hi there grady here
like to know if anyone knows about running stove without hopper lower or upper
if ok how to load up and to burn for over nite?during day during work hrs?
how much hopper on order
Franco Belge Model # 10.1475
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winstonsmith
- New Member
- Posts: 15
- Joined: Sat. Dec. 29, 2007 1:13 am
- Location: Bloomsbury, NJ
Are you talking about the Hopper plate that is in the center of the hopper that diverts the coal to the rear of the stove? If that is what you mean I would not advise it. You should be able to run your franco about10-12 hours before it goes out. I run mine 24/7 from october to april.
WS
WS
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JiminBucks
- Member
- Posts: 131
- Joined: Tue. Oct. 23, 2007 11:21 am
- Location: Upper Bucks Co. PA
I had to move my hopper from the lower setting up two notches for it to burn better/longer. Keep the hopper plate in there for Gods sake! I have a Normandie model mid 80's
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JerseyCoal
- Member
- Posts: 179
- Joined: Thu. Dec. 07, 2006 9:13 pm
- Location: Delaware, formerly Basking Ridge, NJ
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Franco Belge model 10.1475
Hi All:
The problem is that Grady's lower hopper bar is so badly warped that it allows coal to drop on and smother most of the firebasket. The thought was that maybe the hopper could be completely removed and the stove could be run as if it did not have a hopper. Coal would be shovelled in after each shake-down and banked as needed.
My biggest concern was that the exhaust gas would have easier acces to the top of the stove where the filler cap is. However, if the cap has a good gasket, it should seal in the CO gas. Even with the hopper in, I'm sure some CO gas is in the hopper, it just has to filter its way up though the coal in the hopper, just as combustion air filters its way up through the coal in the fire basket.
As long as you have a good gasket on the filler cap and you have working CO detectors in the home, I would give it a shot until your new lower hopper bar comes in.
The problem is that Grady's lower hopper bar is so badly warped that it allows coal to drop on and smother most of the firebasket. The thought was that maybe the hopper could be completely removed and the stove could be run as if it did not have a hopper. Coal would be shovelled in after each shake-down and banked as needed.
My biggest concern was that the exhaust gas would have easier acces to the top of the stove where the filler cap is. However, if the cap has a good gasket, it should seal in the CO gas. Even with the hopper in, I'm sure some CO gas is in the hopper, it just has to filter its way up though the coal in the hopper, just as combustion air filters its way up through the coal in the fire basket.
As long as you have a good gasket on the filler cap and you have working CO detectors in the home, I would give it a shot until your new lower hopper bar comes in.