Franco Belge 10.1375 Newbie Questions

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live4outdoors
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Post by live4outdoors » Tue. Feb. 03, 2009 4:48 pm

I just recieved a used Franco Belge 10.1375 that my father-in-law purchased for us and I have no idea where to start and hes not familar with these stoves. I would love to find a place with a manual or any information on the stove. Also have heard numerous opinions on the vent pipe to the chimney, some say draft damper like a wood stove another says never with coal you don't use anything and then I read alot in here about Baro Dampers. The older man that it was purchased from recommended alum foil over the glass to preserve it during startup and not to move the control knob more than 2-3 but it goes up to 8 with factory marks around the number 4. love the stove its like brand new but as you can probably read any help would be wonderful and would be willing to pay for anyones copied or scanned manuals, would hate to do something to damage the stove. Thank You


 
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Post by WNY » Tue. Feb. 03, 2009 5:43 pm

Search on FRANCO BELGE on here, a few topics on the stove.

Here one topic.
Advice on Franco Belge 10.1475

Franco-Belge Disassembly

 
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Post by live4outdoors » Thu. Feb. 05, 2009 11:59 am

Thank you for that link I learned alot reading through the 3 pages about my stove and the fact I need a baro damper, does it matter how high or low I place the baro or can I simply have it anywhere in the pipe to my chimney crock? This is a great forum with great info and people!

Thanks Brian

 
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Post by Ham_Gravy » Fri. Nov. 27, 2009 3:27 pm

I have recently acquired a Franco Belge 10.1375, and I am hoping someone here has a manual for it. I did get an exhaustive tutoring on how to operate the stove, and I did see it in operation, so between that and the excellent information I've already found on this site, I should be okay. (but it can't hurt to read the instructions :))

 
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Post by WNY » Fri. Nov. 27, 2009 4:47 pm

Baro can be placed anywhere in the pipe between the stove and the chimney hook up. Normally in the vertical position, not less then 18" from the stove...but all depends on your piping. (check http://www.fieldcontrols.com for the RC baro damper and literature).

 
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Post by Ham_Gravy » Fri. Nov. 27, 2009 5:06 pm

I am going to install a Fields RC baro damper when I set up the Franco Belge. I notice that they advise against installing it in a bullhead tee ( http://www.fieldcontrols.com/draftcontrol.php#rc ) and I wonder why, since that would otherwise be my inclination.

 
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Post by franco b » Fri. Nov. 27, 2009 5:11 pm

Ham_Gravy wrote:I have recently acquired a Franco Belge 10.1375, and I am hoping someone here has a manual for it. I did get an exhaustive tutoring on how to operate the stove, and I did see it in operation, so between that and the excellent information I've already found on this site, I should be okay. (but it can't hurt to read the instructions :))


Here is the manual. Mainly place the hopper in the highest position. You can go 12 hours or more between shakes at the low settings (about 23 pounds per day) and 8 hours at the higher outputs.

Richard

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Post by Ham_Gravy » Fri. Nov. 27, 2009 5:37 pm

Thank you very much for the manual. It seems to correlate with much of what I was shown with the stove, with the exception of the barometric damper. (the seller was kind of 'old school' and had a manual damper in the stack) ~ I am curious about the lower settings for the hopper. Is a lower setting for another size of coal, or maybe for a lesser amount of heat being produced?

 
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Post by franco b » Fri. Nov. 27, 2009 5:55 pm

Ham_Gravy wrote:Thank you very much for the manual. It seems to correlate with much of what I was shown with the stove, with the exception of the barometric damper. (the seller was kind of 'old school' and had a manual damper in the stack) ~ I am curious about the lower settings for the hopper. Is a lower setting for another size of coal, or maybe for a lesser amount of heat being produced?
I have no idea why they have different height settings for the hopper, perhaps for some types of European coal. Our coal needs a deep bed and raising the hopper is the only way to accomplish this for a longer burn time.

The barometric damper or any damper is optional in my opinion (though nice to have) for these stoves as the air supply is controlled by the thermostat setting and will self adjust to varying draft conditions. The ashpan door should seal well and be sure to put the shaker handles in the closed position after shaking as this could lead to air getting to the fire and firing hotter than the setting.

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Post by Ham_Gravy » Fri. Nov. 27, 2009 6:07 pm

I guess the barometric damper might be more of a safety device, since their description makes it look like they prevent runaway conditions. I note the manual mentions "asbestos millboard" as a floor protector. I would be looking to use 1/2-inch Durock cement board in its place.

 
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Post by franco b » Fri. Nov. 27, 2009 6:28 pm

Ham_Gravy wrote:I guess the barometric damper might be more of a safety device, since their description makes it look like they prevent runaway conditions. I note the manual mentions "asbestos millboard" as a floor protector. I would be looking to use 1/2-inch Durock cement board in its place.
Yes it is a safety device in stoves that are not airtight or have a manual air setting, since the amount of air getting to the fire will vary with the draft. On many antique stoves they had a manual door in the flue outlet called a checkdraft which you could open to lower the draft, but having opened it in high draft conditions it could be lethal when the draft dropped by allowing carbon monoxide gas to enter the room. The barometric damper will automatically close under those conditions.

I think your floor protector is adequate as these stoves have a cool bottom and the later ones even have a sheet metal heat shield on the bottom as well. Your local codes however, might call for more because wood stoves in general run much hotter on the bottom and that is what the codes are written for. The area in front of the stove will be warmer than directly underneath because it receives radiation from the glass door, so leave at least 18 inches or more in front of the stove.

Richard

 
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Post by Perky » Fri. Nov. 27, 2009 6:35 pm

Ham_Gravy
Got your PM and sent a bunch of info to you.
Franco B is right on with his advice.....although I have to disagree on the baro draft. :)

 
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Post by Ham_Gravy » Fri. Nov. 27, 2009 6:50 pm

The seller didn't have the heat shield installed, but I got it with the stove. He had the legs sitting on half-height cement blocks, so he wouldn't have to bend so much to empty ashes.

The manual mentions "black or blued steel" chimney connector, which sounds different than the usual smoke elbow. I have some thoughts about maybe using all black smoke pipe, which would look better than the usual stuff, if I can refinish the nearby walls with some brick veneer.
------------------------------------
Thank you for replying, Perky. I was a bit reluctant to post a repeat of the usual newbie messages. I figure a baro damper is just due diligence, even if it never has anything to do under normal circumstances.

 
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Post by Perky » Sun. Nov. 29, 2009 4:39 pm

Live-4-outdoors and Ham_gravy, how are you making out with your new stoves :?:

 
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Post by live4outdoors » Sun. Feb. 14, 2010 10:08 am

I absolutely love the stove, it works like a champ, heats the house for 2 ton a year and I owe it all to this board and a few outstanding members to get me up and going!


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