Godin Stove Coal Not "Settling"

 
djackman
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Post by djackman » Mon. Jan. 28, 2008 11:15 pm

godinfan wrote: Anyway, if anybody knows of any place that sells parts for these stoves I sure would like to know. I don't need any parts at this time (5 years of trouble free operation) but I figure that someday I might need a new mica window or ??? so it's good to know ahead of time before the need arises.
If you ever do let me know... one of the mica windows on mine is cracked. Since this is a basement stove I don't really care about appearance and just patched it over with furnace cement.

The other windows are so cloudy you can hardly see when live coals start to fall thru shaker grate.


 
blackwood
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Post by blackwood » Tue. Feb. 12, 2008 5:33 pm

I replaced the mica on my godin with thin galvanized sheet stock.
Works great although cannot see the glow.

 
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Dallas
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Post by Dallas » Tue. Feb. 12, 2008 5:44 pm


 
Truesdale
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Post by Truesdale » Sun. Feb. 17, 2008 1:39 pm

I have been burning a Godin Grand Round coal stove for three years. I bought it used from the original owner who purchased it and used it for twenty five years. I replaced the door seal and the mica in the door, other than that I haven’t done anything to it. I am heating a 2000 square foot house that has an open cathedral ceiling living room area. The stove is in the kitchen because that is where I had flue access. The kitchen, dining area and living room are all open so the air moves easily. A ceiling fan in the living room helps move the heat a well.
I use three tons of nut coal a year and it is almost enough to get me through the whole season. On the shoulders of the heating season I burn wood in it, or us my Monitor. So, basically I am heating our Adirondack mountain home with about $715 of coal a year, with a less than a cord of hard wood on top of it.
The parts I bought were from a company in Canada. I had to call them as their website is not set up to order Godin parts from directly. You can check out their website at: http://www.drolet.ca
It took me a while to learn how to burn the stove having been “raised” on burning wood. Basically, you start the stove with wood and as some coals start to build up, pour in about quart of coal. I leave the door open a bit to increase the draft. You could shut the door and open the draft nob, but then you have to turn it down again when the coal gets burning so as not to over heat the stove. When the coal/wood mixture really takes off, I add about another quart or two of coal, wait about 10 minutes for it to get roaring, then I fill the stove up about 3/4 of the way to the stove pipe. I only have one exhaust pipe on the back of my stove. I then close the door and let it cook. Before going to bed at night I add more coal to bring it up to the 3/4 level again.
I have not found shaking the grate to be of much use. Sometime I do it, but as others have mentioned, the clinkers/ash build up. Every morning, before adding more coal. I open the door, open the grate and gently shovel the ash and clinkers out until I start to see and hear the ashes start to drop down. Basically I create a void in the stove above the grate and below the burning coal. Once I see the ash starting to cave in, or I see the glow of the burning coal, I stop. I ALWAYS wear a fireplace glove on my “weak hand” as I shovel with my other hand. Be very careful doing this as sometimes if you try for one more shovel full of ash, you will get a cave in where got coal drops down and may roll out the front of the stove - not a good thing.
After shoveling the ash and cleaning up with a whisk broom and a dust pan, I then add the fresh coal on top of the burning coal left over from last night. I usually don’t touch it again until the evening before bed when I top it off again.

 
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Devil505
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Post by Devil505 » Sun. Feb. 17, 2008 3:27 pm

I have found that this problem ( I think it's called bridging) is very coal quality dependant. Whem I use Blaschak I get very little bridging & the coal bed falls by itself with just shaking. On the other hand, I have been trying another type of (nut) coal that has to be poked quite a bit for it to fall. If I don't poke it I am just shaking down air with no coal bed movement at all.

 
djackman
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Post by djackman » Mon. Feb. 18, 2008 1:27 am

Truesdale wrote:Be very careful doing this as sometimes if you try for one more shovel full of ash, you will get a cave in where got coal drops down and may roll out the front of the stove - not a good thing.
About the same as I do with my Petite Godin - running it for a month now I too have gotten good at knowing when to stop to avoid a "cave in". :D I usually shake it down first, then clean out what won't break up. Less mess.

Only thing I add is that after grate cleanout, a few pokes with a 3/16" rod from the top down between the firebrick and coal gets everything to drop without messing up the burn. Then shake it down a few times over the next hour if possible to clear the remaining ash. The "stickiness" is worse when it's been damped down all day (it's 53deg out right now).

Been burning Blaschak nut, and some coal that was sitting in friend's basement since oil burner was installed in 1955. Not much difference. Got a good laugh when friend said "you can have it, but it's OLD". Bag of Reading didn't burn as well.

 
HarpersFerryGodinFan
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Post by HarpersFerryGodinFan » Fri. Jul. 18, 2008 6:15 pm

The only place I've been able to find parts for the Godin is Canada. There used to be a Godin dealer in Massachusetts, but it's been a few years since they went out of business. I got new fire brick and a new lintel from the Canadian outfit in Quebec, and then found they'd given me the fire brick for the wrong size stove (I have a petit oval and they gave me the brick for the large oval), so I had to make a quick run up to Montreal and get the right size.

I also love my Godin stoves. I use the petit oval to heat my house in Harpers Ferry WV. I have a small round one for my workshop, but it rarely gets used. I also have a little coal stove from a caboose in my kitchen for the days when it gets down in the teens.

Christy


 
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coal berner
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Post by coal berner » Fri. Jul. 18, 2008 6:42 pm

djackman wrote:
Truesdale wrote:Be very careful doing this as sometimes if you try for one more shovel full of ash, you will get a cave in where got coal drops down and may roll out the front of the stove - not a good thing.
About the same as I do with my Petite Godin - running it for a month now I too have gotten good at knowing when to stop to avoid a "cave in". :D I usually shake it down first, then clean out what won't break up. Less mess.

Only thing I add is that after grate cleanout, a few pokes with a 3/16" rod from the top down between the firebrick and coal gets everything to drop without messing up the burn. Then shake it down a few times over the next hour if possible to clear the remaining ash. The "stickiness" is worse when it's been damped down all day (it's 53deg out right now).

Been burning Blaschak nut, and some coal that was sitting in friend's basement since oil burner was installed in 1955. Not much difference. Got a good laugh when friend said "you can have it, but it's OLD". Bag of Reading didn't burn as well.


Here are a few Places where you can get Parts for you stove

http://www.woodmanspartsplus.com/68/catalogs/Wood ... rence.html

http://www.hearthstove.com/catalog.html

 
HarpersFerryGodinFan
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Post by HarpersFerryGodinFan » Tue. Aug. 05, 2008 10:48 am

The detailed information on where I found the stove parts I needed is on this page:
http://www.drolet.ca/replacement-parts.aspx

The other places listed don't carry very many items for the Godin stoves. Inventex imports what you need from France. It's very expensive with the weak dollar....

 
mcosey
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Post by mcosey » Fri. Aug. 29, 2008 8:12 am

Great site here. I am going out to look at a Godin Ovale Petit this evening and most likely will be buying it. I have been using a woodstove as my sole source of heat for eight years and am looking to to simplify my life a bit (I'm a single mom). I am tired of the stacking and lugging chunks of wood around as well as having to rush home or get up during the night to put wood in. And then there is the mess.
I live off the grid, in between the Adirondacks of NY and the Greens of VT, so the winters are long and cold. An auger driven stove is not an option for me due to the power usage. I appreciate the tips here as I am sure there is a learning curve involved. After reading here, I am convinced this is the right move. I do have a few questions. I am assuming most of you have previously burned wood. I was told that one ton is approximately equal to two cords. Does this hold true? Also, on other websites I saw reference to the fact that you can also burn wood in this stove and that I may want to consider doing so in the milder seasons when less heat is needed. Does anyone do this (using this particular stove) and is there anything I should know when it comes to switching back and forth?
I can't think of anything else right now, after I get it and play with it a bit, I will probably have more questions.
While digging around with searches, I found a link to an owners manual for Godin Stoves. Here it is is anyone wants it.

http://www.rural-energy.com/publications/catalog/ ... nt-242.pdf

 
2kingcharles
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Post by 2kingcharles » Wed. Sep. 24, 2008 5:30 pm

I just happened upon a site with Godin parts. It's . Hope that helps. I have just agreed to purchase an oval one from neighbors. Used one years ago, a little exciting & never quite got the hang of it. Determined this time.
Last edited by 2kingcharles on Sat. Apr. 01, 2017 12:14 am, edited 2 times in total.
Reason: <removed dead link>

 
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Cap
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Post by Cap » Wed. Sep. 24, 2008 7:02 pm

I bought a Godin this past summer but it appears it will not work out on my 2nd flue. Selling it. But I did test this sucker. I was able to hold a coal fire with the unit place outdoors in my driveway with 90F ambient temps. No chimney. These units seem to work well. Its unusual but seems to be efficient or effective.

 
pauline
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Post by pauline » Mon. Sep. 29, 2008 11:11 pm

Great site- we used a petit godin to heat our apartment when we lived in Germany in 1980. It was a great stove, burned wood as well as 'briquets' (pressed coal dust from what I could make out!) We burned waste wood scraps and ends of logs, the stove was pleased with anything combustible. Very efficient and clean. The funny looking double connection on the back is a catalytic burner to reburn combustion gases, makes it cleaner and more efficient. We have lugged the thing around with us and are actually planning to reinstall this stove in our new house here in Ontario. We have model 3720 which looks exactly like the 3730. We have been told that our stove model was CSA approved, but how do we go about finding this info? Any ideas appreciated. Pauline

 
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Cap
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Post by Cap » Wed. Oct. 01, 2008 10:26 pm

Pauline,
I found the attached .pdf floating out on the web. Not much more available. Unless you go across the pond and chase down this guy.
Good luck and stay warm.
http://www.stovefinders.com/Index.html
document-242.pdf
.PDF | 199KB | document-242.pdf

 
Jackson
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Post by Jackson » Sat. Oct. 04, 2008 1:06 pm

where can I buy coal on Long Island, NY All my previous sources don't carry it anymore


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