Getting Gretel Going...Green Jotul507
- Poconoeagle
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- Joined: Sat. Nov. 08, 2008 7:26 pm
- Location: Tobyhanna PA
Well here goes yet another project
So, since shes made in norway, and shes green......what better name than Gretel???
moved some things and placed some durarock around to get a feel for the looks and distances
day 1
So, since shes made in norway, and shes green......what better name than Gretel???
moved some things and placed some durarock around to get a feel for the looks and distances
day 1
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- Poconoeagle
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- Location: Tobyhanna PA
Yahh you betcha!!
gonna seek a stone to put her on (pedestal) to lift her up bout four inches tomorrow.
tossing around the copper cladding of the rock and base. maybe some stone or tile for floor...
figure im gonna get the hole thru and chimney up, get her burning good and hot, and check some temps around her to see just how much heat shielding is really needed before cladding anything. copper ain't cheap anymore
gonna seek a stone to put her on (pedestal) to lift her up bout four inches tomorrow.
tossing around the copper cladding of the rock and base. maybe some stone or tile for floor...
figure im gonna get the hole thru and chimney up, get her burning good and hot, and check some temps around her to see just how much heat shielding is really needed before cladding anything. copper ain't cheap anymore
- wsherrick
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- Joined: Wed. Jun. 18, 2008 6:04 am
- Location: High In The Poconos
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Glenwood Base Heater, Crawford Base Heater
- Baseburners & Antiques: Crawford Base Heater, Glenwood, Stanley Argand
- Coal Size/Type: Chestnut, Stove Size
Gretel is a perfect name for the stove. I can't think of a better one than that.
By the way, I would like to see a picture of your Glenwood. It would be neat to see it.
By the way, I would like to see a picture of your Glenwood. It would be neat to see it.
- the snowman
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- Posts: 611
- Joined: Mon. Sep. 29, 2008 10:38 pm
- Location: upstate NY Tug Hill area
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Jotul 507
- Coal Size/Type: Nut, Stove coal, Egg coal
Poconoeagle:
I have one of my Jotul's (red one) located in my kitchen as well. I didn't place anything behind the stove on the wall. I have my Jotul twenty inches from the wall and the pipe (single wall black stove pipe) is only eleven inches from the wall. What I did was make a shield that I attached to the entire length of the vertical pipe and I made a shield that is free standing the height of the stove which is also the width of the stove and placed it behind the stove (six inches). Since the shield behind the stove is the same width as the stove and terminates just under the stove pipe exiting the stove, it is almost unnoticeable. You could paint the shield green to further blend it in with the stove. You have to look at the stove from the side to notice the heat shield. The shield for the pipe I took black stove pipe and cut it down the middle length wise and made brackets on the shield to attach it to the stove pipe with water pipe clamps which I painted black. I have tested the stove up to a temp of 750 F and the wall behind the pipe and stove never gets any hotter than 80 F. That isn't bad considering the house is at a constant 78 F. Since I never push this stove above 500 F it works great. This is all without a fan running to move heat away from the stove. As for under the stove, I took durarock and attached it to a wooden hearth. On the durarock I took sheet rock mud and made the surface as smooth as glass and then painted it and sealed the paint with high gloss polyurthane. The hearth is always cold as ice. At 750 F the shield attached to the pipe will get very warm, however, the wall behind the shield has never gotten above 80F. This is just how I have my setup. This is the second year for this stove in this location with this setup. This is just my two cents.
The snowman.
I have one of my Jotul's (red one) located in my kitchen as well. I didn't place anything behind the stove on the wall. I have my Jotul twenty inches from the wall and the pipe (single wall black stove pipe) is only eleven inches from the wall. What I did was make a shield that I attached to the entire length of the vertical pipe and I made a shield that is free standing the height of the stove which is also the width of the stove and placed it behind the stove (six inches). Since the shield behind the stove is the same width as the stove and terminates just under the stove pipe exiting the stove, it is almost unnoticeable. You could paint the shield green to further blend it in with the stove. You have to look at the stove from the side to notice the heat shield. The shield for the pipe I took black stove pipe and cut it down the middle length wise and made brackets on the shield to attach it to the stove pipe with water pipe clamps which I painted black. I have tested the stove up to a temp of 750 F and the wall behind the pipe and stove never gets any hotter than 80 F. That isn't bad considering the house is at a constant 78 F. Since I never push this stove above 500 F it works great. This is all without a fan running to move heat away from the stove. As for under the stove, I took durarock and attached it to a wooden hearth. On the durarock I took sheet rock mud and made the surface as smooth as glass and then painted it and sealed the paint with high gloss polyurthane. The hearth is always cold as ice. At 750 F the shield attached to the pipe will get very warm, however, the wall behind the shield has never gotten above 80F. This is just how I have my setup. This is the second year for this stove in this location with this setup. This is just my two cents.
The snowman.
- Poconoeagle
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Thank you Snowman for your two cents! worth much more than that. I will take the pipe shield advise and give it a whirl.
I did a similar shield thing in another house and used the tin cover side from an old boiler painted flat black. stood it on a row of fire brick that had holes cast in them. it worked great and was mostly invisible.
I think part of this one is to make a focal point of Gretel and thus the copper clad durarock might be the ticket.
due to the compactness of the kitchen area my distance to the wall is about 15" for the stove and 6" for the pipe, thus the burn test will determine if its safely
practical for my idea.
I would like to see a pic of your pipe shield. did you rivit the pipe straps or screw them?
I did a similar shield thing in another house and used the tin cover side from an old boiler painted flat black. stood it on a row of fire brick that had holes cast in them. it worked great and was mostly invisible.
I think part of this one is to make a focal point of Gretel and thus the copper clad durarock might be the ticket.
due to the compactness of the kitchen area my distance to the wall is about 15" for the stove and 6" for the pipe, thus the burn test will determine if its safely
practical for my idea.
I would like to see a pic of your pipe shield. did you rivit the pipe straps or screw them?
- the snowman
- Member
- Posts: 611
- Joined: Mon. Sep. 29, 2008 10:38 pm
- Location: upstate NY Tug Hill area
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Jotul 507
- Coal Size/Type: Nut, Stove coal, Egg coal
poconoeagle:
I will try to get some pics of my setup this weekend. As for the heat shield on the pipe. I took the two halves of pipe and pop riveted them together. I made a jig to spread the stove pipe to the right arch. Both halves were made to the same arch. In the pics I will post you will be able to further understand what I'm saying. It sounds confusing as I am writing this. I put the ends together as you would pipe (meaning the crimped end slid into the non crimped end). This formed a continuous six foot long shield. The brackets I pop riveted to the inside of the heat shield. The brackets keep the shield one inch away from the stove pipe. The brackets also are formed to accept the water pipe clamps that hold the shield on the stove pipe. The brackets, rivets, and clamps were painted with black high temp paint so they would blend in. To give the shield edges a more refined look and to protect from any sharp edge, you can take high temp automotive vacuum hose and split the one side and slide it on the pipe to cover the edge. This can be done to both side of the pipe. I have the hose, however, I have yet to install it on the pipe. Oh, nice stove! The 507 you have has the nice draft control unlike the 507b. I prefer the draft control on my 507 over the 507b due to the fact the one on the 507b will change its setting when you are shaking down the stove and you have to close it and set it back to your desired draft setting. On the 507 once you turn the dial to your desired draft setting, it doesn't move. Also, I see you have your temp gauge on the middle door. I take my reading from the top door due to the fact the top door is the most unprotected. The middle door has a cast plate plus the cast insert behind the door where the top door does not. I have rambled enough. Again, I will try to post some pics this weekend.
The snowman.
I will try to get some pics of my setup this weekend. As for the heat shield on the pipe. I took the two halves of pipe and pop riveted them together. I made a jig to spread the stove pipe to the right arch. Both halves were made to the same arch. In the pics I will post you will be able to further understand what I'm saying. It sounds confusing as I am writing this. I put the ends together as you would pipe (meaning the crimped end slid into the non crimped end). This formed a continuous six foot long shield. The brackets I pop riveted to the inside of the heat shield. The brackets keep the shield one inch away from the stove pipe. The brackets also are formed to accept the water pipe clamps that hold the shield on the stove pipe. The brackets, rivets, and clamps were painted with black high temp paint so they would blend in. To give the shield edges a more refined look and to protect from any sharp edge, you can take high temp automotive vacuum hose and split the one side and slide it on the pipe to cover the edge. This can be done to both side of the pipe. I have the hose, however, I have yet to install it on the pipe. Oh, nice stove! The 507 you have has the nice draft control unlike the 507b. I prefer the draft control on my 507 over the 507b due to the fact the one on the 507b will change its setting when you are shaking down the stove and you have to close it and set it back to your desired draft setting. On the 507 once you turn the dial to your desired draft setting, it doesn't move. Also, I see you have your temp gauge on the middle door. I take my reading from the top door due to the fact the top door is the most unprotected. The middle door has a cast plate plus the cast insert behind the door where the top door does not. I have rambled enough. Again, I will try to post some pics this weekend.
The snowman.
- coalkirk
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- Location: Forest Hill MD
- Stoker Coal Boiler: 1981 EFM DF520 retired
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quote="PC 12-47E"]This week I am going to fire up the 507 trio..... [/quote]
Wow! That's a Jotul 1521!!!
I'm starting to miss Gretel. Glad she went to a good home.
Wow! That's a Jotul 1521!!!
I'm starting to miss Gretel. Glad she went to a good home.
- Poconoeagle
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- Location: Tobyhanna PA
Well after planning some underhouse insulating tasks for today, a text message from a buddy at the supply house for masonary outdoor landscape material changed the plan and thus the pedastal for Gretel came home.
A couple tweeks on my buddy's subaru got a nice spare ash pan/shovel out of it also!
A couple tweeks on my buddy's subaru got a nice spare ash pan/shovel out of it also!
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- Poconoeagle
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The thing about the base for Gretel is its ability to keep the 100 year old oilcloth ( linoleum) down and flat...
Its blue slate with a cool touch of color that God added - Poconoeagle
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Moving it was fun! definitly over 200# my buddy couldnt hold it very long so the little dolly was a backsaver!
- Poconoeagle
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Naturally the 12x12 armstrong self stick floor tiles were equally fun to get up and the adhesive could teach barnacles something about sticking!