Help Me Identify My Russo Stove

xaos wrote:Here is a copy of my manual from my old Russo C/W 1 stove.

Russo Manual.rar

Nice to see a home inspector pick up on the chimney issue, that is one beautifully picturesque chalet! The chimney should be addressed since its most likely the cause of you fighting the burn (you also probably notice upon starting smoke in the room to some degree)... for coal it would be even worst drafting! bracket/brace and a few more sections is great advice!

his is a CW2 (coal/wood #2) which is larger but this manual will suffice well, its better for coal than wood.

dcrane wrote:

xaos wrote:Here is a copy of my manual from my old Russo C/W 1 stove.

Russo Manual.rar

Nice to see a home inspector pick up on the chimney issue, that is one beautifully picturesque chalet! The chimney should be addressed since its most likely the cause of you fighting the burn (you also probably notice upon starting smoke in the room to some degree)... for coal it would be even worst drafting! bracket/brace and a few more sections is great advice!

his is a CW2 (coal/wood #2) which is larger but this manual will suffice well, its better for coal than wood.

Thanks for identifying the stove. I definitely have some smoke at start up or even when I add a new log to an existing fire. Another thing that got me concerned was the fact that we left this past weekend and we actually smelled the smoke on our clothes.
So when I fix the chimney what type of coal should I look to buy for this type of stove. Where does one even buy coal? I have a lot to learn here!

Again thank you all for the great responses. Will keep you posted on how I fix it and see if it fixes the issues I am experiencing.

Anthracite nut coal, be sure the shaker grates are installed. CO detectors are also a MUST

2001Sierra wrote:Anthracite nut coal, be sure the shaker grates are installed. CO detectors are also a MUST

I have 3 co detectors installed can't be too safe especially with a 4 yr old..
Put one in the loft one in his bedroom and one on the opposite side of the room where the stove is. From what I've read they should be plugged in or mounted low to the floor correct?

[quote="Studiiovette"][quote="2001Sierra"]Anthracite nut coal, be sure the shaker grates are installed. CO detectors are also a MUST [/quote]

I have 3 co detectors installed can't be too safe especially with a 4 yr old..
Put one in the loft one in his bedroom and one on the opposite side of the room where the stove is. From what I've read they should be plugged in or mounted low to the floor correct?[/quote]

A couple yrs ago I worked on a construction site, 11 duplex', the smokes were mounted high as usual but the CO's were mounted 4 to 5 feet up from the floor, I have on in the stove room near the stove 18" up from the floor, but the ones in the bedrooms are 4 ft up on a dresser.

Copied from answers at yahoo.com

Air is a mixture (not combination of basically 2 gases: oxygen (O2)and nitrogen (N) in its molecular form. Carbon monoxide (CO) is a molecule made of 1 carbon atom (6) + 1 oxygen atom (8) = 14. Therefore, CO is heavier than N, which molecular weight is just 7, but slightly lighter than the O2 molecule, that weighs 16.

In my opinion, a CO detector could be placed anywhere at the height of adult human nostrils, since it's a substance easily mixable with air.
Source:
Chemistry classes at high school

Makes sense to me.

Rev. Larry
New Beginning Church
Ashland Pa.

You have to look at your situation and how the air currents will move any CO that leaks from the stove.

CO is only slightly lighter than air, so without any fans, it's the hot convection currents that will disperse it though a space.
http://www.homesafe.com/coalert/detect.htm

I put one in a narrow space between kitchen cabinet soffits that is about 6 feet in front of the coal range, that the hot air from the coal range has to move through because of how the convection currents work in that room. The kitchen is 11 feet wide, but that gap between soffits is only about 5 feet wide. If there is a CO leak from the range, the hot air will bring it right past that detector.

I put another one upstairs, outside my bedroom door, in a hallway at the top of the back stairwell landing. It's the stairs closest to that range. The detector is about 6 feet off the floor. If CO goes up that stairwell, it will be carried up in the warm air traveling uphill in the upper half of the stairwell - not in the cooler air going down-hill in the lower part of the stairwell.

Paul

Sunny Boy wrote:I put another one upstairs, outside my bedroom door, in a hallway at the top of the back stairwell landing. It's the stairs closest to that range. The detector is about 6 feet off the floor. If CO goes up that stairwell, it will be carried up in the warm air traveling uphill in the upper half of the stairwell - not in the cooler air going down-hill in the lower part of the stairwell.

I agree.. They need to be where there is NO possibility of sleeping thru an alarm. Eventually CO will distribute evenly thru the stratification layers in your house by convection but, better to find it sooner than later.

buffalo bob wrote:wow beautiful cabin welcome to coal. post ur location on ur profile nobody will steal ur stove lol me thinks that wood was burned in that stove if it is /glass/ black and gunky get a razor blade scraper and work on the glass thats what I do when I burn wood in my hitzer..yea chim is too low...

Razor sure worked great!!

I have the same stove...a Russo #2CW. A really nice burning coal stove. The blower does make a world of difference. I have mine set up as the manual showed, with a barometric damper and manometer installed. Works like a charm!

Sounds like the guy who had it before you was burning wood if the glass was black. My window stays nice & clear running the coal. I cleaned the glass with Rutland cleaner made for the task. Worked great! Best of luck with that stove.

-Dave

So I was told by one reputable professional in the area that I need 12' of pipe to be at code but that would require scaffolding and he has no idea what brand the pipe is since it has no markings. So he would need to remove some siding to get to the piping behind the siding. He quoted me around $1700-2000 depending on that. I am definitely not able to do that nor do I want to add 12' of piping. It would look ridiculous.
So I spoke to my neighbor and he mentioned to call my insurance co and the county to see what they say. My insurance co said they have no preference and cannot comment on code but as long as they have my stove info I am covered.
Will removing the cap possibly give me a better idea of type of piping and possibly brand?
Also would adding another length or 2 be sufficient in solving my issues? Obviously anything will be better then what I have now. My neighbor is willing to help me add a few more feet and brace the pipe.

Studiiovette wrote:So I was told by one reputable professional in the area that I need 12' of pipe to be at code but that would require scaffolding and he has no idea what brand the pipe is since it has no markings. So he would need to remove some siding to get to the piping behind the siding. He quoted me around $1700-2000 depending on that. I am definitely not able to do that nor do I want to add 12' of piping. It would look ridiculous.
So I spoke to my neighbor and he mentioned to call my insurance co and the county to see what they say. My insurance co said they have no preference and cannot comment on code but as long as they have my stove info I am covered.
Will removing the cap possibly give me a better idea of type of piping and possibly brand?
Also would adding another length or 2 be sufficient in solving my issues? Obviously anything will be better then what I have now. My neighbor is willing to help me add a few more feet and brace the pipe.

Did he say 12 feet total height, or 12 feet more than you already have. ?

Yes, anything you can add to the height should help the draft, but the more pipe the better the draft should be. I'd say, at least two more sections, three if you can do that with help.

Paul

His recommendation was 12" total

Good - your already about 1/4 of the way there.

I think that if you could get at least two - better three - more sections on like you have, your draft will greatly improve.

Paul

Finally got this done. Can't wait to test it out. Hoping we get a really cold night so I can light the stove up.