Thermostat works the opposite way of what I need
Hello everyone, this is my first post, and I'm not an expert.
I have a condensation problem in my coal stove, and want to install a thermostat that basically turns off the pump, when the temperature is UNDER a certain degree.
As you may imagine, what happened is that this thermostat I've bought and installed (placed on the hot water pipe) turns off the pump ABOVE a certain temperature.
Is there anything I can do to savage the situation (with the wiring inside the thermostat), or what should I buy instead?
extra info:
I am an expat located in Kazakhstan so what I have available here is local/for the russian market and naming of product not straightforward.
My stove is a "Prometey" model, just installed after an accident with my old one. I like it so far except for the condensation problem, and the fact that it keeps circulating water when the fire dies off, something that I'd like to precisely remedy with the thermostat.
I have a condensation problem in my coal stove, and want to install a thermostat that basically turns off the pump, when the temperature is UNDER a certain degree.
As you may imagine, what happened is that this thermostat I've bought and installed (placed on the hot water pipe) turns off the pump ABOVE a certain temperature.
Is there anything I can do to savage the situation (with the wiring inside the thermostat), or what should I buy instead?
extra info:
I am an expat located in Kazakhstan so what I have available here is local/for the russian market and naming of product not straightforward.
My stove is a "Prometey" model, just installed after an accident with my old one. I like it so far except for the condensation problem, and the fact that it keeps circulating water when the fire dies off, something that I'd like to precisely remedy with the thermostat.
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IF you cannot get a unit that works in the way you need, perhaps you can get a simple relay that will change the functionality of the unit. I used relays to make my Rube Goldberg boiler work in Maine. And I shut it off on low temp also and allowed the gas boiler to fire.
Kevin
Kevin
- lsayre
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What you need is a "Normally Open" (NO) aquastat or thermostat switch with "Close On Rise" and a 10 degree "differential". One that "closes" and completes the circuit (and thereby turns on the circulator pump) at 50 degrees C., and "opens" to break the circuit at anything below 40 degrees C.
As mentioned above a relay can be used to reverse the functioning of the switch you already have, or also as mentioned above, your switch may already have both 'NO' (Normally Open) and 'NC' (Normally Closed) contacts.
As mentioned above a relay can be used to reverse the functioning of the switch you already have, or also as mentioned above, your switch may already have both 'NO' (Normally Open) and 'NC' (Normally Closed) contacts.
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What you want is a reverse aquastat which is intended for the problem you have. If you can get Honeywell controls there will be a B rather than an A in the model name. Google "reverse aquastat".
Thank you everyone for the useful and quick replies!
here are two pictures:
the thermostat on the hot water pipe
and the diagram included in the box.
as per the diagram, I connected input in C, output in 1 and earth. I tried to put both ends of the other wire in 2, but it hit the breaker so I just tied them together. I thought maybe I could use 2 to somehow reverse the system? (this is how much of a newbie I am to this!)
The thermostat has a reset button, I haven't tried it yet.
here are two pictures:
the thermostat on the hot water pipe
and the diagram included in the box.
as per the diagram, I connected input in C, output in 1 and earth. I tried to put both ends of the other wire in 2, but it hit the breaker so I just tied them together. I thought maybe I could use 2 to somehow reverse the system? (this is how much of a newbie I am to this!)
The thermostat has a reset button, I haven't tried it yet.
I can look for an aquastat, but it may prove difficult. The variety of products here in KZ is very limited and buying off the internet (Aliexpress) takes months. That's why I was hoping I could do something to get this one to work the way I want.
Also, is the aquastat something I can similarly install without having to dismantle any part of the system?
Also, is the aquastat something I can similarly install without having to dismantle any part of the system?
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- Hand Fed Coal Stove: V ermont Castings 2310, Franco Belge 262
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood Modern Oak 114
- Coal Size/Type: nut and pea
Look for a plumbing supply house. You simply connect the hot wire going to the circulator pump to one contact and the other contact to the pump. The ground or earth wire just goes right through, no interruption.
The control breaks the circuit when the temperature drops below the set point.
There are strap on models if there is no place to install the well for the sensing probe.
The control breaks the circuit when the temperature drops below the set point.
There are strap on models if there is no place to install the well for the sensing probe.
Thank you, I will look for it! For starters, I'll bring this piece back to the guys who sold it to me telling me it would precisely do what I wanted.))franco b wrote: ↑Thu. Dec. 24, 2020 9:16 amLook for a plumbing supply house. You simply connect the hot wire going to the circulator pump to one contact and the other contact to the pump. The ground or earth wire just goes right through, no interruption.
The control breaks the circuit when the temperature drops below the set point.
There are strap on models if there is no place to install the well for the sensing probe.
This did the trick. The thermostat is now working as I intended it. Thank you! Time will tell if this helps with condensation and the general performance of the system (there is probably some fine tuning to be made between the therm-regulator and the thermostat, that have different response timeframes), but for now I can go to bed satisfied.
Merry Christmas, Happy holidays, everyone.