Update on Surdiac 720, Glass Door Troubles.
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Hello all again.
I pulled the glass out of the door to see what needed to be replaced , I'm going to need about ten pieces of glass a new gasket and a new door gasket. (It failed the dollar test.) But taking the glass out I can see a bunch of broken screws coming my way.
I broke 1 and 3 were already broke and I have more to get out. these are small screws and they are screwed into cast.
I think drilling would be a big mess , I was thinking that I would get as many out as I can and replace those and use stove cement on the broken ones . would this work? any other ideas ??
On the plus side I have gotten a few screws out.
pics included but its hard to see the screws.
thanks in advance for much needed input.
I pulled the glass out of the door to see what needed to be replaced , I'm going to need about ten pieces of glass a new gasket and a new door gasket. (It failed the dollar test.) But taking the glass out I can see a bunch of broken screws coming my way.
I broke 1 and 3 were already broke and I have more to get out. these are small screws and they are screwed into cast.
I think drilling would be a big mess , I was thinking that I would get as many out as I can and replace those and use stove cement on the broken ones . would this work? any other ideas ??
On the plus side I have gotten a few screws out.
pics included but its hard to see the screws.
thanks in advance for much needed input.
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- Hand Fed Coal Stove: surdiac 720
- Hand Fed Coal Furnace: vogelzang wood/coal furnace.
- Coal Size/Type: pea/ poss. nut
- Other Heating: older than dirt thermopride oil burner. Ashley wood stove
I don't want to drill out the old screws they are so small the drill will venture off into the cast , maybe next to them.
I'd rather not pull the door off but may have to.
I'd rather not pull the door off but may have to.
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You don't need to drill the old screw if it will make further trouble. You can drill new holes in the retainer to act as guide for new holes. I would drill the old.Sopwith wrote:I don't want to drill out the old screws they are so small the drill will venture off into the cast , maybe next to them.
I'd rather not pull the door off but may have to.
The door must come off to work properly, Cast drills and taps very easily. 8x32 screws should be adequate.
Install with anti seize.
- Sunny Boy
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Soaking for several days with a good rust penetrant, such as Liquid Wrench, often gives the penetrant time to work it's way down the threads by capillary action. Add a few more drops to each fastener each day.
After a couple of days of the screws soaking, using a narrow flame torch, heat the screw head until you see the penetrant just start to smoke. Let it cool. This heating/cooling expands the metal helping to break the rust bond, plus the heat helps drive the penetrant down into the threads.
Sometimes you can "shock" the rust bond loose by hitting the screw head. Take a screw driver blade and put it in the screw slot sideways. Then hit the screw driver blade one, or two, sharp raps with a hammer. Don't hit the handle end of the screw driver, it just absorbs the shocks rather than transmits them to the screw.
Sometimes working the screw back and forth by trying to tighten, then loosen, will break the rust bond.
Sometimes you need to do a combination of all of the above to loosen the really stuck ones.
Paul
After a couple of days of the screws soaking, using a narrow flame torch, heat the screw head until you see the penetrant just start to smoke. Let it cool. This heating/cooling expands the metal helping to break the rust bond, plus the heat helps drive the penetrant down into the threads.
Sometimes you can "shock" the rust bond loose by hitting the screw head. Take a screw driver blade and put it in the screw slot sideways. Then hit the screw driver blade one, or two, sharp raps with a hammer. Don't hit the handle end of the screw driver, it just absorbs the shocks rather than transmits them to the screw.
Sometimes working the screw back and forth by trying to tighten, then loosen, will break the rust bond.
Sometimes you need to do a combination of all of the above to loosen the really stuck ones.
Paul
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If you have a welder, then take and weld a nut to the screw head. Have your wrench ready and it will back right out when it's still hot.
- warminmn
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Will it being cast iron cause an issue with the welding? Cracks I mean.Olllotj wrote:If you have a welder, then take and weld a nut to the screw head. Have your wrench ready and it will back right out when it's still hot.
I had all but two screws breakoff with the one that I had. I didn't even try to get them out or mess with them. I scooted over 1/2 inch from each screw, redrilled and tapped for new stainless screws with anti-seize on them. Never had a problem again.
PSSST....It will be so much easier if you take the door off.
PSSST....It will be so much easier if you take the door off.
- warminmn
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Thanks! I'll keep that in mind if I have issues with any cast iron screws in the future.Olllotj wrote:No, just go buy some nuts to weld to the head of the screw. Be careful not to weld the nut to the door!
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franco b wrote:You don't need to drill the old screw if it will make further trouble. You can drill new holes in the retainer to act as guide for new holes. I would drill the old.Sopwith wrote:I don't want to drill out the old screws they are so small the drill will venture off into the cast , maybe next to them.
I'd rather not pull the door off but may have to.
The door must come off to work properly, Cast drills and taps very easily. 8x32 screws should be adequate.
Install with anti seize.
Franco I managed half drilled old screws and half new, approx. but its done . I got one order of glass and gasket in and lined them up with the old glass and ended up ordering more glass. the rest should be in today . I did not take the door off ,( I am use to drilling and tapping free hand ,thirty plus yrs of wrenching.) once the door is done I will install the pipe and seal the flue and see how things go.
And I would like to thank all who responded with tips , this is an extremely helpful site.
I did soak the screws but they just snapped and I liked the welding idea but this stove is in side and my wife would have killed me mig welding in the living room. lol . more pics when the glass is in.
ps 45deg here this morning.
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- ElCamMan515
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As a fellow Surdiac owner, I can't wait to see your stove fired up. Looking at your picture it appears your hopper was cut in the front. Is this correct?
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Good job. Nicely done.
Unless the draft is unusually strong I would not use a barometric damper. Let the thermostat do the controlling.
The ash pan door must seal well.
Unless the draft is unusually strong I would not use a barometric damper. Let the thermostat do the controlling.
The ash pan door must seal well.
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- Posts: 46
- Joined: Sat. Jul. 16, 2016 11:06 am
- Location: NEW HAMPSHIRE
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: surdiac 720
- Hand Fed Coal Furnace: vogelzang wood/coal furnace.
- Coal Size/Type: pea/ poss. nut
- Other Heating: older than dirt thermopride oil burner. Ashley wood stove
I don't believe it was cut , it is chipped a bit on the bottom.ElCamMan515 wrote:As a fellow Surdiac owner, I can't wait to see your stove fired up. Looking at your picture it appears your hopper was cut in the front. Is this correct?