Thank you. I may deplete the wood stock we have first and once the catalytic needs to be replaced, I'll remove it then for coal use. Just need that manual or a "how to operation" still
EFEL Symphony
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Thank you. I may deplete the wood stock we have first and once the catalytic needs to be replaced, I'll remove it then for coal use. Just need that manual or a "how to operation" still
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OK so I am more confused than before. The doors state model 387.64 which I think is a non-catalytic version. BUT the back states it's a Symphony catalytic. Could this be because some of the parts are interchangeable? I'm sorry I'm posting like crazy but this is not a normal thing to me. I like when companies keep their products easily identifiable and keep manuals online for most of their things. To label a stove two ways only makes it harder to determine what it is. I have attached more pics if that can help a bit.
Thank you
Thank you
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- michaelanthony
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Looks like a wood burner, I don't see any movable grates.
- freetown fred
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Nor any under fire box air vents.
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Right above the ash box there is a small "level/tab" that you pull when the front door is open to open the grates below. When you close the front door, this auto closes the grates below. There is a lever above the front door, just below the top porcelain piece that allows you to open vents which circulates around the fire box. The air seemed to have moved through the catalyst and then flows around that fire box and exits through the chimney I think. I tried this last night and got it to light and stay lit for a decent period of time. Started it late and didn't want to just leave it fully stocked the whole time. I have to determine all the little nuances and determine how much I can fully stock it, where to set everything once stocked to prevent over heating and obtain optimal air flow. I shut the air off a little too much at one point and when I tried to slowly allow more air in, the inside mixed at just the right ratio and puffed some smoke out once it lit.
- michaelanthony
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You trapped combustion gases in the stove with your indirect damper. When you stoke the stove with wood/coal you should open the stove to direct daft to allow ignition of those gases and then close "the lever" you speak of when the fire settles in. Can you post pictures of your grates both open and close. To burn coal you need a deep bed of approx 8 inches, I don't see how you can do that in the front of your stove without a fence of steel or cast iron just inside the front door.NJBourne23 wrote: ↑Fri. Dec. 08, 2017 9:49 amRight above the ash box there is a small "level/tab" that you pull when the front door is open to open the grates below. When you close the front door, this auto closes the grates below. There is a lever above the front door, just below the top porcelain piece that allows you to open vents which circulates around the fire box. The air seemed to have moved through the catalyst and then flows around that fire box and exits through the chimney I think. I tried this last night and got it to light and stay lit for a decent period of time. Started it late and didn't want to just leave it fully stocked the whole time. I have to determine all the little nuances and determine how much I can fully stock it, where to set everything once stocked to prevent over heating and obtain optimal air flow. I shut the air off a little too much at one point and when I tried to slowly allow more air in, the inside mixed at just the right ratio and puffed some smoke out once it lit.
- windyhill4.2
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- Coal Size/Type: 404-nut, 520 rice ,anthracite for both
Since anthracite coal needs lots of constant air coming UP thru the grates ,there is NO way that stove is an anthracite burner.NJBourne23 wrote: ↑Fri. Dec. 08, 2017 9:49 amRight above the ash box there is a small "level/tab" that you pull when the front door is open to open the grates below. When you close the front door, this auto closes the grates below.
Coal burner ???
Maybe... BUT, not anthracite coal.
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windyhill4.2 wrote: ↑Fri. Dec. 08, 2017 11:54 amSince anthracite coal needs lots of constant air coming UP thru the grates ,there is NO way that stove is an anthracite burner.
Coal burner ???
Maybe... BUT, not anthracite coal.
after looking at it more closely and posting pics, I think that it has the ability to burn coal (what type or form idk) but we use wood in it. Personally, I thought about coal and said that buying it and storing it isn't what I may want to do. We have a lot of wood and I can get it free so I will stick with that especially since i am not 100% familiar with the stove. The information on the stove is a bit conflicting, this is why I thought it was able to do either or whenever I needed it to but I feel I am wrong based on what you guys have said. It is just very frustrating not having the ability to get accurate info on the stove. The stove looks to be in good shape besides the catalyst cover but knowing exactly how to operate it safely and effectively is what I'm aiming for. Thank you again for all your help and once I am home, I will post pics of the grates open and closed. Thanks
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I have attached more pics in the hops I get some more answers. Any info for this model and make would be helpful. If you need a picture of something specifically, please let me know and I will try to get that for you. The pictures attached are of the air inlet on the front (the grates that you up and close with the level up top in the front. The other two are both the grates open and closed.
Thanks
Thanks
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- windyhill4.2
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In order to burn anthracite coal, there MUST be grates that allow CONSTANT air UP thru the grates.
That stove appears to have an ash dump system.... for burning wood & bituminous coal only.
One would have to love harsh punishment to attempt burning anthracite in that stove.
That stove appears to have an ash dump system.... for burning wood & bituminous coal only.
One would have to love harsh punishment to attempt burning anthracite in that stove.
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windyhill4.2 wrote: ↑Tue. Dec. 12, 2017 1:50 pmIn order to burn anthracite coal, there MUST be grates that allow CONSTANT air UP thru the grates.
That stove appears to have an ash dump system.... for burning wood & bituminous coal only.
One would have to love harsh punishment to attempt burning anthracite in that stove.
Thank you
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Do those grates when clean and in operating position, have slots or openings to the ash area? You obviously have burned coal.
That upper lever appears to be overfire air control.
That upper lever appears to be overfire air control.
- windyhill4.2
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OK, for those who keep saying that this stove can burn anthracite.... EXPLAIN... how can anthracite burn with the "grates" closed ??? ( Close the front door & the grates close.)NJBourne23 wrote: ↑Fri. Dec. 08, 2017 9:49 amRight above the ash box there is a small "level/tab" that you pull when the front door is open to open the grates below. When you close the front door, this auto closes the grates below.
I am ready & willing to learn
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Yes Dave you are correct. It's just hard to see with the grate full of ash. Cleaning all the ash out would confirm if there are any openings from below.
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Hi!
I have been desperately trying to figure out the Efel coal stove that was installed in the house we bought. I just read your comment about using the slicer through the side doors to clear the ashes. I think you may have just solved my very big problem with this stove...that it was going out overnight. I don't think shaking the grates alone was sufficient to clear the ash and create enough airflow to keep the stove going!
How often do you recommend using the slicer to clear the ash? I have put the fire out before from messing with it too much.
Also there are 3 settings for the hopper. I read they are for different sized coals. We are using pea coal. Should we use the setting nearest to the back of the fire, the one that gives you the smallest area for the coal to fall through?
I will be so grateful for any help. I refuse to let this coal stove beat me!!!!! But I need some help!!!
I have been desperately trying to figure out the Efel coal stove that was installed in the house we bought. I just read your comment about using the slicer through the side doors to clear the ashes. I think you may have just solved my very big problem with this stove...that it was going out overnight. I don't think shaking the grates alone was sufficient to clear the ash and create enough airflow to keep the stove going!
How often do you recommend using the slicer to clear the ash? I have put the fire out before from messing with it too much.
Also there are 3 settings for the hopper. I read they are for different sized coals. We are using pea coal. Should we use the setting nearest to the back of the fire, the one that gives you the smallest area for the coal to fall through?
I will be so grateful for any help. I refuse to let this coal stove beat me!!!!! But I need some help!!!