Guidance for a novice

 
cuttingback
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Post by cuttingback » Wed. Oct. 26, 2022 12:50 pm

McGiever wrote:
Wed. Oct. 26, 2022 12:22 pm
Closing the wrong valve and it is no longer an “open to atmospheric pressure system”.

Open system boils at 212*F
Closed system boils at accordingly higher temperatures.

I’d want a 30 psi pressure relief valve in system somewhere where could never be valved off. This will save from a catastrophic event.

On a side…with open system there is the water chemistry that needs monitoring to abate rust eating through vessel at some point. Don’t ignore this.
Yes, Heatmaster has us send water samples in once a year to be tested.

 
waytomany?s
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Post by waytomany?s » Wed. Oct. 26, 2022 2:50 pm

McGiever wrote:
Wed. Oct. 26, 2022 12:22 pm
Closing the wrong valve and it is no longer an “open to atmospheric pressure system”.

Open system boils at 212*F
Closed system boils at accordingly higher temperatures.

I’d want a 30 psi pressure relief valve in system somewhere where could never be valved off. This will save from a catastrophic event.

On a side…with open system there is the water chemistry that needs monitoring to abate rust eating through vessel at some point. Don’t ignore this.
It's open. No valve to close. Hence the term open. Several wood boiler s are set up this way. My FIL setup had an inner tube off of the fill so you could watch expansion and it could pop and blow off if pressure got high.

 
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McGiever
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Post by McGiever » Wed. Oct. 26, 2022 10:44 pm

waytomany?s wrote:
Wed. Oct. 26, 2022 2:50 pm
It's open. No valve to close. Hence the term open. Several wood boiler s are set up this way. My FIL setup had an inner tube off of the fill so you could watch expansion and it could pop and blow off if pressure got high.
Many an open system had exploded with improper valve position and lacking a blow off was my point.
Are you qualified to say no valve there??

 
Coalblooded
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Post by Coalblooded » Thu. Oct. 27, 2022 12:47 am

Im also from southern ohio, and a place for blashak nut 8 dollars a bag is yoders greenhouse in wellston and for ky lump or stove would be bramhi coal in wellston 130 a ton for lump and im not sure about the stove coal. Hope this helps the people looking for coal around me


 
waytomany?s
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Post by waytomany?s » Thu. Oct. 27, 2022 7:19 am

McGiever wrote:
Wed. Oct. 26, 2022 10:44 pm
Many an open system had exploded with improper valve position and lacking a blow off was my point.
Are you qualified to say no valve there??
Are you? Owned one? Looked up specs? :annoyed:

 
larryfoster
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Post by larryfoster » Sat. Nov. 19, 2022 10:39 am

Trying to teach my 31 YO son to help tend my furnace.
I tell him that the coal in the coal bin makes no heat.
I fill mine up to the top of the bricks.

But that advice is for my furnace.
I know nothing about yours

 
CIA
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Post by CIA » Wed. Dec. 07, 2022 8:12 am

larryfoster wrote:
Sat. Nov. 19, 2022 10:39 am
Trying to teach my 31 YO son to help tend my furnace.
I tell him that the coal in the coal bin makes no heat.
I fill mine up to the top of the bricks.

But that advice is for my furnace.
I know nothing about yours
I had a closed system coal boiler as a kid. I took care of it daily at 10 years old. I find it hard to believe grown ass men 35 years later cant keep coal burning.
I WAS A KID.
Throw a *censored* load of coal inside, shake the grate, turn on the fan. When temp rises, turn fan off. Its that simple.
Our fire burned from Thanksgiving to Easter and only went out if we wanted it to.
I really dont understand what is so complicated, fire needs 3 things....air, fuel, and heat. Thats all there is to it.
Each stove is a little different, but in regards to this thread, it sounds like "the new guy" was not properly schooled by the salesman. Big surprise.
Fire is not hard, coal should not die in that boiler, fire only needs 3 things.....thats your clue.

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