name brands.


 
User avatar
McGiever
Member
Posts: 9114
Joined: Sun. May. 02, 2010 11:26 pm
Location: Junction of PA-OH-WV
Stoker Coal Boiler: AXEMAN-ANDERSON 130 "1959"
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: BUCKET A DAY water heater
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 414A
Coal Size/Type: RICE,PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE and EGG / BIT
Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump and some Solar

Post by McGiever » Wed. Nov. 04, 2020 10:21 pm

Some small motors, like the 1/4hp, have built in "start" and "run" windings. Now the motor would start by default in the start winding position and there upon reaching a calculated speed then would centrifugally switch to the "run winding" for the long haul.

If centrifugal switch goes haywire it could be a "stuck switch" which will not gain the advantage of the 2 different winding to get motor ultimately up to full speed.

With that buzzing noise, in this case, I would guess it was stuck in the "run winding" and therefore bypassing the "start" altogether...can't run without a start first.

 
epidioxte
New Member
Posts: 14
Joined: Sat. Jan. 25, 2020 1:36 pm
Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Stokermatic Mountainman 85

Post by epidioxte » Thu. Nov. 05, 2020 10:33 pm

Thought I'd double check before making a purchase. There seems to be different kinds of motors and all my google researching just gets me more and more confused... Here are the three I've been considering:

Dayton #3K771
https://www.zoro.com/dayton-14-hp-motor-split-pha ... lsrc=aw.ds

Century (AOSmith) 1/3 HP


Dayton #6K589BG


Thanks again for all the help.

 
User avatar
McGiever
Member
Posts: 9114
Joined: Sun. May. 02, 2010 11:26 pm
Location: Junction of PA-OH-WV
Stoker Coal Boiler: AXEMAN-ANDERSON 130 "1959"
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: BUCKET A DAY water heater
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 414A
Coal Size/Type: RICE,PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE and EGG / BIT
Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump and some Solar

Post by McGiever » Thu. Nov. 05, 2020 11:05 pm

up to you to confirm if physical size will fit/work as well that motor's shaft is correct diameter and length...

marathon-motors-farm-duty-motor

Description
Agricultural Fan Motor, Split-Phase, 1/4 HP, Nameplate RPM 1725, Voltage 115, 1 Phase, Frame 48Z, Totally Enclosed Air-Over, Full Load Amps 5.1, 60 Hz, Cradle Base Motor Mounting Type, Motor Thermal Protection Auto, Ins. Class B, Motor Service Factor 1.0, Ball Motor Bearings, Max. Ambient Temperature 40 Degrees C, CW/CCW Motor Shaft Rotation, Overall Length 9 11/16 in, Shaft Dia. 1/2 in, Shaft Length 2 1/4 in, Motor Frame Material Rolled Steel

 
User avatar
carlherrnstein
Member
Posts: 1257
Joined: Tue. Feb. 07, 2012 8:49 am
Location: Clarksburg, ohio
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: combustioneer model 77B
Coal Size/Type: pea stoker/Ohio bituminous

Post by carlherrnstein » Fri. Nov. 06, 2020 11:07 pm

Look at the specs on your motors tag. You will need to know the NEMA frame number of your motor. Going by the frame number takes most of the guesswork out of replacing a motor, stuff like mounting bracket hole patterns, shaft sizes, overall size an other stuff that can kick you in the balls. I think your motor is a NEMA 48, check out motors that have a NEMA 48 frame and double check the rest of the specs.


 
User avatar
McGiever
Member
Posts: 9114
Joined: Sun. May. 02, 2010 11:26 pm
Location: Junction of PA-OH-WV
Stoker Coal Boiler: AXEMAN-ANDERSON 130 "1959"
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: BUCKET A DAY water heater
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 414A
Coal Size/Type: RICE,PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE and EGG / BIT
Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump and some Solar

Post by McGiever » Sat. Nov. 07, 2020 9:17 am

Thought I saw 48Z on his tag...that's why I added that link... ;)

 
epidioxte
New Member
Posts: 14
Joined: Sat. Jan. 25, 2020 1:36 pm
Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Stokermatic Mountainman 85

Post by epidioxte » Wed. Nov. 18, 2020 11:32 pm

Got the new motor in and it's working like a charm!

So much quieter too!!! I'm not sure why the motor would affect this, but the coal seems to be burning better as well!

Thank you so much everyone!

I'm getting weird black dust all over the motor chamber (it was there before too and I'd clean it almost daily)... I'm thinking the belt might be old and is grinding up? Is that a possibility. It's enough that it blankets the motor daily... I can't imagine all that debris would be good for the motor and blower.

 
User avatar
McGiever
Member
Posts: 9114
Joined: Sun. May. 02, 2010 11:26 pm
Location: Junction of PA-OH-WV
Stoker Coal Boiler: AXEMAN-ANDERSON 130 "1959"
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: BUCKET A DAY water heater
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 414A
Coal Size/Type: RICE,PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE and EGG / BIT
Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump and some Solar

Post by McGiever » Thu. Nov. 19, 2020 10:01 am

Can’t know what for sure that black dust is.... but you might fashion a shield to keep it off the motor to prevent potential damage.

 
User avatar
carlherrnstein
Member
Posts: 1257
Joined: Tue. Feb. 07, 2012 8:49 am
Location: Clarksburg, ohio
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: combustioneer model 77B
Coal Size/Type: pea stoker/Ohio bituminous

Post by carlherrnstein » Thu. Nov. 19, 2020 11:53 am

My stoker has a gasket between the gearbox and the auger tube flange. If you don't get that to seal then coal dust leaks out.

Post Reply

Return to “Coal Stoker Boilers & Hot Air Furnaces/Stoves Using Bituminous”