I Have Been Given a Chappee Stove!
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- New Member
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Hi, all, I am new here and am asking if I should install a 1980's Chappee coal solid fuel stove model 8033-800. It apears to be in good shape but has been in the cellar since my firend moved into her home 14 yrs ago. Would you install or refuse the offer and look for a new stove for a new installation. I currently have a gas stove and want a less expensive option. Mimi
- Blackdiamonddoug
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- Joined: Wed. Jun. 11, 2008 8:52 am
- Location: haverhill Ma
install it sound like a diamond in the rough
singsandsews, If the stove is in working condition and free I would give it a shot. If you don't like it, you really won't have much invested. If you do then your all set and may even think about upgrading to a new or bigger stove in the future. If nothing else it should put a dent in your heating cost whether your using oil, gas, or propane.
Jeff
Jeff
- LsFarm
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- Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260
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Free is a pretty good 'price'.. I'd give it a try. It may work really well for you.
I'm moving this to the hand fired forum..for better exposure to the hand-fired crowd.
Greg L
I'm moving this to the hand fired forum..for better exposure to the hand-fired crowd.
Greg L
- coalvet
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- Location: Rhode Island
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Crane Model 404, Harman MK I
- Coal Size/Type: Nut
- Other Heating: NG Boiler
Hello, I have a Chappee installed in by basement family room. It burns wood as well a coal equally well. If you burn coal you'll find it is quite a heat producer. I found that you must shake the grates vigorously because there is limited movement while shaking, other than that it's a great little stove. Also check both door gaskets and replace them if needed. I usually only fire it up with coal when the temps get really low outside. My Crane Coal Cooker is my primary stove on the main floor of my house.
Good luck!
Good luck!
- Eric L
- Member
- Posts: 31
- Joined: Tue. Nov. 04, 2008 4:33 pm
- Location: Sunny Maine
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Chappee 8033
- Coal Size/Type: Nut Antracite
No No No. Don't use the nasty old thing.
Just let me know where it is, and I'll drop by there and pick it right up to protect everyone from it.
But seriously -
I have the same stove.
It is an excellent unit. We used it for a number of years during the last "energy crisis" (got it around 1978), when we had access to free coal (long story).
I recently dragged it out of my father's basement and set it up in our house, and in spite of its having been frequently overfired and massively abused over the years, it still works great.
If you were ever interested in parting with it, I would be happy to strike a deal with you.
I have the original owner's manual (in French and English) and parts list, and would be happy to upload them or otherwise convey copies to you.
Important details about this stove:
It is very small, but puts out a lot more heat than you expect.
It will burn any kind of coal large enough to stay above the grate.
If you don't keep the shiny enameled surface scrupulously clean with baking soda while cold, you will never get it clean again.
It can be a bear to shake.
It should come with a neat little multi-use key that looks like a giant "jack" (like the ones you dropped and picked up as a kid) or can opener.
The back can be removed to clean the fly ash from the reburn chamber.
The asbestos or fiberglas rope that seals the doors MUST be in good shape, or it will burn poorly and leak heat, destroying the finish. Similarly, the door latches must be adjusted for a good seal.
The little reburn lever on the right side is forward to open the door or start a fire, backward once warmed up.
According to the manual the highest setting of the air vent for continuous running (after warm-up) is 3 out of 10. DO NOT set it to 10 and leave for a few hours. This would be bad.
Also,if you or anybody else knows of a source of spare parts, please let me know - I need a few things.
Enjoy the warmth.
ps: yes, I'm new to the group. Hello.
Just let me know where it is, and I'll drop by there and pick it right up to protect everyone from it.
But seriously -
I have the same stove.
It is an excellent unit. We used it for a number of years during the last "energy crisis" (got it around 1978), when we had access to free coal (long story).
I recently dragged it out of my father's basement and set it up in our house, and in spite of its having been frequently overfired and massively abused over the years, it still works great.
If you were ever interested in parting with it, I would be happy to strike a deal with you.
I have the original owner's manual (in French and English) and parts list, and would be happy to upload them or otherwise convey copies to you.
Important details about this stove:
It is very small, but puts out a lot more heat than you expect.
It will burn any kind of coal large enough to stay above the grate.
If you don't keep the shiny enameled surface scrupulously clean with baking soda while cold, you will never get it clean again.
It can be a bear to shake.
It should come with a neat little multi-use key that looks like a giant "jack" (like the ones you dropped and picked up as a kid) or can opener.
The back can be removed to clean the fly ash from the reburn chamber.
The asbestos or fiberglas rope that seals the doors MUST be in good shape, or it will burn poorly and leak heat, destroying the finish. Similarly, the door latches must be adjusted for a good seal.
The little reburn lever on the right side is forward to open the door or start a fire, backward once warmed up.
According to the manual the highest setting of the air vent for continuous running (after warm-up) is 3 out of 10. DO NOT set it to 10 and leave for a few hours. This would be bad.
Also,if you or anybody else knows of a source of spare parts, please let me know - I need a few things.
Enjoy the warmth.
ps: yes, I'm new to the group. Hello.
Hi Eric L!
My name is Conrad. I saw a post of your regarding a Chappee stove that you wrote here in October 2008.
In the post, you offered to upload a copy of your owners manual to a fellow poster.
I just acquired a Chappee and don't know the manufacturers recommendations of set up clearances. Perhaps that is covered in the manual you have.
Would it be possible for you to email me a .pdf or some .jpg files of the manual?
It would be very helpful and greatly appreciated as winter is approaching here in Connecticut!
I can be e mailed at [email protected]
Thanks!
My name is Conrad. I saw a post of your regarding a Chappee stove that you wrote here in October 2008.
In the post, you offered to upload a copy of your owners manual to a fellow poster.
I just acquired a Chappee and don't know the manufacturers recommendations of set up clearances. Perhaps that is covered in the manual you have.
Would it be possible for you to email me a .pdf or some .jpg files of the manual?
It would be very helpful and greatly appreciated as winter is approaching here in Connecticut!
I can be e mailed at [email protected]
Thanks!
- Freddy
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Radcon.... I'll take a guess that Eric L will not answer.... he has not posted in over a year. Maybe he's lurking and will see it, but probably he is not a regular member. Perhaps post your question to the general public in a new post?
Welcome to the forum!
Welcome to the forum!
- Eric L
- Member
- Posts: 31
- Joined: Tue. Nov. 04, 2008 4:33 pm
- Location: Sunny Maine
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Chappee 8033
- Coal Size/Type: Nut Antracite
Ummm... Hi all.
Looks like this forum does not default to e-mail notification if a new post is posted.
I happened across this thread through a Google search, and I am sorry that I did not respond to RadCon exactly 2 years ago.
If anyone is interested, I will dig out my Chappee information, scan it and post it.
I hate when my own posts go unanswered, and so I feel embarrassed that I missed this question.
- Eric
Looks like this forum does not default to e-mail notification if a new post is posted.
I happened across this thread through a Google search, and I am sorry that I did not respond to RadCon exactly 2 years ago.
If anyone is interested, I will dig out my Chappee information, scan it and post it.
I hate when my own posts go unanswered, and so I feel embarrassed that I missed this question.
- Eric
- lowfog01
- Member
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- Joined: Sat. Dec. 20, 2008 8:33 am
- Location: Springfield, VA
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Mark II & Mark I
- Coal Size/Type: nut/pea
Welcome to the Forum - heck yes, I'd install the stove - the price is right and you will love the heat. Take Eric L up on the offer of a copy of the manual and go for it. Even if it doesn't completely heat your house, the stove will reduce your heating bill. At that great price how could you go wrong? Your first challenge will be getting it out of the basement and into your house. Check out the "how did you get your stove into your house" post using the search bar in the upper right hand corner. There are some really helpful ideas in that post. Good luck, Lisasingsandsews wrote: Would you install or refuse the offer and look for a new stove for a new installation. I currently have a gas stove and want a less expensive option. Mimi
- Eric L
- Member
- Posts: 31
- Joined: Tue. Nov. 04, 2008 4:33 pm
- Location: Sunny Maine
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Chappee 8033
- Coal Size/Type: Nut Antracite
Here is a .pdf file of the Chappee 8033 and 8008 information that I have.
I have also posted a single .jpg of the first page, so you can see what you're getting.
I would say that the most important piece of information in the entire file is the fact that you are not supposed to ever set the air slider any higher than 3/10 under almost all circumstances.
Sorry for the delay (ahem) in posting.
- Eric
I have also posted a single .jpg of the first page, so you can see what you're getting.
I would say that the most important piece of information in the entire file is the fact that you are not supposed to ever set the air slider any higher than 3/10 under almost all circumstances.
Sorry for the delay (ahem) in posting.
- Eric
- Eric L
- Member
- Posts: 31
- Joined: Tue. Nov. 04, 2008 4:33 pm
- Location: Sunny Maine
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Chappee 8033
- Coal Size/Type: Nut Antracite
I may be the resident expert in this exact stove, as I now have four of them.
On the basis of additional experience, I just wanted to round out the information I had already posted here.
1. The first two stoves of this series that I got are essentially junk, but I did not fully understand this until I got the third about a month ago.
This is important to the person who may be looking to buy one.
The "ceiling" of the firebox on these is cast iron, and if it gets red hot for long enough, it will sag.
If it sags, then the baffles between the "ceiling" and the top of the stove, which direct recirculated smoke, will fall out, and the stove will not recirculate, and will throw a lot of heat away up the chimney.
The "ceiling" is supposed to be flat on the sides, with a very slight curve or bow to the center panel. It should not in any way be gracefully curved or bowed down on the sides. If it is, it has been overfired. Lots of them look like this, so it is easy to see a couple and think that's the way they're supposed to be.
A telltale sign of damage to the baffles is glaze chipping off in the center of the narrow panel just above the door. I used to think this had happened because we ran it with a bad gasket, but I was wrong. If the top is sagging, and the baffles aren't working, very hot smoke will be directed against the back of this panel and wreck the glaze. This is usually easy to see on CL and eBay photos.
2. With a 45' tall, 9x12" flue, brick chimney with a helluva draft, and using a standard hardware store hand-adjusted damper in the pipe, in its "closed" position while running, I run this stove at between 6 and 7 on the 0-10 draft slider, to get door temps of 500° to 650° with a Rutland magnetic thermometer (the IR thermometer is all over the place, from one spot to another when checking temps, so it's easier to read the Rutland for repeatable numbers). In this range, I run the firebrick red hot where the fire's touching it, but the the "ceiling" doesn't glow.
So, regardless of what the instructions say, I think running with the draft around 3 is too low. 10 = "blast furnace," though, so DO be careful.
3. There are two different grate configurations for this stove, which cannot be interchanged.
All of mine seem to be 8033s, but I wonder whether my "different" one is actually an 8032.
(The four stoves, in order:
1 - from family that we had heated a 2,600 sqft ranch with,
2 - $125 - bought from a church basement - it had been donated for a sale years before,
3 - $150 - bought from a guy who had demo'd it out of a house, and
4 - $225 - bought from a guy who'd been given it 20 years before, and had it sitting in his basement)
The first three of these stoves that I got all had a grate with a central round portion that rotates when you pull out and push in a "key"-looking fitting on the right side of the stove near the bottom. This grate does not shake as thoroughly as one would wish, and I was frequently poking up through the non-moving areas to clear ash. I think you could get away with just shaking the way it was designed, though, if you were very thorough.
The fourth stove has an entirely different grate arrangement, consisting of two separate, independent grates, one left and one right, each with its own roughly 6" long lever on its respective side. The grates shake backward and forward and are much more effective at dropping ash, especially since the entire grate surface moves, and not just the middle, as in the other type. The one disadvantage of this type is that while the round-grate model is messy, this one is messier - the grates will always spit some ash out the front, and will also push some behind the pan, which has to be shoveled out.
It took me several years to learn this information, and I hope it proves helpful to someone.
- Eric
On the basis of additional experience, I just wanted to round out the information I had already posted here.
1. The first two stoves of this series that I got are essentially junk, but I did not fully understand this until I got the third about a month ago.
This is important to the person who may be looking to buy one.
The "ceiling" of the firebox on these is cast iron, and if it gets red hot for long enough, it will sag.
If it sags, then the baffles between the "ceiling" and the top of the stove, which direct recirculated smoke, will fall out, and the stove will not recirculate, and will throw a lot of heat away up the chimney.
The "ceiling" is supposed to be flat on the sides, with a very slight curve or bow to the center panel. It should not in any way be gracefully curved or bowed down on the sides. If it is, it has been overfired. Lots of them look like this, so it is easy to see a couple and think that's the way they're supposed to be.
A telltale sign of damage to the baffles is glaze chipping off in the center of the narrow panel just above the door. I used to think this had happened because we ran it with a bad gasket, but I was wrong. If the top is sagging, and the baffles aren't working, very hot smoke will be directed against the back of this panel and wreck the glaze. This is usually easy to see on CL and eBay photos.
2. With a 45' tall, 9x12" flue, brick chimney with a helluva draft, and using a standard hardware store hand-adjusted damper in the pipe, in its "closed" position while running, I run this stove at between 6 and 7 on the 0-10 draft slider, to get door temps of 500° to 650° with a Rutland magnetic thermometer (the IR thermometer is all over the place, from one spot to another when checking temps, so it's easier to read the Rutland for repeatable numbers). In this range, I run the firebrick red hot where the fire's touching it, but the the "ceiling" doesn't glow.
So, regardless of what the instructions say, I think running with the draft around 3 is too low. 10 = "blast furnace," though, so DO be careful.
3. There are two different grate configurations for this stove, which cannot be interchanged.
All of mine seem to be 8033s, but I wonder whether my "different" one is actually an 8032.
(The four stoves, in order:
1 - from family that we had heated a 2,600 sqft ranch with,
2 - $125 - bought from a church basement - it had been donated for a sale years before,
3 - $150 - bought from a guy who had demo'd it out of a house, and
4 - $225 - bought from a guy who'd been given it 20 years before, and had it sitting in his basement)
The first three of these stoves that I got all had a grate with a central round portion that rotates when you pull out and push in a "key"-looking fitting on the right side of the stove near the bottom. This grate does not shake as thoroughly as one would wish, and I was frequently poking up through the non-moving areas to clear ash. I think you could get away with just shaking the way it was designed, though, if you were very thorough.
The fourth stove has an entirely different grate arrangement, consisting of two separate, independent grates, one left and one right, each with its own roughly 6" long lever on its respective side. The grates shake backward and forward and are much more effective at dropping ash, especially since the entire grate surface moves, and not just the middle, as in the other type. The one disadvantage of this type is that while the round-grate model is messy, this one is messier - the grates will always spit some ash out the front, and will also push some behind the pan, which has to be shoveled out.
It took me several years to learn this information, and I hope it proves helpful to someone.
- Eric
- Eric L
- Member
- Posts: 31
- Joined: Tue. Nov. 04, 2008 4:33 pm
- Location: Sunny Maine
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Chappee 8033
- Coal Size/Type: Nut Antracite
Anthracite, though it also happily burned some bituminous that I found in a basement a few years back.V V wrote:Eric, what fuel are you using, I guess coal or coke?
- Eric